Cycle Stop Valve questions

I understand the principle of reducing pump cycles to extend pump life and ultimately save money. CSV also says they reduce pump current draw when throttled back to the 1 GPM rate on common household systems.

My question is filling up a 10 gal. pressure tank will take 1 minute if a well produces 10 GPM out of a say 1" line. With the CSV, it will take 10 minutes. So we can either pull 10 amps for 1 minute or 6 amps for 10 minutes with the CSV. (Just purely guessing how much current a sub pump pulls.) Isn't this actually increasing electricity usage?

Of course this depends on how you use water, GPM, over a long period of time.

I guess I'm just not 100% sold on the idea. Also, I figured I would see some installed around here but never have. Are they a relatively new product?

If you have a tank with 10 gallons of draw down, and a 40/60 pressure switch, then you set the CSV for 58 PSI. This will give you only one minute tank fill time, after you have turned off all the faucets. Texas is where I live. So there have been many thousands of CSV's installed here in the last 17 years. I will attach a few links but, you are not going to be sold on it until you see it work. I would not still be here after 17 years if they didn't work.

Here are a few links;


http://www.berryhillirrigation.com

http://www.polydrip.com/vendors.php

http://growerssolution.com/page/GS/PROD/csv1z

http://www.precisionpump.net/cyclestop.html

http://www.roguevalleypump.com/pages/whatwedo/pumps/cyclestop.html

http://www.schaeferbrospump.com/constantvalves.html

http://wellwaterinuse.com/cyclestopvalve-csv1w.aspx

http://www.ballardwaterwell.com/

http://www.kentuckyirrigation.com/

http://www.willeywelldrilling.com/results.php3?cat=CYCLE+STOP

http://www.doh.wa.gov/ehp//dw/DesignManual/chapter11.DOC

http://www.rapidrain.com/faq.html

http://www.kiesupply.com/vendorlist_irrigation.php

http://asae.frymulti.com/abstract.asp?aid=10157&t=2

http://wcsmfg.com/construction.html

http://www.dwwater.com/?p=13

http://www.mastgroup.net/mastirrigation/Lush_Lawns/commercial.html

www.wellmanager.com/pdf/HCBSS-210-EFMultiUnitSystems.pdf

Ok, that makes sense now that you mention it is set for 58 psi. Won't take long to reach 60 psi.

Are there still reasons for towns to put up regular water towers? Victoria put up a new one probably 6 years ago.

I probably would go for the brass version since some genius drilled the well 6' behind the house and put the pressure tank and softener in the garage and the valve would be in the garage. The original steel cased well is actually right next to the pressure tank in the garage. I have no clue why, it only freezes here like 10 nights a year.

TJanak said:

Are there still reasons for towns to put up regular water towers? Victoria put up a new one probably 6 years ago.

Click to expand...

50 years ago, water towers were the only way we new how to control big water systems. A lot of the regulations that say we have to use a water towers are also 50 years old. There is no longer any need for water towers or large pressure tanks. Not only are they no longer needed but, water towers are a false sense of security for fire protection, a potential place for contamination, and a huge waste of tax payer money. But the biggest problem with water towers and large pressure tanks is the water hammer that happens when the pump turns on and off to fill the tanks. Continually starting and stopping the pump according to the level in the water tower or big tank causes water hammer and breaks water lines. In many places as much as 40 to 50% of our water is lost to leaks in the piping system. Using constant pressure systems eliminates the need for the pumps to keep starting and stopping, which eliminates water leaks, and can save a big percentage of the water we are now wasting.