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Thread: Reducing GPM flow from submersible pump.

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010

    Default Reducing GPM flow from submersible pump.

    I have installed a 5000 gallon storage tank for our irrigation system.

    I would like to fill the tank (bring level back to normal height) during the all irrigation off times.

    My normal irrigation requirements are approx 2500 gallons per day, the well is a 12 inch bore, flow rate 14 gallons per minute, the static head is 65 feet and the pump is at the 320 foot level of the 800 foot in total well.

    I plan to pump from the well with the submersible 2.0 HP pump to the top of the 5000 gallon tank (no pressure tank in the line) and draw water from the bottom of the storage tank with a 1.5 hp jet pump to feed a bladder type pressure tank and hence the irrigation system.

    My main question is would a Cycle Stop Valve work for this installation, installed in the 5000 gallon tank supply line from the well.

    My problem is to pump at around 5 to 10 gallons per minute to fill up the 5000 gallon storage tank without pumping at too high a flow rate and hence pump the well down below its recovery rate.

    Basically I need some type of a restrictor device that will not damage the deep well pump but at the same time reduce the GPM flow of the pump supplying the non pressurized 5000 gallon tank.


  2. #2


    I am no expert, but my pump would pump more water than the well would recover so I choked it down w/ a ball balve. Been that way awhile , and works fine.

  3. #3
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    northfork, california


    Looks like you are wasting about 500' of well with the pump set level. Your restrictor could be a Franklin Pumptek that will not allow dry running and give a adjustable reset time. You would need to post the number of stages in the pump or its curve to get a better opinion. Have you tested the exact output at the tank in GPM when the pump is running? have you pumped air? That is a big deep hole with good recovery. I dont think you have much to worry about.

    I would first add a pumptek and then reset the pump if any issues.

    Looks like you can pump the 2500 gallons in about 3 hours at 14 GPM and theoretically not draw down the level. Why not have a barbeque at the well and see how long it runs all out before blowing air? A dole valve can control the flow in a better manner than a ball valve.
    Last edited by ballvalve; 03-30-2010 at 09:17 PM.

  4. #4
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Lubbock, Texas


    A ball valve is adjustable, and is a good way to determine how much the well will make. A ball valve has a tendency to wash out or loosen up on it's own, when used to choke a well. Once you have determined what the flow rate needs to be, you can replace the ball valve with a Dole valve, that won't wash out or loosen up.

    As Ballvalve said, you could let the pump run full out until it pumps off, then let it time out and start up again. I like the Cycle Sensor for this instead of the pumptec, but either one will do this. Also as Ballvalve said, you have a lot of wasted water below your well pump. If you move the pump lower, you might not even need the storage tank and booster.

    Which by the way, the place for a Cycle Stop Valve would be on your booster pump, and would help if your booster pump ever cycles on and off while irrigating.

  5. #5


    I've always thought a ball valve was the right choice for either all the way open or all the way closed type applications.
    And, that a quality brass gate valve was a better option for regulating flow.


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