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Thread: Ready to install new bathtub - confused on a couple items.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member zubz's Avatar
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    Default Ready to install new bathtub - confused on a couple items.

    Hi Everyone,

    I have a new Kohler tub to install, as well as the drain and overflow kit from Kohler. You can see it has a slotted overflow which is a little unique, so had to get the correct kit directly from Kohler. I have 2 main questions:

    1) As you can see from the pics, the bathroom currently has ABS in it. The Kohler kit is PVC. I've done some research, and the general consesus is the 2 don't mix well. I don't think I really have a choice here, so what is the best way for me to connec these items work together.

    Connect with a no-hub coupling
    TL
    2) I have general confusion around the tub installation process, in regards to the pipes. Meaning, it seems it is recommended to install the new drain kit on the tub FIRST, then drop the tub in place. This bathroom is on 2nd floor, and I don't have access to the pipes from below. So I don't see how I would make the connections from the drain to the existing plumbing in the bathroom once the tub is installed. It would seem that I would have to install the drain kit onto the existing plumbing FIRST, then drop the tub in on top of it?

    I attached some pics to help. I really appreciate the advice.

    Jason

    The santee on your tub drain is upside down. Reverse it to the bend on the inlet flows down, not up
    TL
    Attached Images Attached Images     
    Last edited by Terry; 04-17-2010 at 08:40 AM.

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member zubz's Avatar
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    Terry..."The santee on your tub drain is upside down. Reverse it to the bend on the inlet flows down, not up"

    Can you clarify this? If you are referring to the picture of the PVC pipe, I just included the picture to show the PVC pipe.

    Also...still confused around, do I hook up the drain kit to the exisiting bathroom plumbing, THEN lay the tub on top of that? If I install it to the tub first, I dont see how I will make the connections. Thank You!

  3. #3
    Master Plumber-Gas Fitter shacko's Avatar
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    Default Waste and Overflow

    The other post was talking about your new waste and overflow that you show; the tee is on upside down.

    I hope you plan to put a access panel behind the tub where the drain is because you will have a hard time hooking it up without access, it can be done by installing the waste and overflow first, but that could run into a nightmare, plus you will have no way to fix any leaks when you're done without ripping something out.

    Since you have to tear part of the wall out to install a tub valve thats the spot you have to open up, it's going to be a PITA to hook up even then.

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    DIY Junior Member zubz's Avatar
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    Shacko, that is the sort of advice I am looking for. Was not aware that an access panel is necessary, but now that you mention it, it's obvious that it was I need. I just want to make sure I am on the right page. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I should connect the drain and overflow to tub. Then drop tub in place. Use access panel to make final connection. Then seal up access panel. Am I on target?

  5. #5
    Master Plumber-Gas Fitter shacko's Avatar
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    Most of the time I hook them up after the tub is set, it's to easy to damage your waste and overflow if you put it on ahead of time, either way you have to plan what you are going to do, any modifications of the existing pipe that you need to do should be done before you set the tub, it makes it a lot easier to work on without the tub in the way.

    As far as an access panel is concerned, if you can leave one behind the tub that would be the way to do it for future service, luck.

  6. #6
    Plumber Winslow's Avatar
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    Is the drain location in the exact same place? If you don't need to change the offset on the trap just cut the tailpiece above the trrap and connect the PVC with a No Hub coupling.

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    How we would install the tub may be different than how you can do it. I would install the waste and overflow to the trap first and then set the tub in place over it and then install the trim pieces, but that may not be something you, as a DIYer, could do properly since it would be your first attempt at doing it.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member awardmont's Avatar
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    How do unscrew a 1/2" galvanized pipe that will not turn?
    Thanks Mike

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Get a bigger wrench. Make sure to hold the fitting with something else, or you may tear other stuff apart. Sometimes, if you can turn it a small amount the opposite way, you can then unscrew it easier. Heat may help break it apart if you heat the fitting. PB Blaster might penetrate after awhile to help (but don't then heat it!).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  10. #10
    DIY Member thebigsee's Avatar
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    I"m in the same predicament re: waste overflow on my new tub, only I'm on a slab and there is virtually no access once the tub is set (the furnace is located directly behind the overflow; the apron is not removable; there's an access panel on the inside wall but it's impossible to reach anything it is set so far back -- none of it makes sense but I didn't build the house). I'm also attaching PVC to ABS.

    I was going to install the overflow/drain to the p-trap first then install the tub, but on dry runs I cannot get the drain basket to screw into the drain as it rests at a slight angle and I can't reach around to steady it in place.

    So, I'm going first attach a PVC stub to the ABS with a no-hub coupler, then elevate the tub on a 4-wheel mover's dolly, install the waste/drain assembly onto the tub, and then with some friend's help I'll reach around and cover the sanitary tee and stub with primer and cement and lower it down. I've measured and remeasured several times and it should work, but it will be a tense 2-minutes. It's not ideal but it's the only solution that can possibly work -- I know because the previous owner did the same thing with a brass overflow, only he had no way of tightening the connection so it fell out after a few years and that's when I ended up with an inch of water running down my hallway which prompted my removal of the tub. Maybe you'll have to do the same thing. Give an update of how you sorted it out.

  11. #11
    DIY Member thebigsee's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thebigsee View Post
    Give an update of how you sorted it out.
    OK, for posterity's sake, here's how it worked out: Thanks to God, I got all the measurements right and when we lowered the tub into place, the sanitary tee slid right onto the stub coming up out of the floor! So it can be done -- if anyone in the future is in the same situation, it's important to measure, measure, then measure again. Then, you do several dry-runs (I even put the tub up on a table and against a wall to simulate the layout of the alcove). If I didn't have more experience, I would have hired a plumber and let them deal with the headache, but I have more experience than money so it worked out. But it was like a moon-shot for me, it stretched my ability to the limit.

    Tested it last night -- it held water for 30 minutes with no leaks, and when I drained it there were no leaks either! Praise the Lord!

  12. #12
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    I would say you had more TIME, than money, NOT experience, because experience takes time to develop.

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