Exterior 30a power inlet

**homer777** · 12-12-2009, 04:30 PM

Hello,

Basic question, but I dont know the correct answer.

I am putting in a transfer switch. I am using 3/4" sch40 conduit from the exterior power inlet to the transfer switch....and pulling in 4 #10 stranded.

My question is how to attach (what fittings, etc) the sch 40 to the exterior power inlet.

The sch40 will go down between the garage doors and the power inlet is on the exterior siding between the garage doors. The wall is approx 6" ( drywall, stud, plywood sheething and siding).

I was told to use a liquid tight fitting up against the box...??

What else?

Thanks,

Homer

**jar546** · 12-13-2009, 11:59 AM

The exterior "power inlet" as you describe it should be in a weatherproof box and the conduit should connect directly to it.

**homer777** · 12-13-2009, 12:35 PM

Yes, it is an official 30a exterior power inlet by GenTran......

I have been looking online and have comeup with this....

Inlet box -> LiquidTight 3/4 connector -> 3/4 LT NM conduit (just enough to get me in the 6" wall and up about 6" and then transition to sch 40 with a coupling....

Does this sound correct?

Thanks in advance.

Homer

**jar546** · 12-13-2009, 01:00 PM

Is there a knock out on the box or do you have to make your own?
All you need is a male fitting with a locknut inside the box.

Is this the power inlet box that has the outlet on the bottom?

**homer777** · 12-13-2009, 01:09 PM

Yes, it has a couple of knock outs and the outlet is on the bottom.

**jar546** · 12-13-2009, 01:22 PM

AS long as you don't exceed 36- degrees between pull points, you should be fine.

**homer777** · 12-13-2009, 01:46 PM

Thanks...

Actually have 450 degrees of bends.....five 90's to be exact...(90 to go up the wall between the garage doors, 90 at the ceiling to go down the center of the garage ,a 90 2/3 the way down the center of the garage to turn it towards the panel, 90 at the ceiling to turn it down the wall and a 90 to turn it into the panel.

I was thinking of putting two pull points.....

Thanks for all your help.

**Billy_Bob** · 12-13-2009, 02:27 PM

Originally Posted by homer777

Actually have 450 degrees of bends.....five 90's to be exact...

Good grief!

Each bend in the conduit makes wire pulling a LOT harder. But you will see...

**homer777** · 12-13-2009, 02:53 PM

Thats what I heard....

...any other ideas.....

Thanks again

**jar546** · 12-13-2009, 04:21 PM

You simply need to add another weatherproof pull point such as an LB that is accessible.

**homer777** · 12-13-2009, 04:27 PM

..i was going to put in two access points....

thanks

**Billy_Bob** · 12-13-2009, 05:10 PM

Also there is "wire pulling lubricant" which makes wire pulling a lot easier.

Like this...
(They would have this at a home improvement store electrical department.)
http://ideal.datacomtools.com/idealc...-lubricant.htm

**jetlag** · 12-13-2009, 05:41 PM

The code only allows 4 , 90 deg bends before a junction is required, so i would go 3 then a junction and 2 more. The weather proof box does not require liquid tight . thats why the holes are in the bottom and there are tiny drain holes in the corner . I would come out of the bottom with a lock nut and male adapter then short pipe and an LB then thru wall and put silicon where you penetrate the wall . That will get you inside and around the first 90 . Its not the professional way but it helps to slide the pipe and fittings over the wire and glue them as you go instead of installing all the conduit and trying to pull all at once , It takes a lot of experience to determine if a pull is going to be a hard one , That way you dont have to worry. If you are going in attic or places not exposed you can change over 10/4 nm at a junction , thats a lot easier than conduit.

**frenchie** · 12-13-2009, 08:53 PM

Originally Posted by jetlag

Its not the professional way but it helps to slide the pipe and fittings over the wire and glue them as you go instead of installing all the conduit and trying to pull all at once

That's not just unprofessional, it's illegal.