How to remove a cast iron tub

Terry said:

But if you're in Canada, I see your point.
Canadians are always coming down to buy toilets from me.

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Yeah, the CI tubs up here are ridiculously high, even with the discount and the rate of exchange

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You lift the back of the tub to rotate it onto its apron, sliding the tub back as you go if there is an obstruction. When it is on its side, your "rotate" it so one of the front corners goes into the space between the studs. Then you start swinging the opposite end out into the room pushing the one end further between the studs as you do so. Eventually, the one end will be in the room and you can do whatever you want to with the tub.

hj
10/4 on that; you explained it perfectly.. I'll see how that works for me.

Thank you, FJK

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Two advantages to taking the tub out intact, is that you now know the new one will fit, and you also know how to get it in there by just reversing the process.

Very true hj,but i'm just removing the tub...the plumber's installing the new one after i'm done with the demo.

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Still, if you CANNOT get the tub out of the recess, for whatever reason, (sometimes the tub was installed first and the capenters notched the studs to fit it, for example), the plumber will not be able to get the new one in either.

OK thanks for the info...very imformative.

I'll try your technique first hj..if that doesn't go smooth I'm busting out the sledge.

Thank again.

Unless I'm missing something, I don't think I can use hj's method of tub removal, by rolling it on its apron. Reason being, the apron is 14" tall, which would make it 14" wide when sitting on the apron. I don't have 14" of wall cavity to partially sneak the tub in to. However, now that I'm typing this, I'm thinking I only need to get an edge of the apron in.......hmmm?? Anyhow, on the drain side of the tube there is water pipes & a vent taking up real estate in the wall cavities. Also the tub spout (i.e. copper pipe) & the sweated in shower valve rough in is protruding into the tub area. This I could cut out & cap because I'm installing a new rough-in valve. Opposite the drain side of the tub, I have double & triple studs, also dimishing the space between studs to snake the tub apron.

Maybe I need to take a break while 1 of you guys sets me straight.

Later, FJK

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You will not know if it works until you try it. You do NOT stick the WHOLE tub into the space between the studs, just the corner of the tub as you rotate it. All I can tell you is that I have removed EVERY tub I have ever had to, and have NEVER busted a tub to do it.

So hj,you remove these tubs by yourself and get it down a flight of stairs and in to a truck?

Well, got the tub out tonight in one piece. I couldn't roll the tub out on the apron as hj suggested, so I basically reversed Terry's installation procedure. I lifted up the end opposite the drain & started putting a 2X4 under the apron. Then I used another 2X4 as a lever until I had 4 2X4 stacked under the apron. Then I cheated & got my son & 1 of his friends and we lifted the end of the tub up until it was vertical with drain side down & walked it out of the alcove. After that, we kept the tub laid down on the apron & ulitmately slid it down a flight of carpeted stairs & loaded it into a pick up.

I didn't use hj's rollout method because I could not roll the tub by myself & I already had it jacked up on the 2X4's when my help arrived. Even if I had the help to try the roll out, I was so limited on room that we would have had to continually push the apron back toward the wall as the tub was being rolled. With only 5" of slide out space, I'm not sure that was doable.

The part I don't understand is why the old villager tube was installed with a ledger board, since it sits of 4 legs anyhow. My new villager cast iron tub that I installed in my other bath had instructions that eluded to there is no need for a ledger board. Oh, & check this out, my existing ledger board is a 2X6! I think that would also add more difficulty to the roll out method.

Thanks everyone for your help.
FJK

i agree with terry, full on demo mode here. unless they are planning on using it as a flower pot in the garden or something!

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As I said, I have ALWAYS been able to roll the tubs out. The size of the ledger board has nothing to do with anything. The legs only work until the floor under them flexes and then the joint at the back edge will start to show cracking. Every Kohler tub I have installed always gives a dimension for the height of the ledger board.

Every plumber I know installs tubs with a ledger board.

Good explaination for the need of a ledger board hj. I did keep one in place for the first tub I installed & will continue to do so with the second one. Thanks.

Yes, I could be wrong with what I thought the Kohler instructions said. I will reread them.

Yes, this old Kohler tub had a ledger board. The tub was in good shape until I took a hammer to it.

Just call a moving company..... save your back

tileman2000 said:

happy new year plumbers....!

Now for my question.I'm going to be tearing out 3 walls and a tub next week.The tub is cast iron so what is the best way to remove it?The homeowner doesn't want me to break the tub apart so that should be interesting.Also,what has to be removed..the drain and overflow plates?How are those removed?Thanks for the patience..!

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Smash it there will be clean up with the walls anyways