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Thread: subfloor in basement which is correct

  1. #31
    DIY Junior Member bobgio's Avatar
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    Actually the laminate will be a floating floor so I guess the rigid foam is out since I do not want to add plywood. Also, I think I will use a 10 mm high density cross laminated polyethylene instead of the 6mm....the 10 mm is better manufactured and resists more wear...here is what I plan on buying

    http://buyplasticnow.com/vaporblock10.aspx

    Thanks again

  2. #32
    DIY Junior Member JVIPER's Avatar
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    I used to have a humidity issue with a small rain issue until I did the foundation grading, gutters and de humidifier inline with my hvac system. 2 years have past and no moisture issues but I like to be over prepared so...

    Would 6mm poly and 2" xps be way over kill for the floor?

  3. #33
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    If you have the headspace for it, it would be great.

  4. #34
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    6mm would be quite thick... lol.

  5. #35
    DIY Junior Member JVIPER's Avatar
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    I have 82" from the concrete to the lowest point of the hvac duct work and I plan on doing thin wood panels for the ceiling not a drop ceiling so I figured I could butt the panels right up to the ducts, this should leave about 78" total head room. That should be sufficient I think.

  6. #36
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    It won't be if you are 6'6" tall.

    Don't know what your layout is- do realize that a regular door R.O. is 82.5"

  7. #37
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Putting any soffit or bulk head right against a duct is also a bad idea.

  8. #38
    DIY Junior Member JVIPER's Avatar
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    the layout is totally open right now, I havent started anything. My basement is 50' x 25' with only two lally columns in the middle 6' apart. I'm only 5'8" and im the tall one in my family. 6'-6" would be the lowest point but not throughout the whole basement. I figured I may need to make my own custom doors so I am not too worried about that.

    Why would putting 1/4" wood panel against the hvac duct work be a bad idea?

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  10. #40
    DIY Junior Member JVIPER's Avatar
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    That's kinda what I though you meant. With limited headroom I thought wood panels may be the best option also incase I ever needed to gain access to the piping and wiring above wood panels would be better than sheet rock. Do I have other options that you would suggest?

  11. #41
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    I wouldn't worry too much about the thermal expansion/contraction here, but might consider doing 1" or 1.5" xps under your floor, and putting a 1/2" xps panel loosely between your duct and the wood panel if you're worried about it. As long as the panel isn't attached directly to the duct and it has a little room to expand and contract, this wouldn't really be necessary, especially if you condition this space year round, the changes in temperature on the wood panel wouldn't be that drastic. If you let it get down to 40 degrees and then heat it up to 80 degrees (which would be a good bit warmer than 80 in the duct) back and forth on a regular basis, that would be more concerning.

    try to keep your door locations at least 80" height... you don't need a lot of extra room (door can go right to finished ceiling), but try to make 80" the lowest point in the room. even for shorter people, it starts to get very claustrophobic lower than that.

  12. #42
    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Duct work moves as it heats up and cools down everywhere, it's not a location specific physics concept.

  13. #43
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    sorry if that was unclear, i didn't mean to refer to a location. by the word "here" i meant in this instance.

  14. #44
    DIY Junior Member JVIPER's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice. The ducts are wrapped in an insulating foil and yes the space will be conditioned year round the basement is set up as zone 2 for the hvac. I assume there may only be at most a 5-10 degree difference throughout the season changes.

    will my floors still stay warm with the poly and 1" xps under 5/8 plywood?

  15. #45
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    obviously more insulation is always better. the temp of your slab in your location is probably about 55 degrees year round, and inch of xps will give you R5 generally. the difference you would actually feel under your feet would probably be pretty insignificant between that and 2" in your case, i would go for the 1" and keep the headroom... and I'm an insulation freak. i have 4" of foam in my exterior walls. of course i also have heated floors thorughout my home, so my feet are always warm

    i'm also tall, so that may color my preferences a bit, fwiw.

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