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Thread: Sump Pump Replacement and Check Valve

  1. #1

    Default Sump Pump Replacement and Check Valve

    Looks like the SJ Rhombus piggy-back float switch is going bad on my 17 year old sump pump (not sewage, just basement perimeter drain and HVAC condens.). Pump switches on OK, but at end of cycle,it looks like the switch is "chattering" as the pump motor occassionally cycles on and off 2-3 times in quick succession, but always at end of cycle.

    Thinking that after 17 years, I should replace both pump and switch. Looking at the Liberty 250 series (253 1/3HP with piggy-back float). Get impression its a good reliable pump....Are Liberty switches good??

    Will be adding a check valve (vertical install, pumps up 8' and across 10' to exit house), so here are my questions??

    (a) Who makes a good check valve?
    (b) Should it go inside pit or outside?? My cover is one piece so I need removable connection above lid to gain access, so external check seems better but I worry about leaking/failure???
    (c) Libery has a compression check valve which looks nice for ease of installation and access. Do these have any problem with leaking and vibrating loose?? Or I should go with rubber/clamp version??
    (d) The pipes are clamped well to the wall, but I still get "hammer" when pump shuts off, so I assume check valve will help.
    (e) Libery has "drain/air lock hole" so I don't intend to drill 1/8" hole in PVC pipe.
    (f) Should I replace tight 90's with wide sweep 90's or combos of 45's to "smooth" the flow of water to help eliminate the "hammer".
    (g) Do you guys use the "Brick" sold by Liberty to raise up the pump. This is just plain water pump in a clean plastic pit, not much debris, etc.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    17 years is a long time for any appliance to work. Liberty makes a fine pump, as does Zoeller.

    A.Y. McDonald makes a great silent check valve that stops the water hammer.

  3. #3
    Master Plumber-Gas Fitter shacko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraujr View Post
    Looks like the SJ Rhombus piggy-back float switch is going bad on my 17 year old sump pump (not sewage, just basement perimeter drain and HVAC condens.). Pump switches on OK, but at end of cycle,it looks like the switch is "chattering" as the pump motor occassionally cycles on and off 2-3 times in quick succession, but always at end of cycle.

    Thinking that after 17 years, I should replace both pump and switch. Looking at the Liberty 250 series (253 1/3HP with piggy-back float). Get impression its a good reliable pump....Are Liberty switches good??

    Will be adding a check valve (vertical install, pumps up 8' and across 10' to exit house), so here are my questions??

    (a) Who makes a good check valve?
    (b) Should it go inside pit or outside?? My cover is one piece so I need removable connection above lid to gain access, so external check seems better but I worry about leaking/failure???
    (c) Libery has a compression check valve which looks nice for ease of installation and access. Do these have any problem with leaking and vibrating loose?? Or I should go with rubber/clamp version??
    (d) The pipes are clamped well to the wall, but I still get "hammer" when pump shuts off, so I assume check valve will help.
    (e) Libery has "drain/air lock hole" so I don't intend to drill 1/8" hole in PVC pipe.
    (f) Should I replace tight 90's with wide sweep 90's or combos of 45's to "smooth" the flow of water to help eliminate the "hammer".
    (g) Do you guys use the "Brick" sold by Liberty to raise up the pump. This is just plain water pump in a clean plastic pit, not much debris, etc.

    Thanks in advance.
    Check valve should be outside the pit for ease of service.

    All drain pipe should be run with the least restriction where possible

    If you need to raise the pump, anything will work, I don't see the need to buy something

    The other post gave you an idea for a silent check-valve

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