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Thread: head scratcher

  1. #1

    Default head scratcher

    We moved into a house about 5 years ago and the water pressure was 110 lbs. So I put a reducing valve on and set it at 55 lbs. ( on city water ) Everything has been fine except for the last week we have had low water pressure. When you turn on the water anywhere you have good pressure to start but after a minute it goes down to around 25 to 30 lbs. I put a gauge on the faucet and it read 55 lbs. I haven't done any digging to crimp a pipe....... Anybody know what could be the problem or where to start?

  2. #2
    Journeyman & Gas Fitter Doherty Plumbing's Avatar
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    Default

    Both hot and cold????

    What kind of HWT tank do you have and what year is it? If it's an older John wood there is a good chance the dip tube has disintegrated and is clogging up your faucets. This is a nasty problem!

    If that's not it then I would look at the PRV again. Maybe it's fouled up!

  3. #3
    Master Plumber-Gas Fitter shacko's Avatar
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    Default Water Pressure

    What you have to do is check the pressure before the PRV and see if there is a change, there's a possibility that the inconning pressure has changed due to work on the municipal system. If you still have high pressure before the PRV you problem is probably in the valve, maybe dirt.

  4. #4

    Unhappy

    You guys are quick!..... It's happening on both hot and cold.... I've got one of those Whirlpool flamelock's that's 5 yrs. old. It's always blowing up inside of it so I wonder if the inner glass shell is busted and could be the problem.?......

    Not sure how to go about checking the pressure before the prv but will call the city water people tomorrow..... I guess if they have no problem then I will be checking the prv. Thanks!

  5. #5
    Previous member
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    Default

    It's the PRV try rapping the bottom of it with a hammer while the water is running

  6. #6
    Apprentice Plumber D'Brie's Avatar
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    Default

    ...I've got one of those Whirlpool flamelock's that's 5 yrs. old. It's always blowing up inside of it so I wonder if the inner glass shell is busted and could be the problem.?......

    Not to spend your money here but those water heaters are crap. I'd put replacing it on my "to do" list. It's most likely coming to end of it's life (from experience).

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default heater

    There is no "inner glass shell". IF the glass lining goes bad the heater will be leaking. You have a bad PRV. It does not allow an overpressure to occur, but it also does not open fully during flow so the pressure drops.

  8. #8

    Default

    Can anybody tell me a good prv to get..... Is that the normal life span, 5 years? Could this be a diy job? The prv is in a hole about 1' square and about a foot deep.... Paid a plumber $200 5 years ago to replace the other one.

  9. #9
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ladder View Post
    It's always blowing up inside of it...

    What does this mean?

  10. #10

    Default

    What does this mean?
    When the water heater kicks on (gas), after a couple of minutes it will bubble inside and then make a series of " explosions" inside. I've found by opening a hot water faucet it will I guess relieve the pressure and it quits for a while. I really don't know what is exactly going on.......... Hope this makes sense.

  11. #11
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default noise

    Usually, opening a faucet and dropping the pressure CAUSES the noise. Whether you can DIY the replacement depends on many factors, starting with the make and model you have, how it is installed, and which one you purchased to replace it. As a general rule, if the old one is NOT installed with double unions, and the new one does not have them also, AND if it is not exactly the same length, it will be a very difficult replacement.

  12. #12

    Default

    Usually, opening a faucet and dropping the pressure CAUSES the noise
    Your right, at least for this summer and fall. The way I fill the washing machine now is turn on the cold water first to fill about half way and then the hot water the rest of the way. That way the washer is usually about full when the water heater kicks on and I won't hear the explosions....... BUT, last winter the water heater would do it's thing with the "explosions" just heating up and the only way I could stop it is by turning on a hot water faucet for a few seconds..... No more Cesspool (whirlpool) water heaters!

  13. #13

    Default

    I turned on the washing machine today and watched the water flow come out good in the beginning and then slow to probably half of what it was in the beginning. While the washing machine was filling, I put a pressure gauge on the outside faucet ( which is right outside the wall of the washing machine) and it read 55 lbs... Does anybody know how the outside faucet can read 55 lbs. but your getting low water pressure from the washer?....... The PRV has been set at 55 lbs. for 5 years now and everything has been fine except for the last week or so. Now when you flush the toilet you can barely wash your hands.

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