Toto Aquia dual flush toilet product review, comments and posts.

Users who are viewing this thread

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,946
Reaction score
3,460
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
We always shim the back of the bowl and push the front down to the floor.
We do not shim the front unless there is no other way.
Coins do not work well.
We use plastic door shims that are six inches long.
They have a much smoother taper and snap off easily.
After that, we caulk with Clear PolySeamSeal.

Installation instructions for Aquia

Complete Instructions for the Aquia written by Jamie

shim_it.jpg


loctite-tub-tile.jpg
 
Last edited:

Arnsberg

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Response to ---Urine smell from the Aquai Toto toliet

Thank you for responding to my question. Your answer makes sense . I forgot
to mention that our floor is like beach stones and I recollect that it was challenging to level the toliet . We had to put in a shim and then my husband caulked with silicone. Yes, I think there have been a few misses with urine.

At least you have cleared up there being any issue with the toliet.

Thank you.
Arnsberg
 

Newmark

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Problem with Aquia doing half-flush only?

I have three Toto Aquias ( type I) in my home and they all do the .9 gallon half flush regardless of which button is pressed. All of them flushed fine after I installed them but after a few months they started doing this.

When taking the lid off the tank, I see no problem with how the button pins align with the internal buttons on the flush tower (although they are a bit short as another person mentioned). If I operate the internal buttons without the lid on, sometimes it flushes properly. But sometimes not and I can see the blue cup rise in the flush tower when the full flush button is pressed and this is supposed to happen only for the half flush.

When I remove the flush tower and fiddle with the buttons, both the stopper mechanisms seem to work just fine.

We have very soft water here and there are no obvious mineral deposits.
Anyone seen this problem?

thanks
 

JustM

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
I've got my Acquia II. I've taken out my old toilet (a first). I've tiled the bathroom (just vinyl tiles...the toilet took most of my budget...over concrete). I've been planning on having the plumber install the toilet. However, I'm not sure, having studied this thread, who has the advantage: me, who's studied this thread but never installed a toilet, or the plumber, who's installed thousands of toilets but never THIS kind of toilet. I did ask him about it. He said he'd heard good things. He said no problem, but he knew he was going to have to drill into the slab. It's not his favorite thing to do, but no problem.

Honestly, that's the scariest thing to me...drilling into the slab. What if the holes aren't straight? What if they're off a bit?

I think between the instructions, this thread, and general 'how to install a toilet' instructions, I'm pretty well off.

I wish the instructions were Acquia II specific. I've gone through and crossed out the stuff pertaining to the A I.

One other concern: the tank bolts.
In post 37 of this thread, Terry said that they sand the inside of the tank where the bolts connect. Every time? And why? Make it rougher to get a better seal? Make it less thick?

Others talk about tightening them...a lot. That scares me too. I don't want to break it. But I also don't want leaks.

I'll probably fire away other questions/concerns. Any bits of advice or answers to the questions wedged into my post are appreciated.

Complete Instructions for the Aquia written by Jamie
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,771
Reaction score
1,191
Points
113
Location
New England
The porcelain after casting, will have a little roughness to it. Using some fine sandpaper will smooth it off, making it easier for the gasket to seal without undue pressure. This is true of any toilet...you probably don't need to do it, but it only takes 10-seconds, so why not?

The Aquia comes with a template to show you where to drill your holes. It's not rocket science. A new, nice and sharp carbide drill bit should drill a clean hole fairly easily. One thing I've noticed is that the plastic inserts they include seem to be sized for metric holes, and the equivalent inch-size is slightly small. I've just picked up some made for inch-size. Your results may differ...I haven't installed one for awhile, so don't know if that was a one-time or long-term situation. A hammer drill makes holes in concrete easier, but for 4-holes, not worth the expense unless you will have a use for it later...more tools are always nice! A regular one will work, especially with a new bit. Vacuum out the debris from the hole before you try to insert the fastener.
 

JustM

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
The porcelain after casting, will have a little roughness to it. Using some fine sandpaper will smooth it off, making it easier for the gasket to seal without undue pressure. This is true of any toilet...you probably don't need to do it, but it only takes 10-seconds, so why not?

Thanks. I just wanted to know why. I'd feel better doing it now.

The Aquia comes with a template to show you where to drill your holes. It's not rocket science. A new, nice and sharp carbide drill bit should drill a clean hole fairly easily. One thing I've noticed is that the plastic inserts they include seem to be sized for metric holes, and the equivalent inch-size is slightly small. I've just picked up some made for inch-size. Your results may differ...I haven't installed one for awhile, so don't know if that was a one-time or long-term situation. A hammer drill makes holes in concrete easier, but for 4-holes, not worth the expense unless you will have a use for it later...more tools are always nice! A regular one will work, especially with a new bit. Vacuum out the debris from the hole before you try to insert the fastener.

