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Thread: Softeners, resin, and iron removal

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    I have SST-60 resin installed in the softener in my home and have been very satisfied with it. Based on my research it is commonly used in residential units. When the resin was initially installed it did required a complete regeneration before it would deliver clear water. I think a regeneration is what is meant by field conditioning. There is an employee of Purolite, Gary Schreiber, that posts on some boards on the internet and if you are concerned about using SST-60 in a residential application you might want to specifically post a question to Gary or to Purolite.

  2. #17
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    http://www.purolite.com/RelId/606818...ifications.htm

    my apoligizes if this cause anyone some worries.

    regards,
    martyo
    If you follow that link the certification that is posted for SST-60 has expired--in other words it is not currently listed unless there is another later certification.

    Also, if you go to the NSF website and search for a certification for SST-60 none is returned. Here is the NSF website search: http://www.nsf.org/certified/consume...s_advanced.asp

  3. #18
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    SST-60 isn't the only thing I'm right about, you as yet don't know about the other things.

    As to the softener... IF you have a 20 gpm peak demand flow rate, you need a softener with a constant SFR higher than 20 gpm.

    You don't base that on the gpm rating of the pump.

    I would not sell you a softener with a 20 gpm constant SFR or to do with it what you are saying you want to do, and as you want to do. To size a softener I need more info by way of a phone call.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  4. #19
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    I've got 20 GPM flow at my house to the softener input, and need to size a new softener to handle it (filter IRON at a high flow rate) when I install a sprinkler system that will be set up to deliver 20 GPM per zone.
    Softeners are not typically used to treat water used for irrigation because a softener exchanges sodium for the iron, manganese and hardness and elevated levels of sodium are generally not good for plants. Softeners can be regenerated with potassium chloride rather than sodium chloride but it is much more expensive and more must be used so it is not, in my view, a viable alternative for treating irrigation water.

    There are alternative methods to remove iron and manganese to achieve your objective of avoiding staining that do not use ion exhange and the resultant elevated levels of sodium in the treated water. In my opinion, you would be well advised to use something other than a softener to treat your irrigation water.

  5. #20
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    Bob,

    Yep heard about that too and agree salt needs to be understood., but I live in the northeast (mucho rain) just not consistant and also have low grain count in well water. If I lived in Arizona or had high grain count, then no softener, but living where rain dilutes the salt and not many salt ions exchanged because of grain count, wammo, no salt build up. And the sprinkler is not used year long.

    AND if I have a very efficient softener I use less salt is used (why interested in SST-60) or I can us potassium cloride instead of sodium cloride during that short strech.

    Just need sprinkler for 1-3 months, depending on the weather. Example was this year, it was a mild and wet summer.

    Soon will throw some money at the softener system to get ready for next year when we do some planting of the usual stuff along with grass (legal stuff of course). Also going to polish it off with a parellel filter of Carbon with KDF55, this should cover most uglies.

    Going parellel cause had a funny experience last summer, came home from the beach and everyone wanted a shower (last day and we checked out of our rooms already but we visited the ocean) wife thru stuff in cloths washer, she forgot to turn on dishwasher when we left for vacation so she turned it on when we got home, and I turned on a hose sprinkler for vegetable garden in back and one for little flower garden in front. So we got 3 showers, dishwasher, clothes washer, and 2 outside outside faucets running at the same time. Well we had IRON leakage (for a lack of a better word, took a couple of days to get rid of the smell, wife cleaned the shower floors. Caused me to do some research on are present softener, learned a few things about filtering.

    regards,
    martyo
    You clearly have your mind made up and have stopped listening. You may have learned "a few things about filtering" but you haven't yet learned what you don't know. It looks like you are going to have to learn the hard way.

  6. #21
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    I've got 20 GPM flow at my house to the softener input,
    And how do you know that?

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    As in most sprinkler systems installations, the sprinkler system will be designed to work directly off of the well not the pressure tank.
    And the softener is at the house?

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    When you said my dual 90ks were way too large, I concluded either you didn't really understand my situation or you didn't really know what you were talking about.
    I didn't know then that you wanted to soften the irrigation water. Whihc is a very dumb idea because if it rained as much as you think it will, you wouldn't need irrigation. And trust me, 1-3 months in NJ is more than enough time to kill vegetation with softened water.

    The other problem is that when the irrigation is not being used, your 3 cuft tank is probably going to be way too big for the house peak demand, but I can't say for sure until I have more info.

    My business is booming like days of old right now.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #22
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    20 gpm was figured out by measuring water held in pressure tank and then divided by the time it took the well to file the tank back up.
    But that's not what you need to know to size the softener for a house, which in your first post you didn't say you were softening the irrigation water.

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    In almost all my posts I've been stating how the softener will filter out the IRON for the sprinkler system zones near the house and hardscape. For some reason you ignore the data given too you. Since sprinker usage is limited to a few months I have the flexibility of going to potasium cloride or just using regular salt. Also grains are low so salt added to water isn't high. but again you don't listen.
    And as I said, and you now say, you haven't said in all your posts that you wanted to softener all the water including the irrigation water.

    I'm not ignoring what you say or not listening, I have commented on what you have said. And you're using incorrect assumptions because you think you know everything, and that is not true.

    Quote Originally Posted by MartyO View Post
    getting a chuckle out of you and bob99, or is it bob and you, how many other aliases do you have? Saw an interesting article that described folks who post on forums with many alias tend to always think they are right so they create aliases that agree with them.

    chuckle chuckle chuckle,
    martyo
    That makes no sense... they think they are right so they use aliases that agrees with them! WHY would they do that since they think they are right to begin with?

    I've been using my real name in posts like this since Jan 1997. A Bob Schafer (sic) if IIRC, called me a few months ago and I think it was Bob999 but don't know for sure. He said he was from PA, and Bob999 says he is. I'm from PA but live in my motor home and we are currently in AZ and haven't been in PA since Sept 2007. I have a 3.5 year old cell phone with a 570 (PA) area code phone number, it's the only phone we have. I told the Bob that called me that he didn't need the piece of equipment he asked me about. Terry, the owner here would probably be glad to check and tell you if Bob999 and I are the same person. Anyway, Bob or me, as far as I can recall, neither of us gave you any incorrect info.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #23
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    It seems you failed to notice how much you remind us of a Previous Member.
    Last edited by Gary Slusser; 12-03-2009 at 05:51 PM.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #24
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by george57 View Post
    I've known you to use other names and not "real" names before. So you are misleading.
    Actually my statement is true; I have used my real name since Jan 1997.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

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