What are some of the drawbacks of switching over from gas WH to Electric?

[Runs with bison]

Every association is different, but a hard/fast rule on this seems a little rigid. Often, the new vent is similar to a dryer vent. Mine for my boiler is hidden by some shrubs, and except for the steam in the winter, you'd never notice it.

I find it very unlikely that a homeowners's association could successfully block this. In fact, I would tell them to stuff it and do it anyway. This is not a reasonable restriction on a required utility for residency and therefore I suspect their objection is null and void for that reason alone.

[vtxdude]

I do not know what kind of plumbers you have in NH, but any good plumber with diagnostic skills should be able to fix it.

And there is where the problem lies

Soot on the draft hood..the 1st water heater had soot on the baffles in the middle..loud flame....it is not a crisp blue flame..it has blue but does look a bit lazy and had yellow in it...as I said even with door to outside open it still burns this way??? Is that not enough secondary air? Draft seems good..I can cup hand around and not have to move...although draft at very front does not draw as well as sides and back...does that make any sense? Gas suppy goes for 3/4 black iron to 1/2 OD copper tubing (so whats that 3/8 ID?) back to 3/4 black pipe where it connects to water heater.... been told that a fire Marshall would red line the heater just for that...think maybe one of the Sears plumbers may have said something?

And what cause combustions smells.......I am smelling something..I think any adhesive from the meatl tape the pulled off pipe must have burned off by now? They did put the read fire caulk on the connections but that shouldn't smell I would think...if you get on step stool and stand right above where first elbow comes up (HVAC guy called it something else) you can feel the heat rising and the smell..it is almost like a metal burning smell..can the pipe actually cook? I dunno I'm grasping at straws now...and since HVAC put that new 12x12 grate in the living room I now get that smell in my living area not cool at all...not their fault...the builder used sheet metal on the joists to use as a cold air return..and not the most air tight system thats for sure

[Gary Swart]

I'll put in my 2 cents worth for the power vent. I'm pretty sure that you could run the vent up through the existing flue. The new power vents can be vented through smaller pipe and for long distances than the older ones. I would do anything legal to avoid changing to electricity. Gas water heaters are by far the most economical and heat water so much faster than electricity. There has to be a plumbing contractor in your area that can deal with this, just keep looking.

[hj]

Sheet metal on the joists for a return duct is a common practice, since that is a "suction" system not a pressure one. FEELING for draft is not a valid test. You have to use a smoking piece of paper to see if the smoke goes into the draft diverter, or is pushed away from it. Metal does not burn, and I do not know why they would use a fireproofing on the joints. It was completely unnecessary, and since it could be an ablative material when it gets hot, THAT could create some odors.

[vtxdude]

If it wasn't drafting correctly wouldn't I be getting spillage of CO in my basement? 2 detectors within 6 feet of it and nothing

[Doherty Plumbing]

If it wasn't drafting correctly wouldn't I be getting spillage of CO in my basement? 2 detectors within 6 feet of it and nothing

I think I have told you this before and I think you seem to refuse to believe me but:

A properly burning gas appliance will NOT produce carbon monoxide.

[master plumber mark]

get a better brand ofgas heater andthe problem will probably go away...

SEARS WATER HEATERS
ARE 100% COMPLETE .....DOG SHI/....


get a Rheem or bradford white and that will solve the problem


call sears and say you want it taken out and a
refund if the unit is still under the first wyear warranty..

theya re having nothign but problems with this
brand.... look at this link and read for yourself

http://baheyeldin.com/technology-in-...er-heater.html

[vtxdude]

I think I have told you this before and I think you seem to refuse to believe me but:

A properly burning gas appliance will NOT produce carbon monoxide.

No I believe you!!! maybe I am missing what you are saying....so let me ask this....the water heater appears to be drafting correctly....but I still get some sort of smell after it has been running for a few minutes...flame in sight window seems a bit lazy....seems to be soot under hood a bit....and the combustion smell

Could it still have all these things and be burning correctly? I'm not being wise here..I am asking an honest question

[vtxdude]

Mark if I knew that the smell and other associated problems I have been having with the water heater would go away with Bradford White I would do it in a heart beat....I noticed that the BW and even the GE's at Home Depot have the air intake on the sides rather than at the bottom like the Sears??? Could this be part of the issue I am having with air flow? Could that be producing combustion smells?


As it stands now I am planning on going to the electric BW next week I've just been so wary of the gas water heater..never was before with my Vanguard but this Sears one has been a nightmare...I have only had heater for about a month.....will Sears take it back??? I have a feeling it won't be easy to get a refund

I'm just curious Mark, none of the issues I read on that site have affected me....yet....seems like a lot of thermocouple and pilot issues



I'd still like to know why and where that smell is coming from

[Dunbar Plumbing]

vtxdude,


I pinned you down on some exact pinpointing steps to resolve your issue with your water heater, about that draft gauge, #460 air meter from dwyer.