My house is made of block/brick. This would probably be the perfect excuse to get a hammer drill...but I think I'll just get a nice new bit. The vacuuming is a good tip.

Thanks again.
 

JIMANDTHOM

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
So far we are very happy with the Aquia

Installed an Aquia ii the last weekend in February, in the main bath, and unless the the performance starts to "crap" out another will be installed in our 3/4 bath this summer or fall. The installation over vinyl went very well, no runs, no drips etc... Took about 2 hours as i kept reading the instructions and checked everything many times before going to the next step. We have had no issue with "marking", but varying degrees of digestive health could have a bearing on this. A big test on this will be when my brother comes for a visit. We swapped out on old 1940s crane that was a +3 gallon flusher and estimate a 12-15ooo gallon saving yearly on our water bill plus a savings on our sewer bill. While i realize the next install on concrete floor may be more of a challenge i would rate this toilet as moderately easy to install-looks and performs well and would not hesitate to recommend this unit based on this short period of use.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jzsjr

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
looking at Aquia II

I'm trying to figure out if the Aquia II will fit in my space. The rough in is the required 12 inches but The plumbing comes up through the floor and not the wall. I had to re-do it this way when a nipple broke on me. Thus the plumbing through the floor is about 3 inches off the wall measured to the furthest edge of the escutcheon (sp) and is 2 3/4 inches to the nearest edge of the escutchen from the center of the toilet. If this is too vague perhaps I can attach a picture later. I'm worried that since the Aquia toliet bases run very close to the wall the plumbing will be in the way.
thanks,
Jim
 

Jzsjr

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Aquia II installation

I went ahead and bought the Aquia II and installed it yesterday. There was enough room for the water line that comes up through the floor partially behind the toilet. It is a very nice looking and working toilet. It is also my third (different) toto completing my three bathrooms (thanks to Terry's web site). My advice is to use the link on Terry's responses to Jamie's installation instructions. The part about drilling the white anchors with the 3/16 inch bit is very helpful (always good to switch to a normal wood bit and not use a masonry bit). When drilling on tile I've found it necessary to tap the tile with a nail punch or the bit itself to score the tile so the bit does not walk all over the place. I also thought I would pass on that it is better to use wax to lube screw threads than soap.
thanks,
Jim

cst416_wood_3.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

JustM

New Member
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
0
I had the plumber do it. I needed some other things done, they were going to be here...I just let them do it.

I really wanted to be here, but couldn't coordinate the schedule of when I was available and when they were. This was probably for the best because I'm sure I would have been hovering.

I'm very happy with it so far.

I'm not sure that the level is set properly for the smaller flush...I don't see a whole lot of difference between the two. (But I'm coming from a 3+gallon flush...so they're both a lot different than that.) I'm going to investigate this weekend.

Thanks to all here.
 

ahr2000

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Aquia II re-installation question

I've read through the Aquia thread but didn't find an answer to the exact question I have.

I recently removed my Aquia II so I could paint the wall behind it. To remove the toilet I removed the setting bolts and then just pulled the toilet up. It came out extremely easily and cleanly. The bottom of the trapway just popped off the gasket at the outlet flange. So my question is: when I re-install the toilet, can I just set it back on the gasket and bolt it back down, or do I have to remove the outlet flange and put in a new wax ring below?

If it's not obvious, I had a plumber install the toilet so I'm not sure about the proceedure to put it back. From what I"ve been told, you always have to put a new wax ring on, but when I removed this toilet, the connection at the outlet flange seemed so clean, and the wax ring is underneath the flange (which I didn't remove) that I'm wondering if it needs a new wax ring.
 
Last edited:

Peanut9199

Customer Service Manager Plumbing Wholesale
Messages
869
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Ontario, Canada
If you didn't remove the Unifit rough from the floor, then you do not need to do anything just push the toilet back into the gasket.
 

Yserra

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
what about using a waxless ring with Toto's dual flush toilets?

We just bought two dual flush toilets and, not having seen the bottom side of the toilet, went ahead and bought two waxless rings to install them. Now that I have seen the system Toto uses I'm wondering if it is possible to use the waxless ring? Anyone done this? How?

Thanks!
 

Yserra

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
need more info

How will the waxless work? Do we just bolt the gray plastic plate from Toto to the floor over the waxless insert and then place the bowl over that? We are having a hard time understanding how the red gasket on the waxless system will seal to the gray part from Toto. Are you sure this will work??

Y.
 

metropxp

New Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
New Jersey
Fill valve issue --toilet is running

We had two Toto Aquia installed 1 1/2 years ago. Now one is constantly running. I followed the procedures for cleaning the flush valve and fill valve, but it seems to be an issue with the float not shutting off the water.

Is there something else I should try before just replacing the fill valve?
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks