Pedestal sink installation problem

To reclaim some space in a small bathroom, I decided to replace my large cabinet sink with a pedestal sink. The mock up looked great.

Restrictions:

1. There is a drain pipe running from the tub under where the pedestal column would sit, therefore I couldn't choose a sink that required me to drill into the floor.
   
   
2. I would like to install a horizontal stud to secure the sink to, but there is a thick vertical pipe right in the middle of the space where would need to put it.

I looked around for options and found this clip that suggests the use of a toggle bolt.


What's your opinion of using a toggle bolt to secure a sink basin to the wall?

I just went thru this yesterday.

I was already doing drywall work in the bathroom, so I pulled out a section of wall behind where the sink would be fastened. Added 2x6 blocking between the studs so that the sink would bolt into the 2x6, instead of just the drywall. My original goal was to use the included lag bolts that came with the sink, but once everything was installed it was REALLY hard to get enough torque on the bolts to start them (from underneath the already cramped pedestal sink basin area). I switched over to using toggle bolts instead, and it worked fine.

A tip: if you look on the back of your sink basin, where the bolts need to go thru, see if there are indentations around the holes.....there were on mine, so I used regualr toggle bolts but replaced the bolt portion with threaded rod (short lenghts available at HD, Lowes, etc). Then I ran a rubber washer, metal washer and hex nut down on the rod before putting the sink on. This allowed the toggle bolt to be nice and tight, which meant the threaded rod wouldnt move around during sink installation. It also means you wont lose the toggles behind the wall if you ever need to remove the sink. Once that was all set I installed the sink and used metal washers and a hex nut to tighten it to the wall. The all thread made the job a lot simpler than using lag bolts.......even if you dont have the indentations behind the sink (I only wanted them there so the hex nut i added wouldnt interfere with the sink being flush with the wall), the all thread idea is probably a good bet to at least try.

After using this method the sink is so secure it doesnt even really need the pedestal (obviously I put it there anyway its just nice to know the sink is safe enough should somethign happen to the pedestal)

I want to be able to install a 2x6 but there is a pvc pipe running right behind the area where the sink needs to go. I was questioning whether or not using toggle bolts in drywall would be safe. The video link I posted shows the installers using a toggle bolt in drywall because they couldn't hit a stud on one side.

The original pedestal sink that we had was installed to the wall using plastic anchors. After seeing those, I would have to say that toggle bolts are at least a few steps better than that.

Take a look at these: http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php

Lowes should have them (they do around me anyway). They are a step or two above regular toggles in that you dont lose the toggle if you remove the bolt and they hold a lot more weight. Cheap too.....~3 bux for 2 of them and they come with 2.25" long bolts too. I used the 1/4"-20 version for 1 of the holes on my pedestal sink (long story about why not for both) Do note that you need about 2" of clearance behind the wall after its drilled for the toggle to open.

After using them I would be more than satisfied with them in place of regular toggles without any backing behind the drywall. Obviously more backing is better, but you do what you can.

Sounds good. I'll give it a try. Thanks for all your help.

The toggle bolts will hold the bowl in place while the silicone sets up. Use a top quality silicone on the pedestal to floor, pedestal to bowl and bowl to wall connections. Lay a good bead on the top of the pedestal where it meets the bowl, then connect everything up and snug the bowl to the wall with whatever fasteners you decide on. Now run a nice bead around the base where it meets the flooring and where the bowl meets the wall.

It won't go anywhere once that sets up. Cordon off the area and give it a day to dry. Don't let little fingers muck with your nice neat silicone job. Tape the wall with painters tape about 1/4" above the where the top of the bowl meets the wall if you are not really smooth with a caulking gun. Smooth the bead out with a wet finger and peel off the tape.

Thanks for the tips. I will definitely use these instructions and report back.

Regarding a "Top Quality Silicone" caulk. Which brands do you suggest?

I usually grab GE Silicone II

Ok the sink is in. There are no leaks. I'm just letting the caulk set. Thank you to everyone for all of your help. Now on to the other 1000 things on my list.

PS. That caulk you suggested is some serious stuff. It is exactly what I needed.

Yep, good stuff. And stinky. Good (real) silicone is smelly when wet.