(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 8 of 9 FirstFirst 123456789 LastLast
Results 106 to 120 of 131

Thread: 14" Rough-In Toilet Choices

  1. #106
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,405

    Default

    What's underneath that room? It may not be all that big a deal to move the water supply over (even if it is tiled), or to move it up into the wall. With the right tools, it's probably less than 10-minutes to make a nice clean hole through tile and the subflooring, then, moving the pipe may or may not take awhile, but with good access, it's not a huge job.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  2. #107
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gerggyb View Post
    here is my situation however, my water supply comes up through the floor at 6.5" left of center. if i understand correctly, that is too close to the toilet to work with the unifit system.
    How close to the toilet centerline does your plumbing go? If the pipe and attachments are centered 6.5 inches left of center, and the max diameter is 1 inch, then you could use a base that was narrower than 12 inches. That could be done. So the pipe diameter and what is screwed into that pipe would be factors.

  3. #108
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The Gerber Viper specs well. A bit on the long side for you.

    The Peerless I can't find the map score.
    It does look like you have a choice of bowls though. The web information is a little sparce.

  4. #109
    DIY Junior Member gerggyb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ames, IA
    Posts
    2

    Default

    thanks guys.
    i went with the peerless (form over function). it fits the space. i will admit it shows the signs of a cheap company: plastic handle, no installation instructions. however, it is still a lo-low toilet (1.6) and it doesn't run. i see this as an opportunity for data collection; i will check in over the next year and let y'all know if its still working. it could be that it doesn't last, it could be that it turns out to be just fine...

    thanks again

  5. #110
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gerggyb View Post
    thanks guys.
    i went with the peerless (form over function). it fits the space.
    That's different: the 10, 12, and 14 inch rough-in use the same tank but different bowl. http://www.peerlesspottery.com/toile...7161-7164.html

    http://www.peerlesspottery.com/toilet_independence.html has the more common same-bowl-different-tank. The description says "Made possible, in part, by the 1st fully automated pressure cast bowl machines in the U.S." Are they new machines, or did they pick up vintage machines? :-)
    Last edited by Reach4; 10-22-2013 at 09:41 AM. Reason: correction

  6. #111
    DIY Junior Member waldoinc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hello, having read all the posts on this thread today, I have decided to try and describe my problem. When my plumber got ready to rough-in my master bath's private toilet, he discovered that the HVAC guys had put ductwork where the toilet plumbing was supposed to go. This meant that the toilet had to be moved several inches further away from the wall than desired. This has left a gaping space behind the Delta toilet I had installed. Plus, although the inside-opening door clears the toilet, it does so by only a scant few inches. We would be much better served if the toilet could be moved back toward the wall as much as possible, and to improve clearance from the door as well. What I am asking is, does the Toto Vespin II offer the best possible adjustment in this regard, in conjunction with the 14" Unifit? Keep in mind that I have several inches to work with behind the toilet, but cannot move anything underneath it. I have not yet measured the location of the water supply in the wall to make sure it will not obstruct, although I doubt that will matter because of the space available.

  7. #112
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The Vespin II is 28-1/4" long, and normally has 3/4" behind it on a 12" rough. Using the 14" Unift, you can pull it closer to the wall 2"
    There aren't too many toilet bowls you can do that with.
    What is your current rough, and how far is the bowl from the back wall?

