The well seal bolts broke...now what?

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Jfharper

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Then that will be worth it.

Found one on **** for 102 plus 10 shipping, found another for 128...I'll keep looking:
http://cgi.****.com.my/Goulds-Pump-...umps?hash=item2c4da6b61a&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14
http://www.goulds-pumps.com/J10.html

You know, from my reading up on the pump, there appears to be a plug somewhere on the bottom of the pump...maybe that is leaking...I'll check that out.

Regarding pressure settings: There are two tanks. One is shot rated at 40psi precharged pressure. It is pitted and b/c I'll put 35 psi air in with a compressor, and a month later, the psi will be 0...I can also hear bubbles in water when filling this tank with air.

What I do to charge this tank is turn the booster off, run water from a spigot up by the house with the booster off, while filling the tank with air from a compressor. I have a water pressure gauge attached to a spigot about 1 foot from the tank, between the booster pump and two tanks. If the spigot up by the house starts to shoot air, I turn that spigot off, and continue to fill tank to 35 psi.

The other tank is rated at 30 psi precharged pressure. This one looks a bit newer, no pits. I originally thought both tanks were shot, and I thought filling the 40 psi tank to 35 psi (middle ground between 30 psi tank and 40 psi tank) according to my attached water pressure gauge meant that was good enough for the whole system...I never thought to check the other tank. Recently, I realized I should check it...I know...that was dumb.

So I did and the psi read 0 on the 30 psi tank, so I added some air and noticed the valve stem was leaking...I took a stem from an old tire I had, replaced the bad one, and the stem no longer leaks. Then I charged this tank up to ~35 psi...is that ok since the precharged pressure is rated 30 psi...I think I remember reading on the label don't exceed 100 psi or something really high like that? I thought 35 would be OK.

I also set my pressure switch cut in to ~36psi, and cut-out at 60psi. The booster turns on and runs for 1 minute 2 seconds before turning off.

Is anything I'm doing not quite correct? I know I need to replace the bladder or tank of the 40 psi shot tank...I'm just trying to tackle one issue at a time.

Also, when I put air in the 40 psi tank the other day, I noticed the rotten egg odor almost went away. I remember reading that the sulfur bacteria will emit hydrogen sulfide gas in the absence of oxygen. Perhaps the system was so low with air the bacteria were really pumping out the gas (no pun)...but when I charged the shot tank, they now had air, thus for the decrease of smell...now. Someone replied chlorinating the system is only a quick fix...there is a bigger problem somewhere else...I wonder if it is in the shot tank...perhaps loads of sulfur bacteria are in that tank. Anyway, I still have to chlorinate the system. Sorry for the long post.
 
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NHmaster

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that may be closer to retail, I forgot that I buy them at wholesale. Maybe Gary can give you a deal, He is a Goulds platinum dealer.
 

Jfharper

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Hi All,
I can't believe it has been a year since I repaired the well cap. I finally ordered the pump rebuild kit last July and only now need to get around to rebuilding it. The leak has gotten worse and now the rotten egg smell is returning, probably due to the compromised integrity of the system being the opening leak at the booster. I have an old Massy Fergusen Tractor I rebuilt over the summer which took up all my time, amongst other things like family, business, house, etc...whew, I thought life was supposed to get easier the older you get, and I am only 40! ;)

Anyway, I'll plan to rebuild the booster this saturday in case it takes me a while, then after that is done, I'll shock treat the system again to get rid of the sulfur bacteria, if that is the cause.

So my question is, is there anything I may want to know or consider before rebuilding the booster? Are there any short cuts to make it easier, like do I have to remove the pump from the system, or can I leave the front housing connected to the pipes and simply remove the motor and rebuild from there.

So my plan is this:
1. disconnect electical to booster and any surrounding things so electicity is not part of the mix.
2. close valves to isolate inlet and outlet to pump...I know there are valves out there...I have to figure what will work.
3. discharge the system in the tanks so there is now pressure.
4. remove electrical connectors to pump.
5. remove pump (hopefully I can skip this step).
6. put pump on workbench and start removing things in order to figure it out and rebuid.
7. clean it, and rebuild with new stuff.
8. the reverse steps 5-1.

Anyone have any advice on this...thanks a ton in advanced.

Also, should i soak any rebuild parts in a mild chlorine solution to disinfect before assembly?
 
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