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Thread: Closet Flange Cast Iron - Condition

  1. #1

    Default Closet Flange Cast Iron - Condition

    I am installing a new Toto Aquia II toilet in a 50+ year old house. The sanitary lines are cast iron. Here is a picture of the existing flange which is brass with a leaded connection. Note that the flange sits above the tile by about 1/8" to 3/16". I would like to know the following:

    1. Is this in an acceptable condition to proceed with new toilet install?
    2. If not do I need to install a new flange?
    3. Should there be shims under the flange?
    4. Do I have the right materials?
    5. Any other recommendations?

    Just want to make sure before I find out after I install everything and have problems.

    Note: Included is a picture of the Toto setup materials to be installed.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    It's normal to have the flange on top of the finished floor, so I think you won't have any problems. As long as the lead is not split. It would be nicer if it was smoother around the flange, but the wax should compress and fill in to make a good seal. See what the pros have to say...
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    As jadnashus said if the lead is OK you should be good to go, just be sure you screw the flange to the floor.

    John

  4. #4

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    It is Interesting that the flange wasn't screwed to the floor originally. I am guessing that I need to shim the flange at the anchor points to keep from stressing the connection. Any recommendations for drilling tile?

  5. #5
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    There is NO connection. The brass flange was just slipped over the lead bend and then beat down to make a funnel/flange. Screw the flange to the floor then use a piece of wood to hammer the lead down against it. It does appear that the lead has at least one hole in it, but the wax ring should cover it, or use a solder gun, not a torch, to to close it up.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by SeibelWerks View Post
    It is Interesting that the flange wasn't screwed to the floor originally. I am guessing that I need to shim the flange at the anchor points to keep from stressing the connection. Any recommendations for drilling tile?
    I usually use a cordless hammer drill with a tile drill bit and blue painters tape on the tile where I want to drill. Haven't cracked a tile yet. Another method is to center punch the tile then you can use a standard drill and bit. You have to be careful not to crack the tile wen you center punch though.

  7. #7
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Drill 4 holes large enough to accept #12 stainless steel screws with sufficient length to go into the sub floor. I prefer stainless steel over brass for strength. Much less change of camming out on the head. Be sure the flange is oriented correctly before you drill, you don't want the toilet to sit out of square.

  8. #8
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Some tile (porcelain, but not all) is much harder than carbide bits. If you have some of that down, a diamond bit will work better making holes.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #9

    Smile Installation Complete for 3 toilets

    Thanks to everyone's support, I completed the installation for 3 toilets. Attached are images of the toilet installation and the other closet flange conditions. All toilets are working well. The soft close seat is highly recommended.

    2 of the 3 toilets had soft tile that was easily drilled with a carbide tip. 1 of the 3 had super hard tile but I managed to muddle through with the carbide. Yes, the diamond tip would have been better.
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    Last edited by SeibelWerks; 04-10-2010 at 03:37 PM.

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