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Thread: Takagi's new T-H2 - PVC Venting and Heat Recovery

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member Noth Jersey's Avatar
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    Default Takagi's new T-H2 - PVC Venting and Heat Recovery

    This new unit uses PVC venting and has a second heat exchanger to recover heat from the vent stack. Ninety-five percent efficiency (LP) aside, I wonder if the savings on Cat III vent will offset the higher cost of the unit? I haven't seen prices yet. Whatever the case, this is an intriguing tankless unit:

    http://takagi.com/index.php?product_id=85&page_id=2

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member zl700's Avatar
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    It's their TH1 with an additional exhaust thermistor added to protect overheat of the PVC exhaust pipe, by turning down burner which in effect would change or lower the DHW output.

    Being it is the same model with new approvals, and once cost over $2,000, initial reports to me tell us that it will be pricey and up there in cost with the Noritz 842.

    Food for thought- All these condensing units don't cost a whole lot more to make than the non-condensing units. They cant drop the price too much on the 90%+ or it would erode the pricing structure on the existing 80%'s.

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    Illinois Licensed Plumber SewerRatz's Avatar
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    I would stick with the Noritz 842 and 841 first one is a few hundred bucks less its a residential version. Both have everything the Takagi has plus a built in neutralizer for the condensate, and comes with a controller, where the Takagi you have to purchase these as options.
    Last edited by SewerRatz; 10-16-2009 at 06:06 AM. Reason: fixed typo

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    DIY Senior Member zl700's Avatar
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    I feel that on the Noritz 842, the built in neutralizer is a hindrance versus a benefit regarding features.

    What if you didn't want to or didn't need to neutralize?

    Can you remove the material and will the unit still work?

    It does make the unit more difficult to service making it a benefit to the contractor though.

  5. #5
    Illinois Licensed Plumber SewerRatz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zl700 View Post
    I feel that on the Noritz 842, the built in neutralizer is a hindrance versus a benefit regarding features.

    What if you didn't want to or didn't need to neutralize?

    Can you remove the material and will the unit still work?

    It does make the unit more difficult to service making it a benefit to the contractor though.
    The condensate from any condensing unit is very corrosive, and needs to be neutralized. I would never install a condensing unit with out a neutralizer installed. Even if I put in a steel vented unit like the 751 and have a condensate tee on it I would run it through a neutralizer trap as well.

    Changing it out is very easy, you just open the fron cover remove the two clamps grab the container lift and pull out and reverse the process.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member zl700's Avatar
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    My point was it is quite easy to build a neutralizer that can last longer and be serviced exterior to the unit or on new homes connected to PVC drains really wouldn't be needed except when code enforced. Then of course adding a in-line unit exterior to the tankless is easier for all to change or service, and probably cost less.

    Take a lesson from the furnace guys, condensing furnaces dating back to 1978 have been installed without neutralizers, producing the same 4-6 PH condensate.

    Less than .025% of 90%+ furnaces get installed today with neutralizers.

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