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Thread: ISOBAR Automatic Filter Control Valve & R/O advice

  1. #16
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Even the best of cleaning with Iron out or any other resin cleaner is not going to stop the iron build up on the incoming parts of the valve.. there is always half of any valve that will only be dealing with untreated water.

    When there is a seal cage in the valve if one of the incoming spacers gets loaded with iron it will stick to the inside of the valve making it hard to get out.. add to that when a spacer is screwed into the next spacer.. it is even more of a challenge to get out with out any damage to the spacer.

  2. #17
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    Like I said, I have probably 2 dozen iron ruined valves in my storage room

  3. #18
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    Even the best of cleaning with Iron out or any other resin cleaner is not going to stop the iron build up on the incoming parts of the valve.. there is always half of any valve that will only be dealing with untreated water.

    When there is a seal cage in the valve if one of the incoming spacers gets loaded with iron it will stick to the inside of the valve making it hard to get out.. add to that when a spacer is screwed into the next spacer.. it is even more of a challenge to get out with out any damage to the spacer.
    I have not heard of any of that yet and I have 13 ppm of iron running through some of the valves I've sold, but have not had the stack out of any of them yet. You need to look at the design of the Clack WS-1 stack to see why that doesn't happen.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #19
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    It does happen, I tore town and flushed a WS-1 last week. 9ppm iron. Plugged the valve just about solid in less than a year of service.

  5. #20
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
    Well, I havn't sold 1300 of them by any stretch of the imagination and the ones I have sold have performed to expectations. I think I've had maybe a half dozen that had a problem with the internal battery wo when the power went off they would not re-set or re-program but Clack warrantied them with no questions asked. They are a nice valve. If your customer wants and electronic, demand valve IMO Clack is the way to go. That said, I still sell Fleck 2 to 1, mostly because of the cost issue, and like it or not, cost is an issue especially when you have Homo Depot and Lowes selling GE's and whatever else for under 4 bills. I get that damn question all the time. The whole secret is to know and educate your customer. I hate getting into a pissing match over who's valve and or tank is better. Better is always subjective and should always be based on a number of factors and even then I am always glad that there are options and choices rather than relying on one particular brand.
    My sales count is accurate right out of my database; 1362 as of a week or so ago.

    I've never had a battery problem other than one that wasn't making contact when the softener was being installed. Never had a loss of memory problem. I've had maybe a dozen customers have blank displays or no metering and with a bit of magic I got them to fix the cause. I've only had 6-7 circuit boards that had to be replaced and a third or so had been struck by lightening and I've had 3 with error codes; two were replaced under warranty and one was just last week and I haven't heard back from the customer yet. So maybe he checked the things I told him and fixed the problem.

    I don't have to compete with big box store brands because most people that call me have done research on the internet and don't want to buy one of them.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  6. #21
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
    It does happen, I tore town and flushed a WS-1 last week. 9ppm iron. Plugged the valve just about solid in less than a year of service.
    I guess your customer wasn't using the right volume of Iron Out when and how he should have been.

    What in the valve was just about plugged solid? And what did you have to do to get the stack out?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #22
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
    It does happen, I tore town and flushed a WS-1 last week. 9ppm iron. Plugged the valve just about solid in less than a year of service.
    Was this valve in Softener setting or filter setting?

  8. #23
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    It was is set to soften, The customer bought the unit online. The customer never used Iron out or any product and didn't know he had too. The entire valve head was a mess. I'm not sure how my service tech got the stack out, I assume he hooked a finger in and lifted it out. On the plus side all he had to do was flush the crap out of it, Iron out the bed and backflush it to get is up and running again. I have only had battery back up problems with the WS-1 and my factory rep told me it was a known issue. Then again I don't have all that many ws-1's in service in this area.

  9. #24
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    That customer might have been using some form of iron out in the salt... Morten with resin guard is a form of iron out and salt... but if the rest of the valve was loaded... it happens to every valve that is out there, untreated side of the valve take a beating when it comes to iron build up.

    That flow through valve of Clack, the 1190 is a great one for upflow neutralizers ... makes filling the tank so much nicer than the in on the right and out on the left types or using a 2nd tank adapter from a twin set up...

    And that bypass... a little different from the one fleck came out with years ago but a great bypass, full flow through.. and that is sweet...

  10. #25
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
    It was is set to soften, The customer bought the unit online. The customer never used Iron out or any product and didn't know he had too. The entire valve head was a mess. I'm not sure how my service tech got the stack out, I assume he hooked a finger in and lifted it out.
    Yep, all 7 seals is it with a spacer between them and only a finger tip is needed to remove them as one piece instead of all those separate seals and spacers in a Fleck that don't want to come out even with the special model specific Fleck tools even if there is no dirt build up.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Griffin View Post
    On the plus side all he had to do was flush the crap out of it, Iron out the bed and backflush it to get it up and running again. I have only had battery back up problems with the WS-1 and my factory rep told me it was a known issue. Then again I don't have all that many ws-1's in service in this area.
    Those 2 dozen iron ruined control valves you have in the back room, how many are the Clack WS-1 and do you want to sell them?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  11. #26
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    1500,2500,2510,2750 are a bit of a challenge with out the pull and push tools, they can be done, the larger valves, and 5600 do not need the tool as fingers do very nicely..
    Using the Channel Lock type is a no no on the Clack as it Could brake the plastic parts.. and warranty out the door... There is a Clack wrench that can turn just about every nut or form of nut that is on the valve.... and is the tool for working on the valve..


    Almost forgot, just about every Fleck has a way of doing No Hard Water Bypass in a piston... there is not one listed for the clack, so to do that there would need to be a Solenoid put in place with a switch to close that solenoid while the unit is in a cleaning cycle if the need for no untreated water getting past the control.
    Last edited by Akpsdvan; 03-07-2010 at 03:51 PM.

  12. #27
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    No Clack's back there......................................yet

  13. #28
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    1500,2500,2510,2750 are a bit of a challenge with out the pull and push tools, they can be done, the larger valves, and 5600 do not need the tool as fingers do very nicely..
    Using the Channel Lock type is a no no on the Clack as it Could brake the plastic parts.. and warranty out the door... There is a Clack wrench that can turn just about every nut or form of nut that is on the valve.... and is the tool for working on the valve..
    Careful use of pliers works but I include the wrench with all Clack WS-1 control valves.

    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    Almost forgot, just about every Fleck has a way of doing No Hard Water Bypass in a piston... there is not one listed for the clack, so to do that there would need to be a Solenoid put in place with a switch to close that solenoid while the unit is in a cleaning cycle if the need for no untreated water getting past the control.
    Yes there is a no hard water bypass piston, just read about it about last Wednesday when checking that I had the latest version manual and looking up an error code definition and possible causes.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  14. #29
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Right tool for any job is choice One.....

  15. #30
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Then you should be using the Fleck 5600 tools, especially on those plugged up with rust because I know fingers alone aren't going to get the spacers out.

    Peter, you said you tore down and flushed iron out of a Clack last week and then you say your tech did it and you don't know how he got the stack out... You also said you had a dozen valves loaded up with rust in the back room when we were talking about the Clack yet now you say none of them are Clack...
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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