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Thread: Schrader vlalve on check valve

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Strick's Avatar
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    Default Schrader vlalve on check valve

    Thanks to the nice weather here in Katy and the Houston area I had a small problem with freezing. The well line is above ground where it comes out of the well head and from what I deduced was the check valve froze yesterday. I got it thawed out but now when the pump cycles on water shoots out of the schrader valve.

    I hoping this would as easy as just replacing the schrader valve but I am not sure it is exactly what the purpose of the schrader is.

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    I am assuming that you have a bladder type pressure tank and the schrader valve you are referring to is on the pressure tank. Water from the schrader valve on a bladder pressure tank means the bladder has failed and must be replaced. With most bladder type pressure tanks the tank is replaced when the bladder fails.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member Strick's Avatar
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    No the schrader valve I am reffering to is on the check valve on the well line where it exits the well, not on the pressure tank. The system is working fine once I got it thawed other than some water coming out the schrader valve and making it pretty wet around the well since I am making sure the well cycles every so often.

    It looks kinda like this.


  4. #4
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    The schrader valve is used to put air into your water tank. If you have a bladder tank it is not needed and can be plugged. Use a brass plug. For a temporary fix you can put a tire stem cap on it.

    John
    Last edited by johnjh2o1; 01-09-2010 at 10:26 AM.

  5. #5
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snake View Post
    If he has a schrader valve, then most likely he has a galvanized tank and not a bladder tank (I like the slip of the tounge... "blabber tank").

    Tell us what your pressure tank looks like, i.e. does it have a schrader valve on it, does it have a fitting about 2/3 the way up on the tank, etc.

    If you have a galvanized tank, then you need the schrader valve, it needs to be for a well, not a tire.

    It will work for a while with just the valve capped.

    Snake
    What I said was he can use a tire cap on the schrader for a temporary fix.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member Strick's Avatar
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    The tank is about 5' tall, metal with a bottom inlet and outlet. Half way up is a fitting with the pressure guage. At the top is another small fitting that is just a plug. In the middles of the top of the tank is plug.

    When I discoverd the problem I was on the way out and heard hissing from the pressure tank (it is n the garage). The pressure was dropping but the tank was not refilling. I figured the supply line was blocke so I went out armed with hair driers and a propane torch. When I heated up the check valve water started shooting out of the schrader valve and after a while the tank pressured back up. Every thing is working fine I am just getting a little soggy around the well head for now.

    I am just new to having all my well stuff just sitting above ground. I am from MD and livedin Chicago for a while and everything was always underground, well except the pressure tank obvioulsy.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member Strick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snake View Post
    You don't have a bladder tank, you have a galvanized tank.

    No sometimes they bury the pressure tank also, makes it real fun to fix.

    Snake
    Ok then, that sounds like real fun.

    The house is only 3.5 years old but we have only been here about 1.5 of them so I am still finding out things.

    I guess once the cold weather blows out I will just put a new schrader valve in the check valve. Is there anything else I need to do, recharge any the air or anything after I remove and replace the bad one? and can I cap it for a few days until I get it fixed? Am I to assume that is where you charge the air in tank? That seems odd since it is about 60' or so from the house.

    It is odd to me because I can hear it hissing if I walk by it after the well runs (this is under normal conditions like last summer)

    Thanks for the info.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member Strick's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info, now I have a good idea how it all works. That would also explain the loud "gurgle" when the pressure tank fills since it is also filling with some air. Clears things up a bit.

    Now all I need to do is find a place to get the snifter valve and hope that the old one is not cemented in with tons of pipe dope.

    And again water coming out after it froze is not a problem, other than being a pain, correct.


    Thanks again.
    Last edited by Strick; 01-09-2010 at 04:08 PM.

  9. #9
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    You need a new check valve and Schrader valve. Air goes IN thru the Schrader. If water goes out your check valve is leaking. There is NO pressure on the Schrader valve side of your check valve when the pump is NOT running. You are pushing water back down the well.

  10. #10
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Also, snake said the bleeder valve in the well sucks air in. That is not correct. The bleeder valve is closed or partially so when the pump runs. When the pump shuts OFF, the bleeder valve in the well opens and allows air IN from the Schrader valve, and water runs OUT from the bleeder. In the old days that "bleeder valve" might have been a tiny drilled hole in the pipe.

    A tire pressure gauge on the Schrader valve will read zero a few moments or minutes after pump shut off if the check valve is working correctly.

    If his Schrader leaks ONLY when the pump is on, its ONLY that valve, not the C.Valve.

    PS you can remove the innards of the Schrader with a valve stem tool and fix it without removal of the whole thing. In fact most caps ARE stem removers when reversed!

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member Strick's Avatar
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    Thanks

    Yes, it only leaks when the pump is on. I was going totry to switch out the core first. That seems a lot easier.

  12. #12
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    I know you knew how it worked. Just trying to get the thing cleaned up so the guy could get it right in his head. And indeed, he should go to the well shop and get the valve core, although one from a tire might work depending on how much "suction" is developed. I do the bleeder and schrader above ground and very close together, so the air add is small and I do not use the problematic tank bleed off valve.

    Probably he just has a mysterious booger stuck in the valve stem anyway.

  13. #13
    Porky Cutter,MGWC Porky's Avatar
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    To work properly be sure to replace the schrader valve with a "Well Schrader Valve" from a well supplier or a well driller because the stem is a special stem with a weak spring. I recommend that you unscrew the schrader valve using only a box end wrench to prevent mashing the old valve and replace the valve the same way.

    NOTE: Your friendly local driller may give you the proper core to replace the leaking one!

    Porky, MGWC
    www.dci-inc.us

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