studs 2 ft center

**jetlag** · 12-15-2009, 07:17 PM

I trying to find in code where it say you can put 2x4 studs on 2 ft centers on interior non load bearing walls, I know I saw that somewhere.. I just want to do that on a wall up against a jetted tub . To have more room to access the pump. I will have an access panel on the other side of wall in a closet

**johnfrwhipple** · 12-15-2009, 09:38 PM

If the wall is non-load bearing you can build it as you please.

You don't need drywall or tile either. Save on paint and drywall mud.

The inspectors I work with check the bones and structure of the house. Each inspector making sure things are safe and sound.

You will find that not conforming to the norm will set you up for a lot of questions and a lot of lost time in extra drawings and rational discussions.

If you want more room to access the pump - put in a mini header but keep things on 16" centers so your 60" cement board and your 14.5" insulation fits the ready made framing.

hj · 12-16-2009, 05:36 AM

Frame the walls at 16", and frame the access door to whatever size it has to be.

**jetlag** · 12-16-2009, 07:14 AM

Originally Posted by hj

Frame the walls at 16", and frame the access door to whatever size it has to be.

ok ,it is only one stud to take out and 2 to put back, Im not sure which tub I will use and where i need to leave access to the pump and the faucets and other things. Will wait till I get the tub to change.

**frenchie** · 12-16-2009, 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by jetlag

I trying to find in code where it say you can put 2x4 studs on 2 ft centers on interior non load bearing walls, I know I saw that somewhere.. I just want to do that on a wall up against a jetted tub . To have more room to access the pump. I will have an access panel on the other side of wall in a closet

R602.5 It actually says you can use 2x3's on 24" centers in a non-loadbearing wall.

2x4's at 24" OC, is actually enough for some loadbearing walls (supporting one floor only, or roof & ceiling only).

Originally Posted by johnfrwhipple

If the wall is non-load bearing you can build it as you please.

You don't need drywall or tile either. Save on paint and drywall mud.

No offense, but... like... none of that is true.

There's a bunch of code sections that specifically apply to non-loadbeaing walls. Lumber still has to be a certain grade; there's still a maximum you can notch the studs; it still needs a top plate; it still needs fireblocking; etc.

As for drywall & tile, the code provisions on interior wall coverings, still apply. There's nothing in there that distinguishes between load-bearing & non-load-bearing walls, it all applies to all walls.

**Ian Gills** · 12-16-2009, 11:11 AM

With steel studs, the gauge and spacing also depend how high you can build the wall.

**jetlag** · 12-17-2009, 11:58 AM

Originally Posted by frenchie

R602.5 It actually says you can use 2x3's on 24" centers in a non-loadbearing wall.

2x4's at 24" OC, is actually enough for some loadbearing walls (supporting one floor only, or roof & ceiling only).

No offense, but... like... none of that is true.

There's a bunch of code sections that specifically apply to non-loadbeaing walls. Lumber still has to be a certain grade; there's still a maximum you can notch the studs; it still needs a top plate; it still needs fireblocking; etc.

As for drywall & tile, the code provisions on interior wall coverings, still apply. There's nothing in there that distinguishes between load-bearing & non-load-bearing walls, it all applies to all walls.

Yea I found it in the code after I made the post and I knew about the 2x3 but they have a tendency to bow and the ones at supply house were bad. And French is right you cant build interior non bearing walls any way you want. About the only thing different is can use 2x3 and the door headers can be one 2x4 flat. And 24" centers on studs is allowed .There are restrictions for load bearing studs on 24 center.