Installing a Kohler Villager Cast Iron Tub

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Very new member of the forum. I'm so glad I found this site! Thank you all for posting such helpful stuff, questions and answers.

I called Kohler today because I am going to install the CI Bellwether (60x30 alcove) on the second floor of my home. I asked about the installation instructions regarding the use of a ledger board. The answer I received was that the ledger board was not necessary but would not hurt the tub or void the warranty. When I brought up HJ and Terry's point about using the ledger as a level contact point between a tiled wall and tub to prevent shifting the Kohler representative on the phone agreed that that made sense and stated that the tiled wall is not taken into consideration regarding the directions to shim the feet.

I just thought I'd share this since I've been reading and thinking about what should be done. Without experience it can be intimidating to not follow manufacturer instructions to a T (even if super-experienced/knowledgeable people say otherwise). I think it's clear that the way to go is a ledger and that any fears that the tub will be hurt by a ledger or that it voids the warranty are unwarranted, per the Kohler rep I spoke with.
 

Hallowhead1

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Does anyone set their tubs in cement or mortar ? I've seen several people recommend this but don't see it being more of a pita than helpful.

My plan is to set the tub on a ledger and try my best have j box metal covers under the feet to avoid any plywood puncturing.

Does anyone use washers and screws at the tub lip to secure it further similiar to an acrylic or fiber tub? I know cast is more brittle but just curious ?

I've seen several people mention running their gyp behind the back wall of the alcove ? I wasn't planning on having any gyp or Hardie behind the bottom back of the tub or the sides. I planned on just running Hardie about 1/8" above the tub lip all around for my tile - is this sound reasoning ?
 

Terry

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We install the tubs against the wood stud walls with a ledger board on the back side.
I have never placed metal covers under the feet. In my experience, the cast tubs have held up well.
I did see one install in a homeowners home where they had left off the blocking to support the long side. Without any blocking, then the metal pads would have made sense.
Keeping the tile backer just above the lip of the tub is what we do too.
 

wwhitney

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Looks like the tub has 4 feet? So if your subfloor is dead level, you can just set a ledger at the correct height on the long wall and let the tube supported by the ledger, the bottom of the apron, and the 4 feet. Most subfloors aren't dead level, so you may need to shim the bottom of the apron as well as one or more feet.

Best practice for the tile backer is to shim out the wall so that the backer can run over the lip of the tub. If the tile backer stop above the lip, then you need to ensure the waterproofing layer is connected to the tub lip. How you do that depends on what waterproofing you are using on top of the Hardiebacker.

Cheers, Wayne
 

GravyEatingDog

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Looks like the tub has 4 feet? So if your subfloor is dead level, you can just set a ledger at the correct height on the long wall and let the tube supported by the ledger, the bottom of the apron, and the 4 feet. Most subfloors aren't dead level, so you may need to shim the bottom of the apron as well as one or more feet.

Best practice for the tile backer is to shim out the wall so that the backer can run over the lip of the tub. If the tile backer stop above the lip, then you need to ensure the waterproofing layer is connected to the tub lip. How you do that depends on what waterproofing you are using on top of the Hardiebacker.

Cheers, Wayne
Kohler provides this info in their Villager install instructions ... what do they know!!!
 

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