Lift station?

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jernlee

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Guys and gals I am building a garage and putting a toilet in it. The garage floor is 36 inches lower than the aerobic system. I live in the country and I need no permits. I am wanting to do this myself. Do I need a lift system ? I am wanting to use a regular toilet to a pump to the areobic system. I was told that there was a 3 ft tall tank with a pump that I needed to flush to than it would churn it up then pump it up to the aerobic sytem. I do not know names are were to get this stuff. Can someone tell me if this is correct and what do I need. The garage tolilet is about 150 ft away from the aerobic system.
thanks sorry so long
jerry
 

JohnjH2o1

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There are many good professional people in the trades. Its up to you to seek them out. You make a statement that the trades have gone down hill. Take a look around there are good & bad people in all types of businesses including yours.

John
 

Jimbo

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You haven't asked a very specific question. Couple of points>
In my admittedly limited experience in that area, even the most rural areas which don't have code enforcement or permits for many things....the one thing they ARE sticky about is septic, just because once you have 2 people living in the same town, you have potential "issues" with sewer. If you can do all this with no permit, so be it.

You mentioned something about 150 feet. All of a sudden, this is really getting beyond DIY, in terms of slopes, flow, pipe sizes, etc.

Anyone, including the septic experts here, would need to see a plot layout and a cross section elevation of this project to have any idea about design.
 

Asktom

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I should have added that you need to do your homework on this one before you tackle it. If you don't, it could come back to bite you.
 

NHmaster

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Here's a little tidbit of code information. If you have either a sewage ejector pump or a macerating toilet, the septic tank and leachfield must be increased in size by 50%. That is because both systems emulsify the waste into fine particles that remain in suspension in the tank and choke off the oxygen necessary for normal bacterial growth. So if you go ahead and do this without a permit, when your leach field fails in the next five years or less you have no one to blame but yourself.
 

jernlee

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Here's a little tidbit of code information. If you have either a sewage ejector pump or a macerating toilet, the septic tank and leachfield must be increased in size by 50%. That is because both systems emulsify the waste into fine particles that remain in suspension in the tank and choke off the oxygen necessary for normal bacterial growth. So if you go ahead and do this without a permit, when your leach field fails in the next five years or less you have no one to blame but yourself.

when you say leach fields are you talking about the lateral lines in the yard out back?
 

jernlee

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For those that don't know. I just got off the phone with Jeff the plumbing code inspector in Plano Texas and he said that if there is 5000 or less on the system there is no permit pulled or needed. An aerobic system is two tanks on my property that cleans the waste then blows it out of two sprinklers in my pasture. No one else is hooked up on it plus no lateral lines neither. 1 only me.
 
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Cookie

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gary this doesn't help anyone but you to get your post numbers up. please quit taking cheap shot and running people off. I am not hooking up[ to a city sewer system. I am hooking up to my own aerobic system. for those who tried to help thanks alot. But to all try an unstand before you condim. Yes my trade has went down hill to.And I know there are some professionals out there. And everyone steps outside their trade on alot of stuff. But study before doing.
thanks to all that helped
jerry;)


It is a DIY forum and Jerry their are those who will answer you with a better attitude, I hope. Yet, don't count on it either. ;)
 
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Doherty Plumbing

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Heck, if you don't need permits, then just do it any old way. :rolleyes: I have doubts about not needing permits

For all of those who are are saying he should get a permit need to think about things for a second.

In fact if you looked in your code books there is a very good chance there is a list of what that code book applies too. Most do NOT apply to farms (or the like).

If he doesn't need permits in his area who is he supposed to call? Maybe he should phone me and basically ask that he be allowed to pay me some $ for a permit. No problem.

There are LOTS of areas that don't require permits or things to be done to code. Don't think this doesn't mean you shouldn't do them right but the code isn't the be all end all of plumbing. It's the minimum. And often not practical in certain situations (or on certain budgets).
 

jernlee

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Just because I dont have to get a permit. Doesn't mean that i am going to put the plumbing in wrong. Thats really the reason I got on this forum, to ask questions for the masters. Not what they think but what they know. And so far most of this is just trying to justify that I am not an idiot. Just need to have some answers to check my plumbers or maybe do it my self.
thank you
jerry
 

Jadnashua

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You have the choice of a couple things as I see it. Each one has a pump. There are some toilets that have a built-in tank and pump. IF you want to use a normal toilet, then you'd need to use a tank in a pit with a pump. The first could be done without cracking concrete as it is all done at the surface whereas a normal toilet would need a drain line installed in the floor with a pipe to the pit, then the outlet of the pit, once it trips the float, pumps it out.

Either one can be sized to also support the required sink, and some can handle a shower as well.
 

jernlee

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You have the choice of a couple things as I see it. Each one has a pump. There are some toilets that have a built-in tank and pump. IF you want to use a normal toilet, then you'd need to use a tank in a pit with a pump. The first could be done without cracking concrete as it is all done at the surface whereas a normal toilet would need a drain line installed in the floor with a pipe to the pit, then the outlet of the pit, once it trips the float, pumps it out.