  8. #113
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,405

    Default

    Most (not all) 14" rough-in toilets project into the room an extra 2" verses their 12" cousin, but to fill the area behind them, they get a thicker tank. Toto uses the same toilet, and compensates with their UniFit adapter, so the same toilet will sit in exactly the same position in the room if it is on a 10, 12, or 14" Unifit, as long as it matches up with the 10, 12, or 14" rough-in. When installed that way, most of them have about 3/4" clearance behind the tank to the wall. The Vespin II is a nice toilet...I have an older Vespin and a Carlyle in my home, and they have been trouble-free for going on ten years now. Depending on your water, with what I have, I find I need to replace the flapper valve about every 5-years ,as it eventually softens and then starts to sag and leak. Some report much longer, and some woefully shorter (if they use chemicals in the tank, but that's true of any brand for the most part). I have the fill valve made for Toto by Korky (they do use a couple of other suppliers), and I've needed to replace the seal on one of them once (about a 2-minute job, no tools required). The parts are readily available locally (Lowes, most hardware stores, some other big box stores)...so, I've been happy.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #114
    DIY Junior Member waldoinc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hi Terry, I did not find the receipt yet, but I think it is a Delta Prelude round front with a 12" rough-in. I bought three of them at Home Depot. I forgot to measure any of this last night, but I would say that the back of the toilet is at least eight inches away from the wall. I had talked to my plumber and had (ignorantly) hoped that I could get a toilet with a 14" rough-in and then use an adapter and get it moved back toward the wall a total of 4", gaining that same additional clearance between the toilet and the door. If this would work it would go a long way toward fixing a totally unnecessary mistake. That toilet looks awkward sitting so far away from the wall, and the door cannot be closed while sitting on the toilet.
    American Standard made a 14" rough-in, comfort height with a round front, #2757.016, that I thought would allow my solution, but they have discontinued it. Reading this thread yesterday made me think it would not have worked anyway.

  10. #115
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by waldoinc View Post
    Hello, having read all the posts on this thread today, I have decided to try and describe my problem. When my plumber got ready to rough-in my master bath's private toilet, he discovered that the HVAC guys had put ductwork where the toilet plumbing was supposed to go. This meant that the toilet had to be moved several inches further away from the wall than desired.
    Were you your own general contractor? Somebody messed up, and maybe you can get some help in making it right.

    Put in the 12-inch rough-in and adjust the HVAC ducts to accommodate. From what I have seen, an 11.5 inch rough-in from the finished wall might be even better, since many toilets leave a 3/4 inch spacing behind the tank.

  11. #116
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    it is a Delta Prelude round front with a 12" rough-in bowl.
    You would gain an inch to the end of the bowl with a 14" Unifit bowl, and your knees sitting down would gain 2-1/2" with the 14" Unifit.
    Using a Unift adapter to move a bowl 2" would not be a total fix in your situation, but it does something.

    Moving the rough-in at the floor, and heating duct is going to cost someone a lot.

    A total of 2.5" combined saving when sitting down.
    Added after questions below this one
    Last edited by Terry; 12-10-2013 at 12:33 PM.

  12. #117
    DIY Junior Member waldoinc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Yes, I was my own GC. My plumber is a good one and a trusted friend and relative, but the HVAC guys were the worst mistake I made in the entire project. It can't be made right, so we just have to deal with it as best we can. If nothing else, it is functional, but we would like to improve its appearance and function.

  13. #118
    DIY Junior Member waldoinc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    6

    Default

    So that would be three and a half inches? That would be a heck of a lot of difference in the accessibility of the toilet for my wife, who is the only one who uses it. And this toilet would be white with a comfort height? And isn't this the only known way (that does not involve demolition) to get that much more clearance from the door?

    Thanks!
    Gene

  14. #119
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    A total of 2.5" combined saving when sitting down.

  15. #120
    DIY Senior Member Reach4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by waldoinc View Post
    Yes, I was my own GC. My plumber is a good one and a trusted friend and relative, but the HVAC guys were the worst mistake I made in the entire project. It can't be made right, so we just have to deal with it as best we can. If nothing else, it is functional, but we would like to improve its appearance and function.
    1. If the duct is in a crawl space, couldn't you dig out some dirt and bypass around a moved rough-in? A photo posted in an HVAC forum might point out a practical solution.

    2. Maybe consider installing a shelving unit behind the new toilet on the existing flange to make it look almost like you planned it that way.

Similar Threads

  1. TOTO choices for 11" rough in
    By tsdad1995 in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 02-13-2012, 06:53 AM
  2. What are my choices with 13 3/4 rough in?
    By moneypitowner in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-15-2009, 09:04 AM
  3. budget toilet choices
    By avalon in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-10-2009, 06:01 PM
  4. 14" Rough-In Toilet Choices
    By cgskiking in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-30-2009, 03:16 PM
  5. 10 inch rough in choices
    By clueless2 in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-14-2005, 03:53 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •