Toto Aquia dual flush toilet product review, comments and posts.

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Brook0

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I noticed the Aquia one piece only has a 1-3/4 inch trap compared to the 2-1/8 trap on the Aquia CST416M. Do you think that this could affect the performance in a negative way. Does anyone have any real world experience with the one piece Aquia?
 

Seattle2k

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I have one too. Recently, it seems it's not flushing as much water. I know I can adjust that though. Otherwise, the toilet works and looks great.
 

Lecvar

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We purchased an Aquia MS654114MF and are in the last day of a bathroom remodel only to discover that we have 11", not 12" for the rough in. Does anyone have any experience with using this model with an offset flange?

Thanks for an amazing site. I've learned more in the 17 pages than 47 years!
 

Terry

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we have 11", not 12" for the rough in.

You can set these at 11.5"
You may be able to fudge the adapter the rest of the 1/2" by setting it offcenter to the flange.
The outlet is 2", and you are dropping it into a 3" pipe. There is some room to play with there.

We sometimes use a flange repair ring to hold the closet bolts at the "new" center.
Do not use an offset flange.
 

Lecvar

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Thank you Terry.

You can set these at 11.5"
You may be able to fudge the adapter the rest of the 1/2" by setting it offcenter to the flange.
The outlet is 2", and you are dropping it into a 3" pipe. There is some room to play with there.

We sometimes use a flange repair ring to hold the closet bolts at the "new" center.
Do not use an offset flange.
 

Kohinahi

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Hi!
I need some help with a powder room project and would greatly appreciate if someone with an installed Aquia II 12" rough-in toilet can provide me with some measurements. The issue is that my chrome threaded pipe nipple is 3" from the center line, protrudes 4" (including the valve) from the wall and is 5" off the floor. I was planning to install the Aquia II (CST412MF or CST416M) toilet and need to know if the back of the toilet can accommodate my current nipple placement. It would be very helpful if you can let me know the rear clearances.

If the toiler rear cannot accommodate the nipple, can someone let me know how easy/difficult it is to swap out the nipple with a new shorter one? I am only experienced with copper pipes.

Thank you!!

attachment.php


Aquia II on a 12" rough
 
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Kohinahi

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Terry/wjcandee, Thank you.

Hi!
I need some help with a powder room project and would greatly appreciate if someone with an installed Aquia II 12" rough-in toilet can provide me with some measurements. The issue is that my chrome threaded pipe nipple is 3" from the center line, protrudes 4" (including the valve) from the wall and is 5" off the floor. I was planning to install the Aquia II (CST412MF or CST416M) toilet and need to know if the back of the toilet can accommodate my current nipple placement. It would be very helpful if you can let me know the rear clearances.

If the toiler rear cannot accommodate the nipple, can someone let me know how easy/difficult it is to swap out the nipple with a new shorter one? I am only experienced with copper pipes.

Thank you!!

attachment.php


Aquia II on a 12" rough
 
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Bronsonb

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Hi!
I need some help with a powder room project and would greatly appreciate if someone with an installed Aquia II 12" rough-in toilet can provide me with some measurements. The issue is that my chrome threaded pipe nipple is 3" from the center line, protrudes 4" (including the valve) from the wall and is 5" off the floor. I was planning to install the Aquia II (CST412MF or CST416M) toilet and need to know if the back of the toilet can accommodate my current nipple placement. It would be very helpful if you can let me know the rear clearances.

If the toiler rear cannot accommodate the nipple, can someone let me know how easy/difficult it is to swap out the nipple with a new shorter one? I am only experienced with copper pipes.

Thank you!!

Hi there. Not a plumber, but I happen to have the same toilet installed. I measured behind mine, and in that "cut out" area in the back (just above that "foot" at the base) it's about 6.75" from the wall to the back of the toilet. Sounds like the nipple would fit, but I don't know if you'd have room after mounting a shut off valve on it. I think you'd clear the back of the toilet that is closest to the wall, and the pipe is high enough to put it inside that "cut out" area (if all of this is making sense).

I'd just be concerned about having enough space for the shut off valve. Hope this helps at least a little bit.
 

Kohinahi

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Hi there. Not a plumber, but I happen to have the same toilet installed. I measured behind mine, and in that "cut out" area in the back (just above that "foot" at the base) it's about 6.75" from the wall to the back of the toilet. Sounds like the nipple would fit, but I don't know if you'd have room after mounting a shut off valve on it. I think you'd clear the back of the toilet that is closest to the wall, and the pipe is high enough to put it inside that "cut out" area (if all of this is making sense).

I'd just be concerned about having enough space for the shut off valve. Hope this helps at least a little bit.

Thank you! That does help.
 

Kohinahi

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One additional question. Would anyone know if are these two TOTO toilets -- CST416M (Aquia II) and CST412MF (Aquia) are identical except for the height? I looked at the CAD drawings and specs (the supply line area looks different) and could not determine if they both had the new Aquia II type cutout? I saw an Aquia toilet where the skirt extends towards the wall -- covering the cutout area in the Aquia II. TOTO representatives claim that the only difference in the two above models is their height - 16 3/8 for the Aquia II and 17 1/8 for the Aquia.

Thank you in advance!
 

