richdel

[dock dave]

I have a four zone sprinkler system with richdel valves. I have replaced all four solenoids,all diaphrams, all wiring and the timer box. The problem is some zones will not come on without fiddling with the bleed screw and on one zone I have to re-tighten the screw to shut that zone off. Any suggestions? all valves are free of any dirt etc.

[BRD]

Dock,
Need a little more info here. Can you supply the model # of the valve or at least tell me if the top portion is secured by screws or is it a jar top type of valve. For the moment I'll asume that all the components you replaced are good and your getting juice to the solinoids. If thats the case it's more likely a hydraulic problem, which may be easily fixed. Also, is it happening to all four valves or are some working properly off the controller.

[dock dave]

The valves are ridel 204 , now called the 205. Sorry I thought I had put that in the original question. The diaphrams are secured by the 8 screw pattern, all zones flow excellently when activated. If anything, I might have too much pressure, definitely not a low pressure or flow problem. The owner of Sprinkler supplies for less .com was very helpful, previously, in telling me , with the new solenoids on the old style valve I needed to remove the white plastic ring around the plunger, which got my system, at least functioning. The only problem that seems to be remaining is the bleed screws. I have to loosen two of them until I hear the valve start flowing, at which point they leak a little, but that starts the zone . Then the zone works great, but on the one zone I have to go back and loosen the bleed screw again and wait till I hear the valve seal shut. If I tighten the bleed screw during operation of the most annoying zone, it will immediately shut off again.

[BRD]

Sounds like a problem another guy had not too long ago. You should not have to loosen the solenoid to make the zone work. When you loosen the bleed screw and water exits you're basically doing what the solinoid plunger operation does when it is operating correctly. If you remove the solenoid, that small exhaust port under the plunger HAS to be open. It is very tiny so it does not take much to plug it up and thereby prevent the valve from opening. A tiny # 18 or 20 guage wire should pass thru without obstruction. Just to be sure, I would take the top part of the valve off the body and check that passageway to make sure it is open. Look thru it, you should be able to see daylight. Then, also, and this is just as important check that the passageway in the valve body to the outlet side of the valve is open. Use the wire. If that port is clogged, the water on the upper side of the valve diaphragm has no place to go, so it stays shut. When you open the bleed screw, the water is evacuated out the top and the valve opens. If this is the problem and its happening on 2-3 valves, sounds like dirt, grit got in the system some how??? Are you on a well and if so is it filtered? Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.

[American Irrigation]

The above poster is correct you bleed port is either clogged, or misaligned. The 205 valve has a bleed port below the solenoid, that must be aligned with the same port in the casing. It looks terribly like a screw hole, and if you dont oreintate the bonnet correctly the valve will also not work. Check for debris, or misalignment.

[hj]

Something is wrong with the solenoids. Either they are not opening far enough to start the cycle, but are enough to keep it going, at least with the ones you can close the bleeder again. The one you have to leave open is apparently not opening at all, or very slightly. The solenoids may have been installed without the "O" ring to give the proper spacing, or the solenoids do not have enough movement to operate your valves.

[Daniels]

I have found that some of the older valves have this same trouble when installing a newer style solenoid. Often I have cured it just by removing the keeper (It was designed for our convenience but not necessary to operation) for the plunger. With it in, the new solenoid will screw down far enough to stop the flow by trapping the discharge orifice with the keeper. Unscrew it and it just flips out with a small screwdriver and there you go. Don't lose the plunger and spring when you reinstall it.