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Thread: Sterling Accord 4 Piece install

  1. #1
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    Default Sterling Accord 4 Piece install

    I have purchased a Sterling Accord 4 piece tub/shower surround. I have 60-1/4" rough in space for the 60" tub/shower surround. It says that I can nail directly to studs, but I have had a few people tell me I should try to get concrete board or green board behind it before I install, what are your expert opinions? I know I have the depth to install green board behind the surround, but I don't think it will fit if I install backer board on the ends.
    Is it really caulkless? Do the seams seal tight enough to preven moisture from getting behind the acrylic surround? Can I get away with just installing the surround to the studs?

    Please advise!
    Thank you in advance.




    Last edited by Terry; 11-13-2013 at 09:09 PM.

  2. #2
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    You can nail directly to studs. The way they are made any water that gets behind the acrylic surround will run into the tub. Look at the tub and the bottom of the walls and you will see groves that direct the water into the tub. They give specific instructions where to caulk and where not to caulk. Have you opened the box yet? More of these come through damaged then not.

    John
    Last edited by johnjh2o1; 11-09-2009 at 10:03 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default tub surround dry wall issue

    Thank you!

  4. #4
    DIY Member thebigsee's Avatar
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    I just finished installing a Sterling Ensemble Curve shower enclosure. I used galvanized truss screws to screw directly to the studs. I drilled the holes first and then screwed it in. Went very easy, but had to add furring strips in a few places. No need for cement board or anything like that.

    I too am a bit apprehensive about the lack of caulk, but I followed the directions. It is definitely the highest quality pre-fab that I could find. But as already stated, open the box immediately and check for cracks. It took 3 times before I got a back panel that wasn't cracked into the wall. Cracks on the flange are not a big deal, but it should not go into the actual body of the unit.

    They're clearly durable units, but they have problems I think with the packing material or need better instructions on how to handle it while moving it.

    Last edited by Terry; 11-13-2013 at 09:10 PM.

  5. #5
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    Thank you.
    Can I butt dry wall right up over the flap where the nails go?

  6. #6
    DIY Member thebigsee's Avatar
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    Follow the provided instructions on installing drywall over the flange. Essentially, you need to use moisture-resistant drywall with the papered-edge towards the unit on all sides. Keep at least a 1/8" gap between the unit and the drywall so that water will not wick up into the drywall. This gap should also be siliconed. It is essential that there is not direct contact between the unit and the drywall edge.

    I have also seen photos of units that were drywalled up to the flange, then a piece of wood trim was used to hide the flange. I considered that (you can remove the unit in the future without damaging drywall), but ended up just bringing the drywall down.

  7. #7
    DIY Member thebigsee's Avatar
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    Also -- make sure that you don't overtighten the screws on the flange. Just attach them enough so they secure the unit in place. If you screw it in too hard, the flange WILL crack, and if that crack goes into the wall material, you'll be very upset!

    And do put the tub into a mortar bed, it is the only way to go.

    Last edited by Terry; 11-13-2013 at 09:11 PM.

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