I would not use anything but chlorine.
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I have a few questions, This is the second time my well has tested positive for bacteria. It was fine for as few years always negative till I pulled the pump last year to replace it and did not shock it,
I shocked it last year after it tested positive and then waited and it tested neg for bacteria. So I waited like 6-8 months and tested positive.
I am not 100% sure I did it correctly last time so I am posting here for correct amount of shock to use.
The well is 230 feet deep 6" drilled. 30GPM recovery, Goulds 1 1/2 HP Gould s 18GS.
PVC lined.
County says to use 9oz per 100 Feet for 6" well. so based on this I need 21-23 oz something like that. Could it hurt if I just used 2lbs of pool shock Calcium hydrochloride?
then they say pump the water from the well head back into the well through the vent till I smell chlorine I have CSV in my crawl before my Tank will that hurt anything? then they say to move to the next hose bib and then faucet by faucet till I smell chlorine at each one.
then let it sit 24 hours.
Assume all this is right how long should I wait to test the water again?
should I have some kind of filter system installed so I do not have to worry? From what I read maybe no way to know where its2 coming from they said maybe put a camera down the hole.
Is there a treatment system I can put in to mediate bacteria?
TIA
George
I would not use anything but chlorine.
I was not suggesting another chemical I was wondering if I have a well whose water keeps getting bacteria if there was a filter or some kind of treatent I could use
Thanks
George
You can use a chlorine injection system, but I would first look into why the well continually tests positive for coliform. IE, badly grouted and or sealed. Even so, if you run through all that and come up empty there are wells that pick up bacteria from the aquafir in which case you will need to treat it.
You should not use anything but FDA approved chlorine pellets but many people use nonscented regular household bleach. DO NOT use swimming pool chlorine.
I've shocked a lot of wells and can tell you that I'd sue more than the 9 oz/100'. You say you have a 4" liner, so you don't have 6" of water or 1.47 gals/ft.
If you want to know if you have a recurring contamination, retest 7-9 days after the smell of chlorine is gone.
There are a number of different ways to treat your water but IMO the best is an inline erosion pellet chlorinator, 12" x 65" bottom drain mixing tank (equivalent to a 120 gal retention tank) and a backwashed carbon filter with a special carbon in it. I've been selling that system for many years and it has the least maintenance of any system, costs the least and has no moving parts. It also takes up the least space of any chlorination system.
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where do I get those and what dose do u suggest for my case?
Any water treatment dealer and some plumbing and pump supply houses.
How much depends on the demand for chlorine; iron takes 4-5 ppm and with bacteria there's no way to know. So if I were you, I'd use like 1.5 gallon but, with a 30 gpm recovery rate, I don't give you much chance for success no matter how much you use.
And you're assumption that you created the problem, that's unlikely. And once you find bacteria, you have no dependability of being bacteria free in the future. I would buy equipment and treat the water as I use it.
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How much chlorine do I need then? Do I need to consider the water in the whole system?
I have to run the chlorine in everything so don;t I have to consider that in the dilution?
I have in my garage upstairs 2 roughed in sinks one bathroom and one for a kitchen, obviously I cannot flush those without breaking them open, will this be an issue since I will be running the treated water through the whole system will the fact the these are never used allow bacteria to collect?
If I bought your system would that go in my crawl space?
I irrigate with this well too I assume I do not want to pump treated water on my grass do I install it past the CSV and the tee to the irrigation?
it looks like this
well ------ 1 1/4 black poly pipe --- Foundation wall -- 1 1/4 Scheld 40 -- CSV -- Tee -- Irrigation
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|---- Pressure Tank--- House
Thanks
George
"So if I were you, I'd use like 1.5 gallon"
Dead ends like at those sinks are not good because they can not be sanitized.
Equipment always goes after the pressure tank, never before it.
It depends on how high/deep the crawl space is but I have had people dig a hole for the tanks to fit the headroom; so yes, it can go in the crawl space as long as it can not freeze.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
An injection system for chlorine is lower cost--both to buy and particularly to operate--than a pellet erosion system. The pellet erosion systems use very expensive pellets--a years supply will typically cost $150 or more--while a years supply of chlorine with an injection sytem costs less than $15--it uses household bleach purchased at the supermarket.
Whether you use a pellet erosion system or an injection system to chlorinate you will still need a retention tank and a carbon filter.
We've had this conversation before..... Yes bleach is less expensive than pellets but...
I have customers that the initial 22 lbs of pellets that I include with the system lasts them 18-24+ months. And to purchase a solution feeder SYSTEM with the same flow rate (both my hopper and mixing tank = 21 gpm) including an equivalent retention tank (120 gallons) will cost more than my delivered price of $773 including the retention tank.
Installation of the solution feeder system with any size retention tank will also cost more than my system and will take up much more space and it requires electric while mine doesn't. Of course the carbon filter of either type system does. And rebuilding a solution feeder pump when needed isn't free. My system has no moving parts to 'break' or wear out.
And then each system will require the same size carbon filter.
My price for my chlorination system includes the hopper, mixing/retention tank and 22lbs of pellets. I sell 22 lbs of replacement pellets for a delivered price of $148.40.
IIRC I showed you the price of various 80-120 gal retention tanks the last time you claimed the same thing but, I doubt anyone can get a 120 gal retention tank to their house for even half my total system delivered price of $773.00. If you disagree show me the URL to the prices.
Also, most people with a solution feeder hate the baby sitting they require and the fact they don't work well without a stirrer running 24/7; which increases their total purchase price so most people don't buy a stirrer.
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A Stenner injector pump can be purchased for $205 delivered. A 15 gallon solution tank can be purchased delivered for $35. A supply of chlorine from the local supermarket is less than $15. So the total cost for the injector system for chlorine is $255, including the chlorine.
My understanding is that you sell the model 400 pellet erosion feeder. This can be purchased on-line for $269 plus shipping--no chlorine included. See here: http://4pureh2o.com/chemical-feeder.html
I need the URL to anyone selling a 15 gallon solution tank for a delivered price of $35.
And Bob, where is your delivered price for the 80-120 gallon retention tanks?
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
Gary,
I have provided the data to show that a chlorine injection system can be purchased for less than the erosion pellet feeder. This supports my original statement that "An injection system for chlorine is lower cost--both to buy and particularly to operate--than a pellet erosion system. "
The solution tank is available here:
http://www.qualitywaterforless.com/C...p/c1424pst.htm
That's one hell of a site Bob, those are some damn good pricing. Glad I don't have to compete with them![]()
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