Need to Move Tub/Shower 1" - Dont see anyway around it

**mehlhorn** · 01-06-2010, 06:08 PM

Hello All.

I am glad to see a forum that supports DIYers out there, and hope that I can receive some guidance from the members.

I am in the middle of a bathroom reno and am ready to install the new tub. I have replaced a tub before, but had no issues as both were standard sizes.

The previous shower surround was the plastic 4 or 5 piece kit - being replaced with ceremic tile. The length of the shower was on the cinder block firewall dividing the semi-detatched home. As a result, the studs used previously are only 3/4" thick! With the new weight of concrete board and the ceremic tile, I believe I have no choice but to beef up the studs to 2inches. ( i wouldnt want my mother in law to get crushed

)

That is where my problems start, if i add an inch to the studs, it will throw off the center line for the drain and plumbing to tub and shower which is exhisting. What is the easiest way to adjust the tub/shower plumbing over by one inch?

Thanks for reading my post, and I look forward to your input.

Thanks,

Mike

**Hackney plumbing** · 01-06-2010, 06:29 PM

Originally Posted by mehlhorn

Hello All.

I am glad to see a forum that supports DIYers out there, and hope that I can receive some guidance from the members.

I am in the middle of a bathroom reno and am ready to install the new tub. I have replaced a tub before, but had no issues as both were standard sizes.

The previous shower surround was the plastic 4 or 5 piece kit - being replaced with ceremic tile. The length of the shower was on the cinder block firewall dividing the semi-detatched home. As a result, the studs used previously are only 3/4" thick! With the new weight of concrete board and the ceremic tile, I believe I have no choice but to beef up the studs to 2inches. ( i wouldnt want my mother in law to get crushed

)

That is where my problems start, if i add an inch to the studs, it will throw off the center line for the drain and plumbing to tub and shower which is exhisting. What is the easiest way to adjust the tub/shower plumbing over by one inch?

Thanks for reading my post, and I look forward to your input.

Thanks,

Mike

Use tapcon screws and screw the concrete board through the 3/4" strips and into the block wall. Dont move the plumbing.

**mehlhorn** · 01-06-2010, 06:58 PM

Thanks Hackney Plumbing.

Are tapcon screws stong enough? I thought they were for medium duty applications and would have thought that the weight of a concrete board with the mud and tiles would be heavy duty?

What would you recommend for spacing between the tapcon screws, and what length of tapcon? washers?

thanks again,

mike

**jadnashua** · 01-06-2010, 07:09 PM

The vast majority of the load in in shear, not tension. You don't need to worry about it. As long as the firring strips are well attached to the wall, you have nothing to worry about. The firring strips on the wall are plenty strong enough. I'd just use the stock cbu screws into the firring strips. Or, you could go a different way and use the Kerdi system...you'd put up drywall, then cover it with the Kerdi. See www.schluter.com for a video and info on that. Check out www.johnbridge.com for help on tiling.

**Hackney plumbing** · 01-06-2010, 08:31 PM

Originally Posted by mehlhorn

Thanks Hackney Plumbing.

Are tapcon screws stong enough? I thought they were for medium duty applications and would have thought that the weight of a concrete board with the mud and tiles would be heavy duty?

What would you recommend for spacing between the tapcon screws, and what length of tapcon? washers?

thanks again,

mike

Tapcons are plenty strong enough for a tile wall if spaced properly and thats why I will refer you to Tapcon for the proper screw lenght and spacing. I'm sure they have info online. Goodluck!

**jadnashua** · 01-07-2010, 07:04 AM

The reason a stand alone wall uses 2x4 studs is otherwise it would flex too much if you pushed on it. The firring strips on the concrete block wall aren't going to flex. You're worried about nothing. If anything, I'd consider using some Tapcon screws to ensure the firring strips are well attached, but other than that, get on with it. You could add some new firring strips, using construction adhesive and some tapcons if you felt the need, but it isn't required.

**GabeS** · 01-07-2010, 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by jadnashua

The reason a stand alone wall uses 2x4 studs is otherwise it would flex too much if you pushed on it. The firring strips on the concrete block wall aren't going to flex. You're worried about nothing. If anything, I'd consider using some Tapcon screws to ensure the firring strips are well attached, but other than that, get on with it. You could add some new firring strips, using construction adhesive and some tapcons if you felt the need, but it isn't required.

Totally agree.