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Thread: Laundry Remodel - Dry Fit - Help?!

  1. #1
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    Default Laundry Remodel - Dry Fit - Help?!

    Hey guys, I just dry fit my plumbing drains for our laundry room remodel. If you could check the attached picture of my work it would be greatly appreciated. The setup is going to be washer, dryer, sink, from left to right. The only snag (well not the only one..but) I ran into was having to shift the drain vent over to dodge the dryer vent (since it was already cut into the brick). Disregard the hot and cold supply lines, they are being moved.

    It is just a dry fit so I know the pitch and plumb in the picture is not perfect. Thanks for any help and advice you can give, you all have always been helpful.
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    Plumber krow's Avatar
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    Where the 2 vents attach together is way to low. Attach the y vent at 42" off the floor and your good to go

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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how you plan on finishing the wall but the foamboard must be covered by a minimum of 1/2" drywall. You cannot leave extruded foam exposed because it is a fire/smoke hazard.

    That being said, your DVW will need to be shifted outward from the present wall. Given the need for plumbing and electrical installation, a full frame wall is recommended here.
    Last edited by cacher_chick; 02-26-2010 at 02:51 PM.

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    'm not sure how you plan on finishing the wall but the foamboard must be covered by a minimum of 1/2" drywall. You cannot leave extruded foam exposed because it is a fire/smoke hazard.

    That being said, your DVW will need to be shifted outward from the present wall. Given the need for plumbing and electrical installation, a full frame wall is recommended here.
    I am planning on framing a full 2x4 wall and drywalling. I just wanted to get my pipe dry fit right first. Thanks for the help.

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    Where the 2 vents attach together is way to low. Attach the y vent at 42" off the floor and your good to go
    What do you think the best way to do that is? I need to dodge the dryer vent which is "inconveniently" located directly above vent/main drain. Should I loop the vents around the dryer vent (effectively encircling it) or swing them to the left (possibly moving my combo further left toward the washing machine trap)?

    Also, just curious, why does the y vent need to be attached at least 42" off of the floor?

    Thanks for the help!

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    Where the 2 vents attach together is way to low. Attach the y vent at 42" off the floor and your good to go
    Would this work? Use your imagination and pretend that there is pipe between the fittings I taped up.

    Thanks for any help in advance.
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    Plumber krow's Avatar
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    If one side backs up, you don't want the water to go down the other side of the vent. You will never know it is plugged

    Yours will work too
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    Superb! Thanks for your help krow!

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    Nuclear Engineer nukeman's Avatar
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    You could replace that san tee with a long sweep elbow and take the vent off before the elbow. Run the vent up on the other side of the dryer vent and then tie it back in at 42" or so.

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Dry fitting PVC will give you problems. PVC is interference fit which means it does not go together without solvent. If you have forced pipe into the fittings, it will be very difficult to remove, even as tight as it is, the pipe will be about 1/4" from bottoming out in the fitting. This means your pipe will be about 1/4" short for every joint made. Start at one end and work from there, measure, cut, and assemble as you go.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Most plumbers would replace your combo to the washer with a coupling, replace the upper "Y" with a 45, and eliminate the "vent" for the washer drain which is not needed and is redundant, and leave everything else just the way you have it.

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    Well I did this project yesterday. After I was done I realized that I should have moved the sink branch up higher, it is really way too low (I will be raising the floor to make it level with the rest of the house). Should I do this by adding another vertical drop before the drain, then I assume I would have to retie a vent into the main drain?

    I didn't leave enough pipe around the fittings to cut it out and move it higher.

    HJ, I was under the impression that I had to have a secondary vent for the washer since it was below the sink in the stack?

    Yes , I realize I am probably creating a cluster and kind of screwed up. I intentionally made the washer trap as low as possible so that I am able to use a dryer box for the dryer. Check out the attached picture.

    Keep in mind, that as long as it works well and is up to code, I don't care if it looks hodge-podge to a master plumber.

    The wall is going to be furred out a full 2x6, so I will have plenty of room.

    Thanks for everyone's help!
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    Last edited by bmb2m9; 02-28-2010 at 02:24 PM.

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    Like this?! I assume you have to vent at every vertical drop after the p-trap.
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    Yes, that will work too. It will be a little bit busy and some venting will be redundant, but it beats ripping it all out again

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    es, that will work too. It will be a little bit busy and some venting will be redundant, but it beats ripping it all out again
    Sweet, thanks! What is the standard height for a sink stub-in/rough-in? About 24 inches off of the subfloor?!

    Yes, it will be very busy...

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