Water use - hissing G-Max Korky 528 fill valve - Quiet Fill

[jadnashua]

For less than $3, you can replace the cap - takes 30-seconds or so. That will probably fix it.

[Guest]

Terry,
I just repaired my Toto 528 valve by following your instructions. As you said, under a minute with no tools! The tank was filling in fits and spurts. Following your directions, I removed the cover, float, cap, and center tube, and found a small rock in the strainer! Rock removed, everything reassembled, and tank filling perfectly in under a minute.
Andrew
Takoma Park, MD

[Jaze]

After reading Donna Shoemaker and Terry's original "Toto toilet keeps running", I replaced my Toilet Fill Valve Cap in time-proven manner. However! While it's pretty clear that the cap has been properly replaced, I've kind of bollixed up putting everything back together.

Now the blue tower thing (what the hell IS that, anyway?) is sitting higher in the water, I think, and has a more limited rotational range. The metal rod connecting to the flush handle now sits underneath the blue cap area, so if I want to flush, I have to lift the rod around and over the blue cap area, and if I want the toilet to fill, I then have to lower it around and under the blue cap area. And the toilet is still running energetically.

I've been turning the flow of water off at the wall supply tap (sorry, don't know correct term); today I opened it up fully to use the Washlet and fill the tank and whatnot, and notice after a few minutes there was a dribble of water from the wall supply tap (again, sorry). I'd not seen that before, and wondered whether I'd opened the tap too far.

So:
1. What should I do re: the toilet tank situation - still running, blue tower thing probably isn't in the right place, metal rod getting stuck on the blue tower. I think the cap went in properly, and the flapper was replaced within the last year or so; when I turn the tap off and leave for the day, when I come back in the evening the tank is still full, so I don't think the flapper leaking is the cause of the running.
2. Should I be worried about that dribble from the wall supply tap (sorry)? It stopped when I turned the tap closed.

Here's a photo of my assembly:

Hmm. I'm not sure if this will work - it's a Facebook link. I'll give it a try.



Thanks for any advice people would care to offer!

[Jaze]

Well, that didn't work.

Here's the link to the FB photo:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...7&id=657823139

[Terry]

A ll you had to do was pop the plastic top off.
There was no need to change the height of the tower.
Now you need to go back, pull the locking tap at the bottom, and set the tower lower, and then reset the tab.


That's why we so, just pot the top cap off. Why mess with the tower height, when it's already set correctly. Just leave it alone.

[Jaze]

Really, I had no intention of changing anything other than the cap. But the cap was lodged in there pretty tightly, and I wasn't able to get it off without a lot of jiggling, during which time I must have reset the height of the tower.

To do what you described, do I have to drain the tank, pat the bottom dry etc?

And do you think the dribble from the wall supply tap is a problem? My water pressure is pretty high.

[Gary Swart]

If the "wall tap" you're referring to is the supply valve, it should never leak and should always be turned completely on. If the valve is leaking, it may just need to have the packing nut tightened. New valves use 1/4 turn to go from off to on and replacement is a simple process. Also, your say your pressure is pretty high. Have you measured the pressure with a gauge? If it is excessive, it definitely can damage your toilet as well as dishwasher, washing machine, and any other appliance using internal shut off valves. Pressure gauges are cheap and can be purchased in virtually any hardware store. If you have a pressure regulator, it may need replacing, but test the pressure first, don't just guess.

[hj]

Why not throw that Korky valve away and get a good one, namely a Fluidmaster 400?

[eluke7]

I have had my two toilets with Gmax fill valves for about a year. They flush great, however I have the same problem with both recently. They fill to the line on the tube where it should be after a flush, but sometimes later on when i look inside the tank, the water is at the edge of the pipe above the line. I can hear or see no leaks, and have not been able to witness it fill past the line like that. It happens slowly i guess and not on every flush. Do I need to just change to the Korky fill valve, the one without the white screw adjuster? As much as the Gmax flushes well, it sure don't seem to last very long!

[jadnashua]

Take the cap off and flush it out along with the filter. You may have some grit caught underneath the cap. If that doesn't help, replace the cap - takes a minute or so and it will restore it to new. I think there's a 5-year warranty...call Toto and I think they'll send you new. If you are on a well, you may get some occasional sand or grit. It can also happen on public water systems when they flush the lines or you turn the water off to do some maintenance.

[scm518]

I installed 2 Totos in my house, a Drake and an EcoDrake. The Drake, which has been installed approximately 2 years ago has an issue flushing about 60% of the time - well the problem isnt technically flushing - its refilling the tank I believe. It will refill then stop, then refill, then stop - about 10 times or so, and each time it stops, it makes the sound of an old rusty valve closing, then opening, etc etc. Then after the pulsing stops, there is is one long 10 second deep sounding whine - then the process is over.

It doesnt do this every time - if it helps, I could try to get a video of this happening as I am sure my description above is sketchy at best.

Thank you to anyone who takes the time to read this.

Sean in PA

[Terry]

Read the lower part of this page,
The simple fix is replacing the assembly cap

If you hear hissing, it's water.

www.terrylove.com/korky

[DGasper]

Had the same exact problem with a friend's toilet. Someone else had replaced the fill valve but didn't cut the little tube to the correct length causing it to siphon. As the water level dropped, the fill valve would come on slowly and hiss. After replacing two flappers, it finally occurred to me what the problem was. Cut the tube as short as possible and problem solved.

[scm518]

Terry,

Thank you for the info. It seems to have done the trick, and as you said, the total repair was about $2.58 and took about 1 minute with no tools. (Would have been quicker, but I tend to be very gentle with plastic parts) Here is what I think was the cause of my issues, as the gasket looks very warped. The replacement piece had a much thicker material as the gasket, so hopefully that does the trick. (sorry for the blurry photo, but I thought it might be a help to anyone that is doing this for the first time.

[jtanihana]

I have a Toto 1.6 GPF that started making a horrible noise when the tank would refill. Sounded like the fill valve was really working hard. The fill valve is a "Type B" and has a blue removable cover. My friendly plumber stopped by and said that the Gasket was going and needed replacement. Since he was here, the situation has gotten worse and the shut off is no longer working and water just keeps running through. I have turned of the supply except when we flush!

I have looked on Toto's website and I think I see the replacement part for $3.00. I am wondering if this is a replacement that I can do and if so, how do I do it? I am fairly good with plumbing and would think that I could do it for less than the $50 that he wants. I am also wondering if I have to by a Toto gasket or if I can use a universal one?