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Thread: Moving a water closet

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
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    Unhappy Moving a water closet

    Hello,

    I am remodeling an 8x10 bathroom and am moving the toilet about 6 feet away from the 3" stack where it was. I will have to tie in after the new long 90 abs sweep. This will leave me with too great a slope. I am thinking I will have to put a short extension below the closet flange, before the sweep towards the main, and then keep it at 1/4 " per foot until the Y. Am I correct, or is there a better way? Also, excuse my ignorance but how do you get a slope from a 90 degree fitting anyway? This probably makes no sense at all.

    I would appreciate any advice,

    Red

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    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Red107 View Post
    Hello,

    I am remodeling an 8x10 bathroom and am moving the toilet about 6 feet away from the 3" stack where it was. I will have to tie in after the new long 90 abs sweep. This will leave me with too great a slope. I am thinking I will have to put a short extension below the closet flange, before the sweep towards the main, and then keep it at 1/4 " per foot until the Y. Am I correct, or is there a better way? Also, excuse my ignorance but how do you get a slope from a 90 degree fitting anyway? This probably makes no sense at all.

    I would appreciate any advice,

    Red
    Yes you should maintain 1/4" per foot on the drainage. Lengthening the piece out of the flange is the best way to do that!!

    You get slope out of a 90* fitting by either gluing the pipe in a bit crooked or rotating the fitting a hair.

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    Thanks for the help, but I'm still a bit confused. Rotating a 90 still leaves it a 90 does it not? Please clarify, and thanks again.

    Red

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default slope

    Unless you are using screwed/threaded pipes for the drain, you can tilt the pipe in the fitting to get almost any slope you need. WE are not clear about what you are trying to do, and therefore do not know if you are even doing it correctly, because your "tying in after the new long sweep 90" could mean anything, especially a WRONG anything. WE would need a drawing or picture, to be sure.

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    [IMG]013.jpg[/IMG]

    This is the existing closet flange which will be replaced. The 2 inch line comes from the kitchen. The new flange will be 6' away above the kitchen line. I will have to reroute the 2inch line a bit further down the 3 inch main to allow for the new toilet line. Does that help?

    Thanks
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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default toilet

    Not really. Which way is the toilet going to move? Are you planning to install a new fitting for it, or extend from the existing opening? How, or why, are you moving the sink line? On the surface, I am guessing what you have in mind may NOT be the proper way to do it.

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    I am going to cut the 3" stack above the base plate and convert it to ABS going down to a long sweep 90. The cast iron flange will be removed, and the 3" main will also be ABS. The new ABS closet flange is to be 6' towards the bottom of the picture. It will have to tie in where the 2 " does now, and I will connect the 2" a liitle farther down. BTW, that is just a cleanout going back below the cast iron flange. I hope that explains it, and again, I appreciate the help.
    Last edited by Red107; 12-22-2009 at 08:43 AM.

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default toilet

    I might do it differently. I might just repipe it so the tee could be a bit lower, then install the new pipe from the toilet going into an elbow and then into the tee. That would eliminate any revisions to the sink drain or main line. The cleanout down there was strictly cosmetic, to make someone feel good, because it would be completely useless for clearing the drain line. It should be in the riser pipe above the floor when a plumber could access it if necessary.

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    I'm not clear on what you mean by lowering the T? Do you mean the 3" santee the closet flange currently connects to? I am also replacing about 6 " of the 2 " cast iron with ABS, so I can do just about anything with it.
    Thanks

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    Yes. When you remove the "Y", because it is not needed there, then with the proper revision a new tee will fit low enough so that it will have the proper slope to reach the new toilet location. In order to get the pipe as high as possible, use a 4x3 spigot closet bend for the toilet. You do NOT have to use the entire 4" spigot end. Cut it off as necessary to raise the pipe, and still have the flange at floor level.

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    Red face

    Thanks very much for the help. On an unrelated note, and my last questions (I promise);
    Are sharkbite fittings dependable enough to use under the house? I have a couple of tight spots that would be a bear to solder. i also forgot to deburr the 1/2" pipe on my last two solder joints. Am I doomed to redo them, or will they be alright?

    Thanks again for providing this forum.

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    Hi,

    I am finally ready to redo my drains and would like to know if my plan seems okay. This drawing (sorry) shows what will replace the cast iron posted earlier. I am basically lowering the existing Tee about 1.5" and tying in with a 3' elbow as shown. My concern is the 6 ft. distance, which then turns into the T, down to the 4" main and out. Will I have a problem with a low flow toilet making the turn ? That's why I'm using 3" ABS for the 6" run and the T.
    I hope this make sense.

    Thanks,

    Brian
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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default toilet

    You should be fine.

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