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Thread: outside shower hookup to house supply

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member rxnet's Avatar
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    Default outside shower hookup to house supply

    Trying to get suggestions on hooking up an outdoor shower with hot/cold supply lines. The shower has 1/2 inch MIPS and the current supply lines are standard 1/2" copper. My design was to use stainless flex supply lines from the shower through the wall and into the crawl space attaching to CPVC lines with shutoff valves and from there tie into the copper house supply lines using compression T's. In the winter, this would allow me to shut off the water supply to the shower, unscrew the stainless supply lines under the house , and pull off the shower head to store for the winter. (the shower head is 4ft wall mounted). If this would work , I'm not sure which fittings and what size fittings,pipe, adapters,valves, etc.. I would need to complete the run from the compression T to the 1/2" shower MIPS. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

    walt

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member rxnet's Avatar
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    would this work (I'm trying to avoid soldering) shower 1/2 mips > 30" 1/2"FIPS x 1/2" FIPS stainless steel flex connector > (metal male adapter) 1/2" MIPS Brass with 1/2" CPVC slip > 1/2" CPVC pipe > 1/2" CPVC ball valve > 1/2" CPVC pipe > (metal male adapter) 1/2" CPVC slip with 1/2" MIPS brass > 1/2" Reg female adapter 1/2" FIPS x C > compression T > supply lines 1/2" copper tubing ??

  3. #3
    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxnet View Post
    would this work (I'm trying to avoid soldering) shower 1/2 mips > 30" 1/2"FIPS x 1/2" FIPS stainless steel flex connector > (metal male adapter) 1/2" MIPS Brass with 1/2" CPVC slip > 1/2" CPVC pipe > 1/2" CPVC ball valve > 1/2" CPVC pipe > (metal male adapter) 1/2" CPVC slip with 1/2" MIPS brass > 1/2" Reg female adapter 1/2" FIPS x C > compression T > supply lines 1/2" copper tubing ??
    We like pictures....

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member rxnet's Avatar
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    Default pics

    here are the pics...stainless flex > cpvc/brass fitting > 1/2" CPVC > ball valve > 1/2 cPVC > cpvc/brass fitting > copper fitting > compression T
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  5. #5
    DIY Member wallskev's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Double Vlave less prone to issues

    I have a outdoor shower system that drains etc and feel it would be better not to use the Braided Flex and have to disconnect them etc.

    1. Use Pex in place of CPVC, easer and less trouble
    2. Utize a Double Drain Valve system, 1 to shut off flow and 1 to use as Drain.

    I use ball valves and have my drain do direct to a sump . Keep a pitch on the lines from the "T" connection to the Shower Vlaves and you will alwas have a good winter drain.

    Kevin
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    Kevin

  6. #6
    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxnet View Post
    here are the pics...stainless flex > cpvc/brass fitting > 1/2" CPVC > ball valve > 1/2 cPVC > cpvc/brass fitting > copper fitting > compression T
    Ummmm I meant pictures of where you want to install this stuff... not of the fittings.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member rxnet's Avatar
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    kevin

    are the chances pretty small that the pex would freeze between the main and first ball valve with that set-up?

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member rxnet's Avatar
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    after reading the thread I'm going with the PEX ....I'll set it up as in kevins diagram above..my only question..... would I be able to connect a 1/2" male NPT fitting to a 1/2" FIP fitting and what would I use to seal it??...sorry , newbie here just trying to learn and save a little cash. thanks for the help!!
    Last edited by rxnet; 06-06-2010 at 09:48 PM.

  9. #9
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    I usually stop calling it an outside shower.
    It helps with code requirements that drive up the cost substantially... IE pressure balancing and drainage...
    I install a Moen HC Frostproof hose bibb and leave it to the customer to install a washing machine hose connecting to a showerhead.
    As long as they disconnect the hose at the end of the season there is no freezing problem...
    The Moen will not deliver full hot but it is a very comfy beach shower as most are cold only...

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member rxnet's Avatar
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    can you explain the pressure balancing??

  11. #11
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    All showers in the US require anti-scald technology. If the installation is going to be inspected, you need a proper shower valve with that technology in it. A pressure balanced valve is one way that you can achieve that. It means that if the pressure (and usually the volume) changes on one side (say someone flushes a toilet), that could change the outlet pressure and therefore the temperature (hotter!). A pressure balanced valve adjusts the flow (because of the pressure change) so the flow rates from both sides remains the same (and thus the temperature). The other common way to do this is via a thermostatically controlled valve.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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