Terry

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cst414_green.jpg


Original CST414M installed with the old style SS114 Seat. This installation must be about ten years old now.
While I was installing a new tub downstairs, the homeowner commented how much she loved this Aquia. Thinking she may want to take it with her if she moves.
 
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Plumbing-RA

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I am about to install two beautiful Aquia CST412's to replace my P.O.S. Am Std low flush (no flush?) toilets. All pics here generally show that the water outlet comes out of the wall. In my case the outlet is from the floor. First (perhaps stupid question) but why does it seem like the wall-mounted outlet is preferred? Second question: the existing floor outlet is about 3-1/2" from the base trim to the front edge of the escutcheon. Any reason to think there'd be any interference with the toilet's base (it seems to have about 6" clearance)?

Thanks!

chen_aquia_4.jpg


Aquia CST416M
 
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WJcandee

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I am about to install two beautiful Aquia CST412's to replace my P.O.S. Am Std low flush (no flush?) toilets. All pics here generally show that the water outlet comes out of the wall. In my case the outlet is from the floor. First (perhaps stupid question) but why does it seem like the wall-mounted outlet is preferred? Second question: the existing floor outlet is about 3-1/2" from the base trim to the front edge of the escutcheon. Any reason to think there'd be any interference with the toilet's base (it seems to have about 6" clearance)?

Thanks!

Doesn't matter whether the water supply comes from the wall or floor. What's important is whether there's clearance from the toilet. There are lots of reasons that the supply is usually on the wall. If there's an exterior wall there in an environment that has freezing weather during the year, floor mount can provide some protection against pipe freeze.

The 412MF's base is 10" wide. 1/2 of that means that it spreads 5" to either side of the toilet centerline. The back of the toilet base is somewhere about 4.5"-ish (maybe a smidge more) from the FINISHED wall (NOT the baseboard). So...if your pipe is sufficiently to the left of the toilet OR emerges sufficiently-close to the wall, it will work. You can always pull or cut the escutcheon if that's the deciding factor as opposed to the pipe. Good luck and come back if you have other questions! You will love that toilet.
 
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Plumbing-RA

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Doesn't matter whether the water supply comes from the wall or floor. What's important is whether there's clearance from the toilet. There are lots of reasons that the supply is usually on the wall. If there's an exterior wall there in an environment that has freezing weather during the year, floor mount can provide some protection against pipe freeze....

The supply lines from the floor might be a Denver thing given our very cold nights: one toilet backs an interior wall which is only 1' in from an exterior wall, while the other backs a wall to an unheated garage.

The 412MF's base is 10" wide. 1/2 of that means that it spreads 5" to either side of the toilet centerline. The back of the toilet base is somewhere about 4.5"-ish (maybe a smidge more) from the FINISHED wall (NOT the baseboard). So...if your pipe is sufficiently to the left of the toilet OR emerges sufficiently-close to the wall, it will work. You can always pull or cut the escutcheon if that's the deciding factor as opposed to the pipe. Good luck and come back if you have other questions! You will love that toilet.

Thanks for the clearance numbers - I looked at the Toto website's template and spec sheet and I couldn't see anything for the base's clearance from the wall (the 10" width was shown clearly). Based on the above numbers the escutcheons will be close to the left rear corner of the base. Fortunately the Aquia that's going into a bathroom to be left as-is will probably just clear the escutcheon, while the other one will be tighter but is going into a bath which we are completely remodeling so moving the supply won't be a huge deal if needed (it's above an unfinished portion of our basement) or cutting the escutcheon will probably do it too.
 

Jadnashua

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So what are these "lots of reasons"?

- It's a lot easier to change the flooring (add or change out tile) if the water comes from the wall
- It's easier to clean the floor without a pipe sticking up
- The supply line is more hidden coming out of the wall, but you still need to be able to access it to shut it off for maintenance
- if you don't have a basement, the fewer lines running through a slab, the better (IMHO, anyway)
-If you did have a spill, water wouldn't be able to run down the hole of a supply coming out of the wall, or at least, not as easily!

I'm sure there are more reasons, but that's what comes to mind right now.
 

Plumbing-RA

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- It's a lot easier to change the flooring (add or change out tile) if the water comes from the wall
- It's easier to clean the floor without a pipe sticking up
- The supply line is more hidden coming out of the wall, but you still need to be able to access it to shut it off for maintenance
- if you don't have a basement, the fewer lines running through a slab, the better (IMHO, anyway)
-If you did have a spill, water wouldn't be able to run down the hole of a supply coming out of the wall, or at least, not as easily!

I'm sure there are more reasons, but that's what comes to mind right now.

Indeed - the spill issue did come to mind, but the other ones were more subtle for me...thanks!
 

LlostBoyzz

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I have been having a problem and it is driving me nuts! I hope any of you guys can help me.
I recently bought a bidet to install in my Toto Aquia II toilet and I can't seem to get to the water valve that is connected to the tank. I need to install this T-adapter to the water valve that is connected to the tank but the design of this toilet won't let me get to it. Other toilets I have seen online have it in plain view in the bottom and left of the tank. This toilet's design blocks it so I can't even reach the water valve.
How do I go about it? I've tried taking the whole tank out but the bolts on the tank are screwed in pretty hard. I don't want to mess up the whole toilet just for a bidet so any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 
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