Bath Vanity Doesn't Line Up - part 2

In the original post, I was questioning how to line up the drain https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32644

I've made progress, but the trap is still not lining up - it's 1/2 inch off

Any solutions? Is there a larger radius p-trap? This is 1 1/4 copper and the p-trap has the standard 1 1/2 inch radius.

The only other solution I can think of is to cut back the stubout another inch (I've only got 2 inches from the wall surface), buy another 45 degree copper elbow for 25$. That would move the drain so it would line up - but that's alot of work and aggravation.

Steve

Rework the drain or move the sink cabinet

Ahhh good 'ol Dahl mini ball valves, very nice to see.

You need to start over again and work backwards this time, and dry fit before you solder everything up! You were supposed to make the copper arm longer and cut the p-trap arm to make it fit, not make the copper the minimal length and hope the p-trap lined up perfectly.

Other than that, it looks pretty good.

My problem was that I soldered everything up based on a [very careful] mock-up of the drain - BUT without actually completely installing the sink and doing the dry-fit, like you suggest.

Growl. And for the sake of 1/2 inch, too.

So I'm guessing that there's no larger-radius p-trap that would save my bacon???

Steve

You can cut off the trap adaptor and install a 1/16 bend (22) between the 45 and the trap adaptor.

Thanks dcelite, that is a fantastic solution. Only problem is - small city and the plumbing supply doesn't have it/ says they can't get it. Mind you this is the same place that charged me $50 Cdn for the 1 1/4 inch elbow and trap adapter - I'm thinking they just don't want me bothering them.....

So - I guess I'll have to convert to an all-ABS trap after all.

Oh well, I've learned a valuable plumbing lesson - dryfit, dryfit, dryfit - even if it is a PITA.

Steve

PS - It's always a nice feeling when you test it out and there are no leeks Not as elegant a solution - but hey, I guess it is all about getting the water back down the drain, not looking purdy...

nice but it doesn't meet code for two reasons.

1 - you can't reduce in the direction of flow
2 - the slip connection to the copper is backwards.

Humnh....... so how would I go about fixing it?

You have 1.25" copper there, so you need to find 1.25" ABS to do the installation properly (good luck finding that at the local hardware store, although I have seen it stocked at my local RONA). And you really should have used a banded coupling to make the transition instead of that slipjoint coupling.

However, the majority of retrofit installations will be done exactly as you have done, with the exception of some guys using the banded coupling. So I wouldn't worry too much about it.

But I must say, I can't believe you threw out all of that nice metal piping. I assume you had to buy a length of 1.25" copper to do you installation, you could have just unsoldered your fittings carefully and then just cut a longer length of copper to redo the installation properly....now that you have learned to just trim the p-trap arm as needed instead of the other way around!

I would have heated up the 45 near the wall, and slipped it off.
Wiped the solder off with a rag, wear gloves while doing this.

Then cut back the pipe coming from the wall, reassembly and solder up.

You don't need any more fittings, you just need to aim better.

Lucky for us, we've done this before, but it was a long time ago.
This is one of those measure twice, cut once things.

Of course it still works as cut twice, it gets there eventually.

What's with the Teflon tape on the supply lines?
Those supply lines have seals on both ends.
Teflon tape just messes that up.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies.

Terry, I didn't unsolder the fitting at the wall, because I've always thought it to be bad practice to reuse copper fittings. I thought long and hard about cutting back the stubout, but decided against it due to the cost of having to buy at least one, maybe two new fittings (you did see the part where the supply house charged me $50 for the two copper fittings?). And it is now nearly impossible to get in there to cut off the copper stubout with the vanity installed and the top mounted with silicone. - so that's why I didn't do the 'right thing'.

I did contemplate getting a 22 1/2 degree elbow in copper to move the drain over the required amount, but the supply house said they didn't stock it and couldn't order it. I would have cut the copper between the trap adapter and the 45 degree elbow - where there is room to get in and get a nice 90degree cut.

So - converting to ABS was a last-ditch effort, since doing the 'right thing' would have taken way too much time, effort, and $$$.

What's with the Teflon tape on the supply lines?
Those supply lines have seals on both ends.
Teflon tape just messes that up.

Click to expand...

I've always thought about the teflon tape as being a sort of back up in case the seal were to degrade or fail. You're saying it's not a good idea?

Basement_Lurker, what's a "banded coupling." What would be the reason for not reducing pipe diameter downstream and for not using a slipjoint. I guess I'm trying to figure out what the trouble will be in the future for not making it right?

This one has certainly been a learning experience-and I appreciate your help.

That's the beauty of DIY - by the time you've learned all the lessons, you can get it right when it's time to help your kids do their reno projects

Steve

Lol I wouldn't worry too much about the code infractions here. It's a simple lav sink in your own house. Who cares if it's not 100% to code. What you have there will work perfectly fine.

The code clause that states you can reduce in the direction of flow wasn't put in there to stop this type of piping because if you think about it you're draining the sink through a 1.25" fixture outlet pipe, then to 1.5" and back to 1.25". So it's not like you're taking a 4" pipe and dumping it into a 2" pipe.

What you have is perfect acceptable and is actually done quite frequently in retro fits. Mainly because most plumbers (taht I know anyway) do NOT carry 1.25" abs in their vans.

Doherty Plumbing said:

Lol I wouldn't worry too much about the code infractions here. It's a simple lav sink in your own house. Who cares if it's not 100% to code. What you have there will work perfectly fine.

The code clause that states you can reduce in the direction of flow wasn't put in there to stop this type of piping because if you think about it you're draining the sink through a 1.25" fixture outlet pipe, then to 1.5" and back to 1.25". So it's not like you're taking a 4" pipe and dumping it into a 2" pipe.

What you have is perfect acceptable and is actually done quite frequently in retro fits. Mainly because most plumbers (taht I know anyway) do NOT carry 1.25" abs in their vans.

Click to expand...

I guess that inspectors in your area would pass that if inspected based on your reply....none I know of would... if I saw that in a home I would tell the home owner that it was installed wrong....wasn't installed by a plumber...that it was most likely a home owner that didn't know what he was doing or a wana be hack plumber...then ask if they would like me to fix it...

That set up would be rejected by every plumbing inspector in the area including me. Nowhere in the code does it make exceptions for reduction in flow except for a 4 x 3 closet bend. Starting small, going larger then going small again is not covered. Furthermore the ID of 1 1/2 abs is greater than 1 1/2 copper.