14" Rough-In Toilet Choices

[Fox]

If you don't care about space, and money is important, you can always install a round bowl and have it set out from the wall about 3"

But if you want to pull a bowl back closer to the wall, and pick up "leg room" and space in the bathroom, then using the skirted Toto bowl with the 14" Unift is the only solution.

?

The ProFlo looks like it will set out from the wall 3/4" fitted with the tank for 14" offset, and be 29 3/4" from the back wall to end of bowl.

http://dar.proflo.com/darmanager/Que...=SPECIFICATION

29 3/4" is 1" greater than the elongated TOTO. Not nearly as dramatic as the 3 1/2" difference to the elongated Sterling.

I can purchase 4 ProFlos for less than 1 TOTO and a 14" unifit. The trade off; 1" less "leg room", a round bowl and I'm sure a lesser quality toilet.

Thanks for all this information, I'll report back if I have the ProFlo specs wrong.

[Terry]

Almost any round bowl will be something like 29.5 from the back wall on a 14" rough.
It doesn't really matter unless you are worried about leg room.

[Fox]

Leg room is exactly what I'm trying to maximize. And with the 14" rough it is an ugly game of inches.

Here is a list of 14" rough in toilets that maximize leg room, all round bowls.

Make/Model -Total depth - Distance from wall
Kohler/Wellworth - 29 5/8" - 3/4"
ProFlo/PF2200 - 29 3/4" - 3/4"
American Standard/Cadet - 30 1/4" - 1"
Sterling/Wiindham - 30 1/4 - 1"

If you know of one that is only 29.5" please let me know.

[Terry]

The Toto Drake round front is 29.5" on a 14" rough
CST743E or CST743S
I'm selling these for $199.99
But then you can get the Proflo for less.

The non Toto toilets mentioned above do not move the bowl back. They are standard 12" bowls set at 14", thus you wind up losing leg room. With some bathrooms, that's not an issue.

The reason this thread was here, was for people that wanted more leg room, which means either replumbing the bathroom, or finding a bowl that can be pulled back to 12"
Only the Skirted Toto bowls do that, but keep in mind that any toilet will fit on a 14", it's just that they set farther out into the room.

An elongated bowl set at 12" in the room gives you 2" more leg room when sitting down at 28-3/4" to end of bowl
Then a round bowl set at 14" that measures 29-1/2" to end of bowl.
The Proflo would lose 2-1/4" at 29-3/4" to end of bowl.
The A/S Cadet is even longer.

[Alan Muller]

I don't see the point of making a big fuss about a 14" tank. As noted, it doesn't move the bowl. So unless having the tank sit out from the wall really bothers you, just use a regular 12" toilet. Or use the Toto setup that actually positions the toilet correctly. But unless the china is actually cracked or has something jammed into the trapway, you can replace everything on most toilets pretty easily. Tank bolts, bowl/tank gasket, fill valve, flush valve, flapper, trip lever. You can get all this stuff for $20 or so at a decent hardware store or home center. (Of course, some toilets have unusual hardware or don't flush well or waste expensive water or you hate how it looks or whatever...) It's usually a lot easier to change all the trim on what you have than to haul in a new toilet and dispose of the the old one. And when you are done you'll know how it works!

[tjk045]

I have a few questions for you. After seaching online for days, you(Terry) seem to be the most "qualified" and maybe you can help me.
You listed Toto toilets that will work with 14" unifit. Is that ALL the Toto toilets that will move 2"? What can I do with a 12" unifit? How far will that move the toilet?
Ok, here's my situation...who ever built, worked on, "improved" on my house, they screwed up most of it. I'm redoing my bathroom. They had a homemade sinktop that extended over the back of the toilet. After removing it, I see why they added that hideous countertop. It covered the 3 1/2" gap behind the toilet. This is a pretty small bathroom and I would like to move it back to where it "should be". It's roughed in at 15 1/2"!!! Imagine that...with a 3 1/2" gap. Anyway, it's also a slab house. So it's not very moveable without busting up concrete. I can live with the "grand canyon" gap if I have to. And don't have a lot to spend right now. What are my options here? Besides leaving it "in the middle of the room"...I assume I have a standard 12" now.
What would a 12" Toto Carusoe with 12" unifit do in my situation? Do I need a 12" toilet, 14" unifit? Or do I have to get a 14" toilet and the 14" unifit? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

[tjk045]

or anyone with any advise/knowledge of this situation...feel free to respond

[tjk045]

oh...and would a Toto round or elongated be better? The same? Any opinions?

[Terry]

Models from Toto that allow you to move the bowl back 2" with their 14" Unifit adapter are:
Vespin
Carlyle
Carrollton
Carolina
Lloyd
Pacifica
Soiree
Guinevere

[tjk045]

I guess I have another question. And it may be a stupid one, but here it is. Could I get a Toto unifit, in whatever size would work the best for me, and use it with any standard 12" toilet? or is there not the same room under other brands?

[tjk045]

Hello. Thanks for responding. So what does a 12" toilet with 12" unifit do?

[Terry]

The 12" toilet with the 12" unifit would not move. It would act and feel like a 12".
A 12" toilet with the 10" unifit could set out farther in the room by 2"
A 12" toilet with the 14" unifit would snuggle a little closer to the wall by 2"

Either way, 15-1/2" is a long ways out.

[tjk045]

Thank you very much. So there really isn't much difference in how far it would move back with a 12" toilet with 14" unifit and a 14" with a 14"?

[tjk045]

Ok...I think I might be missing something here. You listed again the Toto models that move the bowl back 2". I'm looking at one of the cheapest Totos I see. A 12" Carusoe with a 12" unifit. Could I buy that toilet and the 14" unifit and get the toilet back 2"?

[tjk045]

and yes, it is A LONG WAYS OUT. And it's literally driving me nuts. I'm about to build something over it to hide it!