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Thread: Rusted Out Flange

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member BlueJacketBacker's Avatar
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    Default Rusted Out Flange

    I recently noticed that the toilet in our upstairs bathroom was a bit wobbly and we were getting water around the base. I thought that there may have been an issue with the wax seal, so I started to pull the toilet up to replace the seal. Problems started as soon as I tried to remove the bolts from the base. One bolt pulled right up as I popped the plastic cap off. After pulling the toilet, I discovered that I indeed have a leak from somewhere. The Flange was rusted away to almost nothing(crumbled to the touch in places), and I had water damage radiating out from the drain. Water goes about half way through the plywood, but no sign of anything leaking into the ceiling of room below bathroom. Also, no odor associated with the water damage, so not really sure if it is from a bad wax seal or not. I am going to be replacing the subfloor and plan on installing tile in place of our old vinyl.
    My question is about the old flange, and what I need to do to replace it. The flange, or what is left of it, is attached to the pvc drain. Is there a way to remove only the piece of pvc that the flange was connected to from the lower portion of the drain? If not, I think I would have to cut the pipe and use some type of connector, I would only have access to the pvc for about 12 to 14 inches before it travels under a wall. Not sure if this would be enough room to do that. Any suggestions would be welcome.

    Thanks
    Scott

  2. #2
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    I would remove the old rusted ring entirely and use either the Oatey "Moss Bay Toilet Flange Repair Ring" or, the Raven Products Repair ring they are the same producte and work very well. The key is the condition of the floor... Is the flooring still strong enough to hold screws going down from the ring or, is it rotted?

    You can read about the repair rings here...
    http://411plumb.com/a-great-toilet-f...ted-steel-ring

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member BlueJacketBacker's Avatar
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    I will need to replace the subfloor, it is not able to be saved. I looked at the links to learn about these repair options and have the following questions.

    How do I get the old flange removed from the pvc? It seems to be very secure in its attachment.

    Since I a would like to install ceramic tile as the new floor covering, the floor will be about 3/4 inches higher than the previous floor. Would the Moss Bay replacement still be an option for this?

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    As far as the removal of the old steel it fits into a slot in the pvc and the steel ring can be cut and removed. The Moss Bay will fit into the same groove and secure the pvc in the same manner.

    3/4" is probably going to require the replacement of the flange along with some of the pipe to get the height right. Depending on the length of the horizontal run and whether it runs in a joist bay or, through the joists you may have some fudge factor.

  5. #5
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Most hardware stores sell a repair ring to hold the closet bolts.
    Screws for wood floors, and drop in anchors for concrete floors.

  6. #6
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Since you are replacing the sub flooring and everything will be open, I'd replace the old flange completely. I would not install the flange until the finished floor was in place so the flange could be set firmly on top of the floor. Working with PVC while the floor is open makes this a relatively simple job. Use a flange with the stainless steel ring and you'll never have to replace it. To secure the flange, use #12 stainless steel screws of sufficient length to penetrate clear through the finished floor and sub floor.

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default Flange

    I would get a "2 piece" flange that grips around the old plastic fitting after you "tear" the remains of the old metal ring off. I do not like "repair flanges" that just sit on top of the pipe with no connection to it. How do you maintain the seal with the pipe if the two pieces can move independently? The best flanges either have a hinge that you open and the close around the "fitting", or two pieces that bolt together after snapping them around the old flange "adapter".

  8. #8
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    I would get a "2 piece" flange that grips around the old plastic fitting after you "tear" the remains of the old metal ring off. I do not like "repair flanges" that just sit on top of the pipe with no connection to it. How do you maintain the seal with the pipe if the two pieces can move independently? The best flanges either have a hinge that you open and the close around the "fitting", or two pieces that bolt together after snapping them around the old flange "adapter".
    The Oatey Moss Bay Repair Flange is the gripping type and is constructed from stainless steel.

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