Pressure Switch Failed Twice - Pictures

I jumpered the switch so it wouldnt spark, emptied the tank of water. It still had ~30 psi of air so i emptied that also. Opened all the faucets and opened the plastic regulator all the way (to fill the tank). Ran it for about 20 minutes with no problems and got 60 psi in the tank, at which time the switch opened (i had it jumpered so it was still on), but it fully opened. I shut it off and it held pressure fine.

The motor had an odd sound to it, it also vibrated oddly. I dont think it was vibrating hard enough to disturb the switch though.

when I shut it off and felt all the cords, pump and pressure switch and all were not hot at all.

We lost all our volt meters in a barn fire so i havent measured the resistance of the motor yet.

I plan on redoing all the plumbing and replacing the tank and motor. But since the motor is still under warranty i would like to (if its the problem) get a new motor and run it a little longer the way it is. I might put a basement in next year so i wouldnt want to plumb twice...

thanks again

You might want to put that air back in the tank. If the bladder isn't already broken, it will be soon putting 60# to it with no air in the top.

Those pumps vibrate and are noisy out of the box, so don't change the motor for that reason.

bob...

The tank doesnt have a bladder. i "think" its a captive tank unless you would guess other. I read it should have static pressure on the inside and when it fills with water the pressure builds to the cut off pressure.

They are kinda the same thing, bladder captive air etc. If you let all the water out and had 30 pounds of air still in the tank, it's a bladder tank.
bob...

UPDATE:

I took the pressure switch off the motor and ran some water, @40 psi it kicked on and took about 20-30 seconds to get to 60 psi and shut off fine. There were no sparks. The ground wasn’t connected because it is a mechanical connected through the casing. I did this because the motor it self doesn’t vibrate, but the back casing where the pressure switch is attached to vibrates very badly. So i'm pretty sure the vibration was causing it to spark, unless somehow the ground that is now unconnected was causing it.

What could cause it to vibrate?

thanks again

Wouldn't the back casing that the pressure switch connects to be part of "the motor"?

Like I told you earlier, those particular pumps vibrate and make noise out of the box. So I don't see how vibrating could make any difference.

One thing is for sure, you have some kind of an electrical problem if you keep melting down pressure switches.

bob...