Gary Slusser
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I disagree that they are comparable IF you are looking at the ease of programming and repair by a DIYer but in this case especially where there is a cabinet model softener that is limited to a 10" x probably a 35" resin tank. There is no sense to go with a 1.25" control valve.Clack makes a good valve. If it were priced the same as the Fleck 7000 I would consider the two valves comparable--there are some differences but on balance they net each other out in my view. However most internet sellors price the 1" version of the Clack valve about $40 higher and in my view the Clack doesn't warrant the premium.
Actually most distributors sell the Clack at a higher price than Fleck valves, possibly due to Clack's distributor contract where the valve is not allowed to be sold separately unless it is replacing another brand of valve; as in this case. I suspect Clack charges more for their valves than Fleck does.
There is no sense in a 1.25" control valve on a cabinet model softener.I would be interested in knowing what tilts the balance in favor of Clack in your evaluation. I hope you are not being influenced by some of the bad information posted earlier in this thread. I am specifically referring to the following points
--that the 7000 is overkill (bigger internal passages are always better if the price is the same or less, the Clack 1.25 in valve is about $100 more expensive than the Clack 1" and the Clack 1" sells for $40 more than the 7000)
--that the 7000 uses excessive water because of the variable brining feature (it doesn't have a variable brining feature so this comment is pure ####)
--that there is a difference in the ability of a DIYer to repair the valve because you need a screwdriver and pliers for the Fleck 7000 but you don't need those tools for a Clack (it is true that the Clack circuit board snaps out while the Fleck board uses screws but on the other hand there is a risk you will break the board or the snap fasteners with the Clack).
The tools needed to work on a 7000 are more than pliers and a screwdriver, I know there is a nut that must be turned to just the right position and IIRC (if I recall correctly) the manual calls for a socket. That is so the plastic nut is not chewed up and the piston can be 'indexed' just right or you can't get things apart. Maybe you don't know that Bob because you've never sold a 7000 or worked on one. And when you get it right and apart, you must re-index or you can't get it back together until you do. There's no such thing on any Clack valve.
To break the thumb tabs on a Clack you'll have to try really hard but, to get the circuit board off a Clack you can either take the board off or the board and the bracket it is installed on off as one piece instead of the board and then the bracket separately.