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Thread: Can "any" schedule 80 PVC be used as electrical conduit...

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    DIY Junior Member itr674's Avatar
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    Default Can "any" schedule 80 PVC be used as electrical conduit...

    I'm trying to mount two 200A disconnect panels as close to a Service panel as possible.

    In the electrical sections a hardware stores I don't see any 2" x close or 2" x 2" nipples and that's what it will take to keep these three panels close together.

    I have found some Schedule 80 2" x close nipples in the plumbing section and they will fit the bill as long as "any" schedule 80 pvc is allowed in electrical work????
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    Code Enforcement codeone's Avatar
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    no all electricial equiptment has to be listed and labeled for its use. Plumbing pipe is not listed for electrical work.

    Why do you think you need schedule 80 for this application?

    The fittings for schedule 80 and schedule 40 pvc piping are the same.
    What you need is a 2" TA fitting and a 2" box adapter for your application.
    The TA requires a lock ring and a bushing the Box adapter glues into the TA.
    Or there is the offset fitting. All of these are from carlon
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    Code Enforcement codeone's Avatar
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    Using the 2" TA (connector) and the 2" box adapter will keep your panels 2" to 3" apart.

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    DIY Junior Member itr674's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by codeone View Post
    no all electricial equiptment has to be listed and labeled for its use. Plumbing pipe is not listed for electrical work.

    Why do you think you need schedule 80 for this application?

    The fittings for schedule 80 and schedule 40 pvc piping are the same.
    What you need is a 2" TA fitting and a 2" box adapter for your application.
    The TA requires a lock ring and a bushing the Box adapter glues into the TA.
    Or there is the offset fitting. All of these are from carlon

    codeone, thanks for reply.

    I forgot about sch 40 and 80 fittings being the same--got to many irons in the fire...

    I really wanted a 1" separation, but that might not be possible. Thanks again...
    Last edited by itr674; 12-29-2009 at 03:03 AM.

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    DIY Junior Member itr674's Avatar
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    codeone, man looking at this closer this is exactly what I need...

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    DIY Junior Member itr674's Avatar
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    Got the panels up and spaced correctly and everything is spot on aligned vertically and horizontally, but now the knockouts at the bottom of the 400A and the 200A panels don't align.

    the 400A panel has the 2" knockout knocked out. I have a brand new 2 3/8" hole saw and I believe with slow and carefull drilling I can cut through the 200A disconnect panel knockouts but they will be off center and probably will require a little chalking--if that is ok.

    I could drill new holes in both panels, away from the knockouts, but then the conduitors passing through will be in the way of the ground lugs.

    Will try to post a pic on Monday...

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    Code Enforcement codeone's Avatar
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    Looking forward to the pics.

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    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by itr674 View Post
    ...I can cut through the 200A disconnect panel knockouts but they will be off center and probably will require a little chalking--if that is ok.
    Like as in chalking your pool cue? Problem is you didn't chalk your drill bit before you drilled and it slipped off the target....


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    Code Enforcement codeone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by itr674 View Post
    .
    disconnect panel knockouts but they will be off center and probably will require a little chalking--if that is ok.
    Will try to post a pic on Monday...
    If you are talking about caulking, it would probably be better to use Duct Seal putty.

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    DIY Member enosez's Avatar
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    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you were not allowed to make new knockouts on service entrance equipment. You had to use what was factory made.

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    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enosez View Post
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you were not allowed to make new knockouts on service entrance equipment. You had to use what was factory made.
    I'm not sure that's the case. Some service equipment doesn't have knockouts. As long as you're not into an area that is not allocated for bringing conduit and wire in (wrong compartment, not enough space, etc) you should be fine. Said conduit entry area is typically in the manufacturer's literature.

  12. #12
    Licensed Electrical Contractor Speedy Petey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enosez View Post
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you were not allowed to make new knockouts on service entrance equipment. You had to use what was factory made.
    You know, that's funny. When I was on LI I had heard the same thing. It is not true though. I think it is a LI myth.
    Answers based on the 2008 & 2011 NEC. If you're on the '14 already I feel sorry for you.

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    Code Enforcement codeone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enosez View Post
    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought you were not allowed to make new knockouts on service entrance equipment. You had to use what was factory made.
    Nope No Problem.

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    DIY Junior Member itr674's Avatar
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    Chalk! OMG I still can't spell... Thanks for all the replies. Well finaly got the panels up and almost ready for wire.

    Here is a picture.

    Several more questions coming...
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    DIY Junior Member itr674's Avatar
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    This is a picture of the inside wall.

    1. Can this wire be run in metal conduit inside the wall, and then into the 200A boxes? I want to get as close to the rim joist as possible, then through the top plate, coming out next to the stud, and then down the stud, through the wall and into box....

    2. At the top plate, can the wire be run through a 2"x6" nipple so it will be protected.

    I built the main house out of 2x6s, but this addition is built with 2x4s and I just can't get use to them. I was paralyzed and had to have someone build the addition. So now I have to run the wire (1.5" in diameter) through a 3.5" wide 2x4; the rim joist takes up 1.5" of the 3.5", so that only leaves 2" for a 1.75" or 2.00" hole...

    How do you guys do it, if you have pics that would be nice...
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