You need to lower the wall stub out to 15"
Water goes downhill, unless you have the wall stub out at 22"
Then it will just set in your disposer.
I'm trying to clean up the original and patched work done under my sink (90year old house). My wall stub out is approx 22 in off of the floor( with bad threads so I'm using a rubber sleeve). My disposer in on a 9" deep sink Thwe other side is 10.5 " deep. I have always got a little water up the other sink drain only when the disposer was full of water and I turned it on. The water is not too bad, it's the smell that I don't like in my kitchen. The T on the disposer is definately a diverter T. The Wall Stub is behind the disposal at about the same height as the discharge. The clear tubing is the dishwasher drain. The black tibing is connected from the disposer to the air gap. Do I need to lower the wall drain, move the disposer to the other side, I really don't want to loose my disposer. Any help will be appreciated. I'm also having problems with the fittings on the white trap leaking a little bit.
Last edited by bpetey; 01-12-2010 at 09:03 PM. Reason: added picture
Thank you Terry, this is a great site for good information. Other than lowering the drain, do I need to reconfigure any of the other pipes?
I would run it like the drawing.do I need to reconfigure any of the other pipes?
From the disposer into a baffle tee.
And then down to the p-trap.
The first slip joint nut that gets fully tightened is the swivel nut.
The wall opening appears to be slightly lower than the disposer outlet, but all of the other piping is below it, which means they are ALWAYS full of water. Throw it all away and install a new system the way Terry's drawing shows it. That will drain better, although a lower pipe in the wall would be optimal yours will work.
Thanks HJ, the picture might be a little deceiving as the disposer outlet is 1/2" lower than the wall drain. Moving the drain down is definitely possible but a difficult job. The cabinate has a back and I have granite counters so moving the cabinate could be very costly.
If the home is 90 years old, then the waste may be vertical in the wall.
That wouldn't be so hard to cut the tee out and lower it.
If the trap arm goes horizontal, that would be tougher.
Please, anytime you guys do a complete kitchen remodel with new cabinets, lower the plumbing first before closing up walls.
If you have a disposer, the trap arm needs to be at 19" from the floor with a 7" sink,
And 16" for a 10" sink.
Most old homes had the trap arm at 22", which only works with 7" sinks without a disposal.
And yes, even guys in the trades mess up on this.
Just got a call last week from a very good finish carpenter about this very thing.
I only had the granite installed. The newcabinates were already in when I bought the house. Even if I put the cabinates in, I don't think I would have thought aout the drain. I will get the drain loswered on Tuesday next week. I have to wait until my GC brother in law comes over to help. A stroke left me with only one had to not use my saws-all. I'm asuming that I'll need to use rubber sleeves to lower the drain. Is it better to switch to an abs T at the same time?
Yes by all means go back with abs tee and p-trap :d
35 YEAR MASTER PLUMBER AND DRAINMAN
I finished lowering the wall drain today (My one good shoulder can sure use a rest). My next question is, do I put the trap at the bottom of the sink without disposal or do I put it at the wall stub?
arrange your piping to be as neat as possible.1) install garburator to deep sink well 2)install a new crumb cup(basket strainer) on shallow sink well 3) measure and cut pipe to fit from marvel on tail piece to 1.5" tee wye so that branch inlet on tee wye lines up with garb outlet 4) measure and cut pipe to fit from 1.25"x1.5" marvel to 1.5" tee wye inlet(pipe travelling from garb to tee wye) 5) measure and cut pipe to fit from outlet of 1.5" tee wye to inlet of p-trap w/union nut(measurment acheived by lining up the outlet of the p-trap with wall inlet and measuring the gap) 6)measure and cut pipe to fit from outlet of trap to wall inlet 7) now glue it all together once you are satisfied that it is properly fit up and will look neat when finished
just curious if you noticed a vent on the piping in the wall. in the old days they s-trapped and did not vent. you may be getting sewer gas into your dwelling, in the event there is no vent the possibility of losing the trap seal is great due to induced siphonnage.
good luck! i would normally charge 150$ with material to install.
When all else fails, jumper out!
WHY would you move the disposer to the LARGE sink, when the smaller one is usually designed for the disposer. Moving it to the large sink would also lower its connection even more. I am not sure what you are doing for $150.00, but it could not be what is needed to make this system work. If the wall pipe is higher than the disposer outlet, there will ALWAYS be water in it. This will accelerate the disposers failure AND cause vibration when it is initially turned on as it pumps the water out.
Normally the trap goes on the sink opposite the disposer.
However, if you have grade for it, and you have kept the 90 bend on the disposer, you can place the tee there and route the deeper sink toward the tee.