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Thread: Install of PRV

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Default Install of PRV

    I took Redwood's advise and picked up the 25AUB-Z3 pressure reducing valve. I just have a stupid question before I replace it. The PRV I currently have is a Wilkins, but it's the same basic design as the Watts. On the inlet side, it looks like the brass female connection is attached to the valve body with a collet/nut (whichever is the correct term). Am i right in assuming this should not be loosened or touched at all?
    My plan is to cut the pipe on the outlet side and unscrew the existing valve. I sweat a new 3/4 male adapter to a new piece of pipe to be attached to the outlet side. I screw on the new valve at the inlet side and sweat a coupling to connect the pipes on the outlet side. Am I missing anything or is the nut/collet on the inlet side for an adjustment?
    My main concern is, it will probably be difficult to tighten the valve on the inlet side to get it exactly aligned as it should be.

    Thanks
    John

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Some pictures would help. The PRVs that I am familiar with should not be a difficult trade.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Default picture

    Here is a picture of my current valve needing replacement.
    It is mounted vertically.
    If you need any other pictures, I can try to get more. (my first time posting a picture anywhere)

    There are shutoffs above and below the valve.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Thats a union. Break the union apart and everything unscrews. No torch is needed the whole job is threaded.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Once again I appreciate your help.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Redwood,
    One more question. Upon taking it apart, I am just wondering the best way to tighten the threads of the PRV (brass insert that flattens against o-ring) onto the male adapter.
    I wouldn't think hand tightening would be enough with teflon tape on the male adapter, and a wrench can't be used, I wouldn't think ..... so how exactly should I secure it to the male adapter.

    Thanks in advance
    John

  7. #7
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    I don't recall if there was 2 flat spots for a wrench or, if I used a pipe wrench on the union connection when connecting to the male adapter on the copper. Teflon tape then cover with teflon paste is good on the threaded connections.

    On the union use a wrench no tape is needed, the o-ring makes the seal. A dab of plumbers grease on the threads is good.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Thanks all.

    I just finished replacing the PRV and it pretty much went as smooth as I could have imagined. I tested my pressure on an outside hose bib and what was previously 130 and is now reading as 60 psi. This is with the factory setting on the PRV which they state is set at 50. I'm OK with the variance and if anything, I may bump it up to 70 if the family starts complaining.
    Thanks again everyone with special thanks to Redwood. I took his advice on everything he posted and it worked out great.

    John

  9. #9
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Your welcome John,
    Thanks for posting back and letting us know how it went.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Default PRV gone wild

    After having the pressure at 60 for a couple days, the family said it would be great if they could have a little more pressure.

    I adjusted the PRV as stated in the instructions. I loosened the lck nut and turned the adjusting nut 1/12 turns clockwise. Then I tightened the lock nut again.
    I go outside to the hose bib and check the pressure and lo and behold, it's at 100. I know somethings wrong. I go back down to the basement and reverse the procedure and it's still at 100.

    Did I screw up something, I don't know how but it's possible.
    Is there a way to reset it some how (I hope)

    Thanks
    John

  11. #11
    TROJAN WORLDWIDE SALES RP MACPLUMB 777's Avatar
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    What you need to do is bleed off the pressure at a faucet or hose bib before re-tightening the lock nut in place bleed pressure check pressure make a small adjustment then retest !

    When prv is holding the correct pressure then tighten lock nut into place,

    the max pressure you want is 80 psi. Per plumbing code !

    Do not forget to install a new thermal expansion tank on cold water between the water heater shut off and the tank !

    Post picture and REDWOOD or I can tell you what parts and best way to do this !

    MACPLUMB 777

    E-MAIL
    JERRYMAC@TROJANWORLDWIDE.COM


    35 YEAR MASTER PLUMBER, HEATING, ELECTRIC, DRAINS, FIRE SPRINKLERS, WATER HEATER
    AND BOILERS SINCE JAN, 1989

    281-706-1631 7 DYS A WEEK SALES AND TECH. SUPPORT
    Trojan Worldwide Web Site


     



  12. #12
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    Thanks MacPlumb,

    I'll try it and let you know how it turns out.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member rockpile7's Avatar
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    MACPLUMB,

    I did what you suggested and it worked perfectly. My current pressure is back to 60.

    Thanks for all your help
    I will post a picture of my water heater set-up for expansion tank implementation, as soon as my son gets home from work.

    Thanks again.
    john

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