Fleck 2510 Salt Dose

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Matt Williams

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The timer continues.....per normal.
Brine float does not seem to move at all, during any cycle. Brine itself lowers in the tank during the 1st 3ish minutes of refill (sucking brine). Float is always touching liquid brine, but it doesn't hinge, like I'd think it should. And like when I manually push or pull it.
Maybe the float slides up,and down its 'rod'?
 

ditttohead

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Maybe I am not understanding. During refill the water is pushed back into the brine tank, not "sucking brine". The float may be a sliding rod type, these are not very common but not unheard of. Can you post some pictures of the equipment? Brine tank, valve, tank etc. This would help considerably.
 

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Thank you, I will post photos, my system is older.....my brine tank level lowers during refill. It seems brine is going from brine tank into the softener. No?
The float lowers down the rod as the brine lowers, then shuts off early ( my original question).
 

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Thank you, I will post photos, my system is older.....my brine tank level lowers during refill. It seems brine is going from brine tank into the softener. No?
The float lowers down the rod as the brine lowers, then shuts off early ( my original question).
 

ditttohead

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The cycles are as follows.
1: Backwash, this reverses the water flow through the tank, cleaning and reclassifying the resin bed
2: Brine draw/slow rinse, this cycle draws the brine out of the brine tank for approx. 15 minutes, the remaining 45 minutes the water slowly rinses the salt out of the resin tank.
3: Fast rinse, this cycle packs the resin bed down, and can act as a salt rinse should a minor problem occur during the regeneration, though it should not be used to rinse salt out of the system.
4: Brine fill, this cycle refills the brine tank with a pre-determined amount of water. Each gallon of water dissolve approximately 3 pounds of salt.

This is a very generic explanation and there are hundreds of variations to this but this is the most common. If your system is drawing brine during the fill cycle, you have a failed component in your system.
 

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Thank you. I und Rostand the system and it is working properly. I thought the fill was filling the softener. Couldn't tell through the tube.
Thanks again.
 

Reach4

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Thank you. I und Rostand the system and it is working properly. I thought the fill was filling the softener. Couldn't tell through the tube.
Thanks again.
I first thought you were saying your system was working properly, and I figured " Rost" got inserted into "understand" as a typo. Sounded good. Unfortunately your follow-on post says the system is still not working.

The brine tube, which contains the Safety Brine Valve Assy, in the brine tank, has a lid. You can lift that lid and see the brine level. You could use a long dowel rod etc as a dipstick.
 
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ditttohead

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Please post some pictures.
All we can see is that it likely has a 3200 series timer.

How old is the valve? If it is more than 5 years old you may want to replace the seal/spacer/piston and some assorted seals/O-rings.

I am still unclear on your explanation.

Is it drawing during the draw cycle?
Is it filling during the fill cycle?
 

Matt Williams

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Ok. Help please again. What causes the brine tank to overfill after 6 or 8 minutes? It does not stop, keeps filling from softener. For years, the water and salt were too high, relying on the safety float to shut it off. I have the levels down where they should be. Now I have to manually lift the float to get it to stop filling.
Why won't it stop filling? What causes? Bad marble? Bad safety valve ? Bad control?
 

ditttohead

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The brine fill cycle is controlled by a small black rubber button inside the brass fitting on the valve where the brine line connects.
1: Remove the brine fill tube from the brine tank and measure the flow when the system is in the fill position.
2: Does the system remove all the water (except for 2-3 inches from the bottom) during the brine draw cycle?
 

Matt Williams

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The brine fill cycle is controlled by a small black rubber button inside the brass fitting on the valve where the brine line connects.
1: Remove the brine fill tube from the brine tank and measure the flow when the system is in the fill position.
2: Does the system remove all the water (except for 2-3 inches from the bottom) during the brine draw cycle?

Ok. Thank you. Removed tube today, but not while filling. Will do Monday.
It does remove all the water. Unfortunately, as I'm fixing someone else's screw ups, the brine tank was about half full today and it took 35 minutes to remove all the super salty water.

Here's my updated pins/timing.....
6 min bw
64 draw/rinse
6 Rrinse
6 min=3 gallons=9 lbs. bregenerate every 3800 gallons or so.

10x54 ....9 hardness
I own a campground. Using a home system for potentially 1000gal/ day usage......slow days are 200/gal/ day.
Thank yiu
 

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Matt Williams

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Ok. Thank you. Removed tube today, but not while filling. Will do Monday.
It does remove all the water. Unfortunately, as I'm fixing someone else's screw ups, the brine tank was about half full today and it took 35 minutes to remove all the super salty water.

Here's my updated pins/timing.....
6 min bw
64 draw/rinse
6 Rrinse
6 min=3 gallons=9 lbs. bregenerate every 3800 gallons or so.

10x54 ....9 hardness
I own a campground. Using a home system for potentially 1000gal/ day usage......slow days are 200/gal/ day.
Thank yiu

Betting this is the problem. Old bad valve/assembly.
Replacing today....
 

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ditttohead

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That valve is definitely beyond its recommended service life. You should replace it with the plastic version, these are much more durable than the brass ones. Considering what that looks like, you should probably rebuild the entire valve.
 

Matt Williams

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Yes, rebuilding now. Have plastic valve, tubing, Ferruls, eat, etc,
Also putting on timer. The same one, only slightly used, not smoked.
Now........can you confirm my pin locations for regeneration. In a previous photo in this thread?
Thank you.
 

Matt Williams

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New valve, emptied brine tank, etc, etc. all seemed good. Sucked tank forever. Wouldn't stop. Sucked a bunch of air. Water stopped flowing mid-slow rinse cycle. Not sure why....then I manually moved to rapid rinse. 6 minutes. Then would not refill, nothing would flow back into brine tank......?
Help. Manually ended.
 

ditttohead

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Inside the brine tank is an air check. This should not allow any air to be sucked in. You need to replace/repair the aircheck inside the brine tank. If you allowed the tank to suck air for a long time, the mineral tank can nearly empty itself of water. When the system goes to fast rinse, the air will remain. The brine fill cycle will then allow the air to escape to the brine tank until all of the air is removed.
Hope this helps.
 

Matt Williams

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Inside the brine tank is an air check. This should not allow any air to be sucked in. You need to replace/repair the aircheck inside the brine tank. If you allowed the tank to suck air for a long time, the mineral tank can nearly empty itself of water. When the system goes to fast rinse, the air will remain. The brine fill cycle will then allow the air to escape to the brine tank until all of the air is removed.
Hope this helps.
That's what I thought. The marble.......at the bottom of the safety float shaft......it rolls in its sleeve but I can't see it. It's probably destroyed after years sitting in salt muck.
Any recommendations on my pin settings?
 

ditttohead

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How old is the resin? Have you tested the capacity?

In general the salt setting would be at 8 pounds per cf, but this can vary wildly.

Backwash in most applications where the water is fairly sediment free, 6-10 minute.
Brine draw assuming the injector is correct, 60 minutes
Rapid rinse 4-8 minutes
Refill 8 minutes assuming a .5 GPM BLFC for 12 pounds per cf.

Meter set to 3600 gallons minus 1 days water usage 1000 gallons, meter set to actual 2600 gallons.

This is where a twin alternating system makes a little more sense or a much larger single tank system with updated algorithmic electronics.
 
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