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Thread: Should I Add a Pressure Gauge to A Bladderless Tank

  1. #1

    Default Should I Add a Pressure Gauge to A Bladderless Tank

    I am running an Aqua Pure system with an airator on my well. The airator is part of the Aqua Pure system and is there to remove iron from the water. Aqua Pure recommends a bladderless tank when using an airator. In fact I have a bladderless tank Quick Tank Q42VSQ with an Ametek WJ air volume control as well as the original bladder tank. I recently had draw down problems after 10 years of operation. I drained the system and found that the bladder air tank was at 10psi. I added air to 28 psi. I removed the Ametek WJ air volume controller from the bladderless tank and water came pouring out even though I had drained the system down. I replaced the Ametek WJ air volume control valve. I think that the tank must have been full to the brim with water.

    I also replaced the system water pressure gauge and found that my Square D 30/50 switch was switching at 25/45. I adjusted the switch to give me 30/50.

    My system seems to be working well now. Now to my question - I see that there is an 1 inch plug on the top of the Q42VSQ tank. Would it be a good idea to add a 6 inch nipple and a pressure gauge to keep an eye on the air pressure in the bladderless tank? I think that it would help to verify correct operation of that tank.

    thanks Mark

  2. #2
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I don't know anything about your aerator.

    A non-bladder tank does not separate the air from the water in the tank so any gauge on the tank would be reading the combined pressure, irregardless of whether it was water or air. A non bladder tank must have something in place to put air IN the tank. The WJ AVC (1-1/4" inlet float valve) only lets excessive air OUT of the tank.

  3. #3

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    Yes I have just been reading about hydro bladderless tanks. The aerator is before the tank and and should be set to inject air for 1/3 of the pump up time. When it was first installed I could never get it to adjust correctly and it aerated for about 1/2 the pump up time. After several years I replaced the internal parts of the aerator when they started to leak. I was then able to adjust and obtain the correct 1/3 injection time. This might not be enough which resulted in the tank becoming waterlogged. Could I add a gauge and a faucet at the top of the tank to make it relatively easy to drain the system down and fill the tank with air by opening the faucet at the top of the tank every month or so?

  4. #4
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    Any fitting on the top of the tank is a potential place for the air to leak out. I doubt that the hole for the one inch plug goes all the way into the tank. Those top fittings are usually just to hang the tank from, when painting or coating. You can add a pressure gauge and a schrader valve to the 1/4" fitting on the AVC.

  5. #5
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Markgc View Post
    Yes I have just been reading about hydro bladderless tanks. The aerator is before the tank and and should be set to inject air for 1/3 of the pump up time. When it was first installed I could never get it to adjust correctly and it aerated for about 1/2 the pump up time. After several years I replaced the internal parts of the aerator when they started to leak. I was then able to adjust and obtain the correct 1/3 injection time. This might not be enough which resulted in the tank becoming waterlogged. Could I add a gauge and a faucet at the top of the tank to make it relatively easy to drain the system down and fill the tank with air by opening the faucet at the top of the tank every month or so?
    How about this... the improper air pressure in the bladder tank caused the pump to short cycle and that changed the 1/3rd pump run time and that screwed up the air volume, water logging the bladderless tank.
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  6. #6
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    I would like to see how you operate or plumbed up a system with both bladder and standard tanks in one setting. Seems to me it should be all standard with air injectors on each tank.

  7. #7

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    Yes that is very possible Gary. Also I have been away working for a long time and the only use of the well for months has been theAqua Pure 10 minute back flushing cycle. It is most likely that the pressure that the well pump holds during the back flush time is above the pressure that airator functions at. So no air or very little air would be injected during the backfush process.

    I hope this works but here is my setup..




  8. #8

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    and another view




  9. #9

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    valveman

    Any fitting on the top of the tank is a potential place for the air to leak out. I doubt that the hole for the one inch plug goes all the way into the tank. Those top fittings are usually just to hang the tank from, when painting or coating. You can add a pressure gauge and a schrader valve to the 1/4" fitting on the AVC.
    I looked at the top of the tank and it has a 5/8 Allen screw in there. It looks glued in and I really don't want to mess with it. I bet it would take some beating to get out. Getting the AVC out was bad enough.

    Are you suggesting that I put a nipple and T piece on the AVC and then add the gauge and a schrader valve.Will a valve like this work or is there a special one used for plumbing?

    http://www.amazon.com/inch-MPT-Schra.../dp/B0006B07BU



    A close up of the AVC. You can click on the Icon for a bigger picture




    Another question. I just used thread tape on the fittings and I have a slight weep on the AVC. Do you guys use pipe dope as well as thread tape generally?

    thanks Mark

  10. #10
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    Yes Yes and one more Yes. One reason I hate them damn valves. I call it creeping pressure itus.

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