I discussed fpms, *feet per minute* draw to determine the problem if that flue chase is pulling those combustion gases up that flue.


I then asked you to pull that base cap off the tee that serves the vertical of that stack, and I still haven't seen you do anything to that effect.


Now, I watched you start numerous threads, "claiming" you care about your family, but you are implying the exact opposite by ignoring what you call the "good professionals" here on this forum board.


Tell me why you are ignoring my crucial advice that pinpoints the issue of whether or not that flue is drawing to the roof,

Tell me why you can't do for yourself what others are not doing for you at this point (sears installers)


You whining to Sears is getting you nowhere is it? There's no way you took any of the advice from here, or me and shot it to sears to demand a properly working unit.


And now you're drifting away from the gas water heater to electric, double or triple spending at this point because you don't know how to analyze a problem, target the issue and nail it to the cross and fix the damn problem.

You got the sympathy of many that you were wronged on the install, but I can tell you without a doubt; that water heater is not the problem, it's the flue it's attaching to and since Sears touched it, they own the responsibility to fix it because they cannot touch a water heater and not assume the responsibility to make it operate properly.

You are dropping the ball worse than they are because you haven't dug in and fixed it by means of addressing the responsible parties to demand it be done, correctly.

I'm starting to think your overreaction is just the impulse decision to enjoy the audience you are building, because I'm counting the days you've been tinkering with this issue, and that water heater probably has been running every day.


So here's the speculation you create when you sit and ponder "what do I do" semantics:

Attention?

IF, you cared about your family you'd be out of that house, hammering those phones to Chicago Illinois at the Sears headquarters and living in a hotel room with sears footing the bill the whole way through.


But you haven't bought a draft gauge to protect you and others
You haven't pulled that cap off to look up that flue
You are using an internet community for something other than your plumbing related problems.

The answers have been here all along and you just keep ignoring the pertinent ones, glancing over.

Better ask yourself why, and you better think who has the best interest of your family when you're showing the world how much you don't care at this point.


Sometimes when things aren't even your own fault, you have to stand up for yourself and others and protect when situations like this happen.

^^^^

I shouldn't have to tell you this, I really shouldn't.

[vtxdude]

Dunbar, I do appreciate your comments...seriously I do....not really understanding a lot that is being told to me is part of the issue...I'm sure it comes natural to a lot of you but for me it is difficult to follow...I have done a few things...I have gotten the HVAC guys in here and the negative pressure issue that was causing the draft to be sucked down the flue and caused the spillage that melted the red and blue rings has been eliminated...with furnace on the cellar door will no longer be slammed and sucked shut...I did look up the flue by taking the cap off of the bottom of the T..I could not see daylight but it is a pretty long run with a cap with small holes on the end....I'm not sure how much light I should have seen..I will look again tomorrow


The only thing I find wrong in your posting is that I am just looking for an audience... no not at all only for advice..and yes I am taking it all in trust me...my flue routing is not the best but the way stuff is in my cellar i really don't have a choice unless I rip my furnace out and move it. The problem is only when the water heater runs and I have been dealing with it by keeping the cellar shut until it runs and the smell dissipates....I have missed more work trying to address this issue than I care to count.....

I will look into that draft meter...where can I get it...Lowes?

I really do appreciate what you have to say and please believe me when I say that I'm not playing some game here...seriously...different people understand things differently...takes me a bit longer to understand it thats all

[prd823]

vtx- If you would like to get this fixed or attempt to thru Sears again try contacting:

Brian J. Sears Case Manager Sears Cares Team

searscares@searshc.com

Provide a contact phone # with your e-mail.



Personally I have an electric water heater and always have. If cost is an issue (electric rate) you might try putting it on a timer. I have never tried that. Where I live the electric rate is cheaper than gas..

[jadnashua]

In another thread, he talks about problems with his furnace and the return duct...he probably got this fixed once the return problem was resolved.

No combustion device can work well if it doesn't have free access to sufficient air to support the combustion and exhaust.

[Dunbar Plumbing]

I read that after posting my response to him in that thread.


The very reason I was posting about testing draw up that flue. That would of led to a far sooner conclusion once a draft test would of shown little or no air movement required.


Some of my best education on water heaters was being a grunt installer for 4 product brands being forced to be accountable for how we installed those heaters.

[vtxdude]

vtx- If you would like to get this fixed or attempt to thru Sears again try contacting:

Brian J. Sears Case Manager Sears Cares Team

searscares@searshc.com

Provide a contact phone # with your e-mail.



Personally I have an electric water heater and always have. If cost is an issue (electric rate) you might try putting it on a timer. I have never tried that. Where I live the electric rate is cheaper than gas..

If you don't mind me asking how many people are in the household and what size is the WH? I'm trying to gauge how much of an increase I will see with an Electric water heater...

I've seen Brian's name on the other Sears board.....I wonder if he can help on getting the Sears heater out of my house!