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Thread: Choosing model series from Rheem and Bradford White

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member HDClown's Avatar
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    Default Choosing model series from Rheem and Bradford White

    Greetings all. I am in the process of trying to finalize if I'm going to get a new tank, or go tankless, to replace an 18 year old Champion branded 40 gallon short-height (on an 18" pedestal) GAS hot water heater. So far, I'm leaning towards a new tank, and upgrading to a 50 gallon. I can fit a short height on the pedestal or a full height one without. This is for residential use. I'm located in Orlando, FL area, and my water heater is in my garage, and my house has been repiped with PEX. Current HWH is atmospheric vented through the roof (single story home)

    I've confirmed with plumbers I don'tneed an expansion tank added based on my county water supply (do not have one currently for that matter). I've contacted a few plumbers thus far who carry Rheem, State, Rudd, and A.O. Smith. Based on research on the forum, of those 4 brands, it seems I should go with Rheem. I also see Bradford White is popular and I've found a local dealer for them (who has previously quoted me on a tankless).

    So, to make sure I'm getting pricing quoted appropriately. I want to verify what model line of Rheem and Bradford White I should be focusing on, and any tips to decypher the model lines, as I'm having a hard time figuring that out based on the manuf. websites.
    Last edited by HDClown; 01-14-2010 at 01:44 PM.

  2. #2
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking Rheem is good, very, very good

    the Rheem guadian is a good water heater,,
    with the 6 year warranty...

    the Rheem Pro has an 8 year warranty and you
    get the 100 tax rebate with it..

    the problem with the PRO is is it a huge heater and might nit fit where you presently ahve one...

    I would just go with the normal guardinan unit......
    --------------------------------------------------------------


    Bradford White is starting to give me a small rash....
    which I hope does not turn into a full blown problem...
    I hate it whan that happens cause it usually cost me a lot of time and money....

    I am starting to have issues with the Bradford White heaters due to the new ICON valves they are now starting to use...

    the Bradford White Icon appears to OK, but it is much , much more complicated valve and it is not as user freindly as just the common thermostat that is on the Rheem valve,.,

    I just tangled with an ICON valve on a brand new 40 gallon short gas , a few days ago and ended up just changeing out a brand new heater cause I could not get parts quickly to make repairs to the new heater..
    ..
    to me , thats called the beginnings of a rash.....

    I would rather keep things simple like they havebeen for decades., now, and I am leaning twoards the Rheem again....

    I am finding that the Rheem is certainly more DIY freindly and you can make your own repairs to it over the Bradford...

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member vtxdude's Avatar
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    Mark- Can you share what was the issue with the Icon gas valve?

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    Sounds like Mark just needs a little Tech Training.

    http://www.bradfordwhite.com/icon.asp

    It's cake!

  5. #5
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Default redwood you are right

    yes mr redwood, that might be right,,,

    you should write an article on it and I will gladly read it all from top
    top bottom...

    and I have watched the videos on teh bradford site already

    as far as problems go, it wont be a problem once we
    get enough FREE parts on hand to take care of troubles that might arise

    it cost me 135 per repair pack today,
    I bought two of them for my trucks


    all I know is if you are out installing a heater and you shut it off
    to show the customer how to re-light it and it wont come back on

    you got troubles.... and their are not parts for 18 miles around you..

    I decided to just change it out instead of standing there with my thumb in my ass trying to make reapirs without parts...


    you just go get another heater , change it out and move on



    I am just going to have to tear into a few of them
    top to bottom...


    but I do no tlike the fact that they are not DIY freindly

    you cant just change out s simple thermocouopling here...

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member vtxdude's Avatar
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    Not trying to pry Mark but was there a particular issue with the Icon valve itself?

    *****Edit*****


    Ok I see now....would not come back on after turning it off...


    You know the plumber had a heck of a time relighting mine too....seemed like it took him about 25 clicks before the thing would come on...hmmmmmm


    One would think one click and on?
    Last edited by vtxdude; 01-14-2010 at 06:16 PM.

  7. #7
    DIY Member dargo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HDClown View Post
    Greetings all. I am in the process of trying to finalize if I'm going to get a new tank, or go tankless, to replace an 18 year old Champion branded 40 gallon short-height (on an 18" pedestal) GAS hot water heater. So far, I'm leaning towards a new tank, and upgrading to a 50 gallon. I can fit a short height on the pedestal or a full height one without. This is for residential use. I'm located in Orlando, FL area, and my water heater is in my garage, and my house has been repiped with PEX. Current HWH is atmospheric vented through the roof (single story home)

    I've confirmed with plumbers I don'tneed an expansion tank added based on my county water supply (do not have one currently for that matter). I've contacted a few plumbers thus far who carry Rheem, State, Rudd, and A.O. Smith. Based on research on the forum, of those 4 brands, it seems I should go with Rheem. I also see Bradford White is popular and I've found a local dealer for them (who has previously quoted me on a tankless).

    So, to make sure I'm getting pricing quoted appropriately. I want to verify what model line of Rheem and Bradford White I should be focusing on, and any tips to decypher the model lines, as I'm having a hard time figuring that out based on the manuf. websites.
    For me, if you read the manual and follow it, screens etc all will last a long time.

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