quote; 1) Does it make a difference drafting wise if the draft hood is not perfectly centered over the flue on WH?
2) Should the draft hood get hot to the touch? Also should the connecting pipe on top be totally sealed with no gaps where it comes in contact with the hood? I have a 4 inch pipe on on the standard 3 inch hood as you can see in the pics I have posted in other threads...small gap in the back but hot air goes up right?
3) Does BTU's of the water heater play a role in requirements for venting or drafting? In other words a 36000 btu WH draft easier than a 40000 btu one (if that makes sense) Is 4 inch vent pipe too big for either one of those WH?
4) How hot should the vent pipe get? reason I ask is that at my folks over the weekend and the vent pipe did not seem to heat up all that much, draft hood was cool to touch.....my vent pipe gets hot and I mean real hot
5)How high should the flame on the burner be? The flame on this Kenmore is tall and looks like it licks the bottom of the tank.....sometimes it is blue with orange points here and there and other times seems yellow
6) And finally.....could all this be traced back to the Water heater itself? I have been toying with the idea of either bouncing to a lower BTU heater (36000) or going with a Bradford White... Since BW doesn't make a 36000 BTU water heater...maybe a Rheem or even a GE which has to be better than the Kenmore.
1. WHY isn't it centered because there are tabs on the diverter that fit into slots on the top of the heater.
2. You have hot gases flowing through the diverter AND the flue pipe, so how could it NOT get hot?
3. Drafting is a function of the temperature of the flue gases AND the internal temperature of the flue. BTU has little to do with it, other than that the size/diameter of the flue has to be adequate for the burner.
4. If the diverter and flue did NOT get hot, where was the heat going?
5.The color of the flame is more important than its height. If it is blue, but not "blowing" off the burner, then it is adjusted properly. If it is yellow, either you have too much gas or not enough air, and if it were to continue on a permanent basis, the heater flue would eventually be plugged with soot.
6. Could WHAT be traced back to the water heater?
Final point, your Vanguard heater WAS a GE/Rheem/Ruud/Richmond/etc.
Your Sears is an A O Smith/State/Reliance/etc.