bluinc
New Member
Hi all,
With the bladder tank emptied at showing 0 psi, and thus taking a sample from the 3/4" valve at the bladder tank "T" directly from the well with the pump on, I can fill a 4 gallon bucket in a minute. I can do this consistently for what seems like unlimited buckets (I did 12, 5 gallon buckets yesterday, and measured no drop in yield. In addition to this low amount of water volume output, the well also belches out 12ppm iron. The only conditioning equipment I have installed so far is a 9000 twin 24 or 32k grain softener (I cant recall now which it is) set to recharge every 600 gallons. Despite this system and its settings, my water still has bouts of smelling like metal/rust and we get rust stains that come and go in our toilets, etc. A rep from "the biggest water company in Annapolis" recently came by and said it was NOT POSSIBLE to fix my water problem without first increasing the yield of my well to at least 8 or 10 gpm. Previously, I had a well guy come out and he said my well was dug to produce 16gpm, that all the other wells in my area have high rust like mine (and sulphur), that there was plenty of water in our area being so close to the Chesapeake, that my pump seemed to be working fine (dont know the HP), but that my "screens" just needed to be blown out with lp air, which he said he would do for $500 or $600, and he said this "reconditioning" may improve my yield and clean up some of my rust problem - but he, and a few other well and plumber types also said the procedure could blow holes in my screens, ruin the well and require me to dig a new one at about $10,000 to $15,000.
My question: Is there a way to get clean, rust free water without taking the risk of ruining my well with this "reconditioning" procedure. The water guy said I could at least get some relief by setting my conditioner to backflush every 300 gallons vice 600 but that it was just a bandaid.
We are a family of 2.5. with three bathrooms (1 shower, 2 tubs)
What say ye all?
With the bladder tank emptied at showing 0 psi, and thus taking a sample from the 3/4" valve at the bladder tank "T" directly from the well with the pump on, I can fill a 4 gallon bucket in a minute. I can do this consistently for what seems like unlimited buckets (I did 12, 5 gallon buckets yesterday, and measured no drop in yield. In addition to this low amount of water volume output, the well also belches out 12ppm iron. The only conditioning equipment I have installed so far is a 9000 twin 24 or 32k grain softener (I cant recall now which it is) set to recharge every 600 gallons. Despite this system and its settings, my water still has bouts of smelling like metal/rust and we get rust stains that come and go in our toilets, etc. A rep from "the biggest water company in Annapolis" recently came by and said it was NOT POSSIBLE to fix my water problem without first increasing the yield of my well to at least 8 or 10 gpm. Previously, I had a well guy come out and he said my well was dug to produce 16gpm, that all the other wells in my area have high rust like mine (and sulphur), that there was plenty of water in our area being so close to the Chesapeake, that my pump seemed to be working fine (dont know the HP), but that my "screens" just needed to be blown out with lp air, which he said he would do for $500 or $600, and he said this "reconditioning" may improve my yield and clean up some of my rust problem - but he, and a few other well and plumber types also said the procedure could blow holes in my screens, ruin the well and require me to dig a new one at about $10,000 to $15,000.
My question: Is there a way to get clean, rust free water without taking the risk of ruining my well with this "reconditioning" procedure. The water guy said I could at least get some relief by setting my conditioner to backflush every 300 gallons vice 600 but that it was just a bandaid.
We are a family of 2.5. with three bathrooms (1 shower, 2 tubs)
What say ye all?
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