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Thread: Need to Move Tub/Shower 1" - Dont see anyway around it

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member mehlhorn's Avatar
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    Default Need to Move Tub/Shower 1" - Dont see anyway around it

    Hello All.

    I am glad to see a forum that supports DIYers out there, and hope that I can receive some guidance from the members.

    I am in the middle of a bathroom reno and am ready to install the new tub. I have replaced a tub before, but had no issues as both were standard sizes.

    The previous shower surround was the plastic 4 or 5 piece kit - being replaced with ceremic tile. The length of the shower was on the cinder block firewall dividing the semi-detatched home. As a result, the studs used previously are only 3/4" thick! With the new weight of concrete board and the ceremic tile, I believe I have no choice but to beef up the studs to 2inches. ( i wouldnt want my mother in law to get crushed )

    That is where my problems start, if i add an inch to the studs, it will throw off the center line for the drain and plumbing to tub and shower which is exhisting. What is the easiest way to adjust the tub/shower plumbing over by one inch?

    Thanks for reading my post, and I look forward to your input.

    Thanks,

    Mike

  2. #2
    Homeowner
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    Quote Originally Posted by mehlhorn View Post
    Hello All.

    I am glad to see a forum that supports DIYers out there, and hope that I can receive some guidance from the members.

    I am in the middle of a bathroom reno and am ready to install the new tub. I have replaced a tub before, but had no issues as both were standard sizes.

    The previous shower surround was the plastic 4 or 5 piece kit - being replaced with ceremic tile. The length of the shower was on the cinder block firewall dividing the semi-detatched home. As a result, the studs used previously are only 3/4" thick! With the new weight of concrete board and the ceremic tile, I believe I have no choice but to beef up the studs to 2inches. ( i wouldnt want my mother in law to get crushed )

    That is where my problems start, if i add an inch to the studs, it will throw off the center line for the drain and plumbing to tub and shower which is exhisting. What is the easiest way to adjust the tub/shower plumbing over by one inch?

    Thanks for reading my post, and I look forward to your input.

    Thanks,

    Mike
    Use tapcon screws and screw the concrete board through the 3/4" strips and into the block wall. Dont move the plumbing.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member mehlhorn's Avatar
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    Default Tapcon

    Thanks Hackney Plumbing.

    Are tapcon screws stong enough? I thought they were for medium duty applications and would have thought that the weight of a concrete board with the mud and tiles would be heavy duty?

    What would you recommend for spacing between the tapcon screws, and what length of tapcon? washers?

    thanks again,

    mike

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    The vast majority of the load in in shear, not tension. You don't need to worry about it. As long as the firring strips are well attached to the wall, you have nothing to worry about. The firring strips on the wall are plenty strong enough. I'd just use the stock cbu screws into the firring strips. Or, you could go a different way and use the Kerdi system...you'd put up drywall, then cover it with the Kerdi. See www.schluter.com for a video and info on that. Check out www.johnbridge.com for help on tiling.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Homeowner
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mehlhorn View Post
    Thanks Hackney Plumbing.

    Are tapcon screws stong enough? I thought they were for medium duty applications and would have thought that the weight of a concrete board with the mud and tiles would be heavy duty?

    What would you recommend for spacing between the tapcon screws, and what length of tapcon? washers?

    thanks again,

    mike
    Tapcons are plenty strong enough for a tile wall if spaced properly and thats why I will refer you to Tapcon for the proper screw lenght and spacing. I'm sure they have info online. Goodluck!

  6. #6
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The reason a stand alone wall uses 2x4 studs is otherwise it would flex too much if you pushed on it. The firring strips on the concrete block wall aren't going to flex. You're worried about nothing. If anything, I'd consider using some Tapcon screws to ensure the firring strips are well attached, but other than that, get on with it. You could add some new firring strips, using construction adhesive and some tapcons if you felt the need, but it isn't required.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #7
    Remodel Contractor GabeS's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    The reason a stand alone wall uses 2x4 studs is otherwise it would flex too much if you pushed on it. The firring strips on the concrete block wall aren't going to flex. You're worried about nothing. If anything, I'd consider using some Tapcon screws to ensure the firring strips are well attached, but other than that, get on with it. You could add some new firring strips, using construction adhesive and some tapcons if you felt the need, but it isn't required.
    Totally agree.
    Gabe

    Don't follow my advice, I only know a thing or two about a thing or two.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member mehlhorn's Avatar
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    Default

    Hey everyone,

    wont the tapcon screws protrude from the tile backer and interfere with the tiling?

    Mike

  9. #9
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mehlhorn View Post
    Hey everyone,
    wont the tapcon screws protrude from the tile backer and interfere with the tiling?
    Mike
    You are thinking of the hex-head type. The ones you want are phillips-drive flat-head.

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