Either one can be sized to also support the required sink, and some can handle a shower as well.

Jim thanks the floor hasn't been poured yet. I am wanting to use a normal toliet. Going to the tank, then pumping it from there. Do you know a name of the tank and pump? I was told little giant makes one? But I don't know what size. It is 40 ft to the tank . Does and one know how many inches I need to fall in 40 ft? Then from there it is about 100 ft to the aerobic pipe that I think I need to t in. It is in front of the two tanks that the waste goes in to before it is cleaned and sprayed on the pasture. The aerobic people says it is perified before it come out. I have to keep clorine in the tank.
thank for any the help
jerry
 

Jadnashua

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Zoeller is a well-respected brand, maybe a pro will chime in with a recommendation. Normal drop (pitch) in a pipe is 1/4" per foot, so in 40', you'd have 10". The important thing is no dips, bellies, or arches! You can get by with slightly lower pitch on larger pipes, but if you can, maintain it at least the 1/4"/foot range.
 

turkeyvulture

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Leach Field

[. If you have either a sewage ejector pump or a macerating toilet, the septic tank and leachfield must be increased in size by 50%. ]

Good thing leach fields are already overdesigned by about 100%.
 

hj

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codes

CODES apply to the plumbing installations, and that means they apply to ALL stuctures in the code's area, not just everything except farms. Although the typical farmer does think he is proficient, and an expert, in everything. (My dad finally had to move from a farm area, because they all thought they were plumbers, and when they did need him they wanted to pay him with a piece of equipment, such as a manure spreader.) Just because there is no inspections, usually because of budget constraints, does not mean the logic, and requirements, behind them have suddenly been magically eliminated. This is a DIY forum, but that means that we tell the suplicant how to do it, IF it is something he has the experience and ability to do it. Some are not even adept enough to fix a faucet and then we tell them to call a plumber. Trying to get the help to do a complete house plumbing system is NOT a DIY job, and then we also tell them to call a plumber. You may call this "copping an attitude", but we call it "using common sense", even if it may cost the person more money to be sure it is done correctly. It does not cost me a single penny, nor do I make one penny more, whether he tries to do it himself or calls a plumber. Our interest is in trying to protect the safety of the person, AND his neighbors, since many plumbing mistakes can cause problems to an entire neighborhood, REGARDLESS of how far, or close, those neighbors are.
 

jernlee

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:(:(
CODES apply to the plumbing installations, and that means they apply to ALL stuctures in the code's area, not just everything except farms. Although the typical farmer does think he is proficient, and an expert, in everything. (My dad finally had to move from a farm area, because they all thought they were plumbers, and when they did need him they wanted to pay him with a piece of equipment, such as a manure spreader.) Just because there is no inspections, usually because of budget constraints, does not mean the logic, and requirements, behind them have suddenly been magically eliminated. This is a DIY forum, but that means that we tell the suplicant how to do it, IF it is something he has the experience and ability to do it. Some are not even adept enough to fix a faucet and then we tell them to call a plumber. Trying to get the help to do a complete house plumbing system is NOT a DIY job, and then we also tell them to call a plumber. You may call this "copping an attitude", but we call it "using common sense", even if it may cost the person more money to be sure it is done correctly. It does not cost me a single penny, nor do I make one penny more, whether he tries to do it himself or calls a plumber. Our interest is in trying to protect the safety of the person, AND his neighbors, since many plumbing mistakes can cause problems to an entire neighborhood, REGARDLESS of how far, or close, those neighbors are.


you are no one esle knows if I am qualified for the job or not . Like you say some people couldnt put a sink up. But I thought I would ask questions get answers. I am the only one that knows if I am able to do the job. So next time you step out side your field I hope you are treaded like I have been here. Like an idiot. I will do the job and I will do it as good as anyone liecened or not. Because I am a professional with my work. Terry I will not be posting here any longer. I see there is very little help here. Just drama.
Thanks to those that tried to help and to those that didn't and were just being cute. I wish you could of tried.
jerry
 

rwcarpenter

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Jerry, you asked this twice, so I feel you wanted an answer, leech fields are made up of lateral lines that run out from a conventional septic system, the lateral lines are perforated normally in the percolation area (percolation area can be a couple of feet or so deep trench surrounding the lateral lines filled with gravel or some kind of high tech percolation system). The length of the lateral lines vary as it depends on the results of soil tests and the like. As you said, yours has no leech field, and thus no lateral lines, so this really should not apply to you at all.

http://www.edcgov.us/emd/envhealth/homeowner_septic.html

I would answer your other questions too, but frankly I just don't know the answers. :D

That all said, I live in the country on a small 20 acre farm, and frankly I hope my neighbors are not spraying their poop juice on their fields (I hope you mean the cleaned water from the system is what you spray instead), some of us have well water around here, me included. What you growing there, and are you selling it...if so watch out for e coli production.
 
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