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Thread: Exterior 30a power inlet

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member
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    Default Exterior 30a power inlet

    Hello,

    Basic question, but I dont know the correct answer.

    I am putting in a transfer switch. I am using 3/4" sch40 conduit from the exterior power inlet to the transfer switch....and pulling in 4 #10 stranded.

    My question is how to attach (what fittings, etc) the sch 40 to the exterior power inlet.

    The sch40 will go down between the garage doors and the power inlet is on the exterior siding between the garage doors. The wall is approx 6" ( drywall, stud, plywood sheething and siding).

    I was told to use a liquid tight fitting up against the box...??

    What else?

    Thanks,

    Homer

  2. #2

    Default

    The exterior "power inlet" as you describe it should be in a weatherproof box and the conduit should connect directly to it.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  3. #3
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    Default

    Yes, it is an official 30a exterior power inlet by GenTran......

    I have been looking online and have comeup with this....

    Inlet box -> LiquidTight 3/4 connector -> 3/4 LT NM conduit (just enough to get me in the 6" wall and up about 6" and then transition to sch 40 with a coupling....

    Does this sound correct?

    Thanks in advance.

    Homer

  4. #4

    Default

    Is there a knock out on the box or do you have to make your own?
    All you need is a male fitting with a locknut inside the box.

    Is this the power inlet box that has the outlet on the bottom?
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  5. #5
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    Default

    Yes, it has a couple of knock outs and the outlet is on the bottom.

  6. #6

    Default

    AS long as you don't exceed 36- degrees between pull points, you should be fine.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  7. #7
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    Default

    Thanks...

    Actually have 450 degrees of bends.....five 90's to be exact...(90 to go up the wall between the garage doors, 90 at the ceiling to go down the center of the garage ,a 90 2/3 the way down the center of the garage to turn it towards the panel, 90 at the ceiling to turn it down the wall and a 90 to turn it into the panel.

    I was thinking of putting two pull points.....

    Thanks for all your help.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by homer777 View Post
    Actually have 450 degrees of bends.....five 90's to be exact...
    Good grief!

    Each bend in the conduit makes wire pulling a LOT harder. But you will see...

  9. #9
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    Default

    Thats what I heard....

    ...any other ideas.....

    Thanks again

  10. #10

    Default

    You simply need to add another weatherproof pull point such as an LB that is accessible.
    http://www.inspectpa.com/forum/forum.php
    My answers are based mostly on the ICC codes. Advice given is my personal opinion and every person performing work should acquire a permit from his/her jurisdiction and get the work inspected. My opinions are not directions to follow for DIYs or professionals

  11. #11
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    Default

    ..i was going to put in two access points....

    thanks

  12. #12

    Default

    Also there is "wire pulling lubricant" which makes wire pulling a lot easier.

    Like this...
    (They would have this at a home improvement store electrical department.)
    http://ideal.datacomtools.com/idealc...-lubricant.htm

  13. #13
    DIY Member jetlag's Avatar
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    Default gen box

    The code only allows 4 , 90 deg bends before a junction is required, so i would go 3 then a junction and 2 more. The weather proof box does not require liquid tight . thats why the holes are in the bottom and there are tiny drain holes in the corner . I would come out of the bottom with a lock nut and male adapter then short pipe and an LB then thru wall and put silicon where you penetrate the wall . That will get you inside and around the first 90 . Its not the professional way but it helps to slide the pipe and fittings over the wire and glue them as you go instead of installing all the conduit and trying to pull all at once , It takes a lot of experience to determine if a pull is going to be a hard one , That way you dont have to worry. If you are going in attic or places not exposed you can change over 10/4 nm at a junction , thats a lot easier than conduit.
    Last edited by jetlag; 12-13-2009 at 05:55 PM. Reason: add more

  14. #14
    Jack of all trades frenchie's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jetlag View Post
    Its not the professional way but it helps to slide the pipe and fittings over the wire and glue them as you go instead of installing all the conduit and trying to pull all at once
    That's not just unprofessional, it's illegal.
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  15. #15
    DIY Member jetlag's Avatar
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    Default not illegal

    Quote Originally Posted by frenchie View Post
    That's not just unprofessional, it's illegal.
    It is allowed by the exception to nec 300.18 for the short run he has. Especially for pvc that wont damage wire when you carefully slide it over.

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