Fiberglass shower drain in concrete floor

**jdkimes** · 09-02-2004, 12:33 PM

I have a 2" ABS coming out of concrete slab about 6". Installing a Lasco neo angle fiberglass shower. The ABS is set firmly in the concrete and the concrete comes right up to the pipe. I'm wondering how I attach the shower drain. Lasco says to have a 6" space around the 2" pipe. Seems like I'll need some space between the ABS and the concrete to slip one of the drain fittings around it but I'd like to avoid cutting/breaking some of the concrete. Do I need that space or is there a drain fitting for my situation the house is from the 50's, I assume that this rough-in was common (of course the fiberglass showers were not). Like maybe a fitting goes inside the pipe like a toilet flange fitting. Any suggestions?

**e-plumber** · 09-02-2004, 01:08 PM

The house being from the 50's and ABS stubbing out of the floor doesn't jive. The piping was obviously added in after the original construction. The first step is to confirm that there is a drain trap below the floor, when you pour water into the pipe can you see standing water several inches down? You should.
Depending on the design on bottom of the pre-fab shower base will determine how much cement needs to be opened around the stub out, which is not that big of a deal.

**jdkimes** · 09-02-2004, 01:26 PM

e-plumber:
You're exactly right. The ABS was put in by me. The original rough-in was cast iron, but not where I wanted it. I cut the concrete, dug up the pipe, snapped the cast iron, redirected the pipe with ABS, put in a new trap and then covered it all back up with cement (after the inspector approved- I actually have a permit for this!). I assumed that I should make it just like it was w/ the cast iron (cement right up against the pipe). So now I'm hoping that I didn't miss a chance to make it easier on myself.
I ordered the shower and was thinking about the installation when I started thinking about the drain connection.
Like I said the Lasco shower calls for a 6" dia floor opening around the 2" pipe. Mine's concrete up tight around the pipe. So I don't think this fitting will work. Is the space around the drain pipe necessary or are there some drain fittings that will work? Or I guess it sounds like eplumber is saying to just break out some of the cement around the pipe?

hj · 09-04-2004, 07:15 AM

Check your shower base. Most Lasco bases do not set on the floor, but need a filler under them. If that is the way yours is, then the drain fitting may not even touch the floor, or at most may just need a little concrete removed from the surface around the drain.

**jdkimes** · 09-08-2004, 08:36 AM

Thanks hcj:
I guess I'll have to wait until the shower arrives. The installation instructions and schematics on the Lasco website do show a space (only about 3/4") and recommend using some sort of plaster for support under the base (although they say it's not totally needed because the shower is designed for a 350lb load. but I'll use the plaster) so maybe I won't need to break out much cement to make space for the drain. It looks like most shower drains for this application should be attached to the base then the base is put in place w/ the drain sliding over the pipe and then is tightened up from above?

**e-plumber** · 09-08-2004, 12:18 PM

Installing the shower base the way that you described is correct. Mortar mix or structolite (gypsum mix) under it, IMO makes a better installation.

**jdkimes** · 09-21-2004, 02:41 PM

Picked up the Lasco neo-angle shower insert and I'll have to chip out some cement as suggested to get the shower drain like this Oatey to fit.
There isn't much tolerance for error in mating pipe-drain-base. I may have to chisel a little of the studs to get it all lined up just right.
Any suggestions before I start chiseling, and chipping?

**jdkimes** · 10-28-2004, 11:09 AM

Just a follow-up. I did get the preformed, fiberglass shower and base-in and seems to be okay although haven't finished everything so no test, although I'm not sure how I'd know if it's leaking since it's on/in the basement slab.

I had to hammer drill/chisel the cement out around the 2" pipe so that the Oatey drain would fit and removing the cement also allowed some play in lining everything up. One note: the Oatey ABS-no caulk fitting was very difficult to slide over the pipe, the rubber sleeve binds up, so I took it back and got the brass-no caulk and it was much easier to use. But I did use some caulk anway as insurance and it also makes it easier to slide over the pipe.

I used topping-mix as the under base support as recommended by those at the Johnbridge.com. The real difficulty came in putting the top half of the two piece shower on. When the fiberglass (Lasco bathware) unit was altogether it's not very plumb so I had to notch the studs at the top to allow it all to fit together.

All in all I think I'd go w/ tile shower next time. I thought the fiberglass insert would help me save time and money but I think it made for equivalent work in the end and the tile would be more attractive, longer lasting and higher value. With the help of the Johnbridge people I think I could have done it. Oh well live and learn, on my next house...

hj · 10-28-2004, 03:35 PM

If you are already thinking about your next house you are ahead of the game. I usually tell people who have done something like this and swear they will never do it again, that is like being pregnant. When its over you say, "Nevermore, and if you do it to me again I will kill you.", but then after about nine months you start thinking, "That really was not too bad, maybe we should do it again."