New vanity drain doesn't line up

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Mr Fixit eh

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I'm doing a bathroom reno and I've got a bad case of the drain stubout doesn't line up. There is 10 inches sideways distance from stubout to where the new drain will sit. The stubout comes 5 inches from the wall and the drain will be 8 inches from the wall.

So I think I'll need to cut the stubout back to a few inches from the wall and sweat on a 1 1/4 inch male copper 45 degree elbow + 6 inches of 1 1/4 copper DWV + 1 1/4 male adapter + slipnut. If I plan it well the p-trap extension should slip in nicely.

Does this seem like a sound plan?

Steve
 

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Lakee911

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I couldn't figure out what we were looking at there. Rotate picture (or head) and I get it now. :)

You can find various trap fittings that should allow you to move it over 10" or so. You wouldn't even need to mess with the copper although it might take a bit more room under the sink. Grab a pile of stuff from the store and start playing/fitting. Don't use any of that flexible junk though.

Jason
 

hj

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From here, it looks like 1 1/2" copper, and if so, you have a better chance of finding the fittings you need, but maybe not what you want, than if it is 1 1/4".
 

Mr Fixit eh

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It is 1 1/4 copper. First I was going to fit up ABS threaded to a 45 degree to a ABS trap - but I ran into a problem - after all the ABS fittings I'd need to transition the stubout would be so long, I'd need a 90 degree elbow - and I didn't like that.

So I had to cut back the copper stubout anyways - at that point it made sense to sweat in a copper elbow - 6 inches of 1 1/4 copper pipe - 1 1/4 male adapter - slip nut and washer to accept the chromed p-trap extension.


Until I got to the supply house - and practically had to re-finance the house to pay for the copper fittings:D

I had thought of running ABS slipjoint to the stubout (after it was cut back) to a PVC 45 degree elbow on to all ABS p-trap - but there isn't enough clearance between the hot water supply pipe and the drain stubout.

Steve
 

NHmaster

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Remove the cabinet. Cut a big hole in the drywall behind it. cut and reroute the drains and water supplies. Replace the drywall and cabinet. That would be the right way to go about it.
 

Mr Fixit eh

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Ripping open drywall is more work than I had planned on at this stage. I'm assuming that there would not be any problem with my proposed plan of extending the stubout at a 45 degree angle? Obviously, the rip-drywall-and-realign would make for a prettier, more 'professional' looking plumbing job.

Steve
 

hj

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If the parts cost that much then they were selling you 1 1/4 "pressure" fittings, not copper DWV ones, which are very inexpensive and much "lighter" than the pressure ones. DWV tubing is also less expensive than type "L" which is what they may have been selling you.
 
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