Cast Iron Torque Set Closet Flange Install

I'm installing a Jones Stephens torque set cast iron closet flange and have a few questions. (See attached picture)

The floor is a 3/4" plywood subfloor with 1/4" CBU, suntouch mat, approx 1/4" of mud/thinset over the mat, nobleseal TS then tile thinset on the nobleseal.

I've installed the lower half of the two piece flange roughly level with the CBU which results it the top flange resting on the top of the finished tile when it is bolted into the lower flange. The CI closet bend sticks up approx 1/8" above the finished floor.

I'm ready to install the top flange and want to make sure I on the right track. The top flange installs with 3 bolts into the lower flange and also expands a rubber ring on the lower flange that seals to the pipe O.D.

1) Is the height correct? (I've read in some postings that the top of the flange should be flush with the floor)

2) How do you remove the rubber test cap? I assume you cut it out somehow

3) I'd like to have the already installed floor membrane seal around the closet flange somehow. Right now it covers the top surface of the lower flange (with the CI closet bend sticking thru). Can I i just caulk where the two halves of the flange fit into each other and/or just let the membrane material get pushed in where the two halves fit together?

Thanks

Bob M

The flange should set on top of the finish floor. Be sure to also screw the flange down to the floor.

John

bobcatm,sounds like your on the right track.Bottom of the flange *on* the finished floor.
I've not dealt with this style of flange so I'm of little help here but please let us how it goes!
Thanks.

Thanks for confirming installing the flange on top of the tile..finishing the tile grouting today. Will then screw top flange into subfloor with 2" #12 stainless screws - then tighten down the 3 bolts that compress the rubber on the lower flange to seal around the CI closet bend.

Also just plan to caulk around floor membrane around where it meets the CI closet bend. As far as the rubber test cap - plan to just cut it out around the OD of end the closet bend.

Bob M

How do you deterime the rough-in of the toilet bowl itself

How do you measure the rough in dimension of an old toilet bowl itself?

I'm installing a two-piece (wall mounted tank) toilet in my 1895 home. A few years back I got a toilet from a neighbor that appeared to exactly match one of my other toilets. So I roughed in the new closet flange to 14" (which was the same location of the old closet flange)

Turns out this toilet needs a 10" rough in because the spud connection is further "forward" (away from the wall) relative to closet flange bolts as compared the my other existing bowl.

So I'm off to the salvage yard to get another rear spud bowl - but not sure about how to measure the rough in of the bowl- I'm guessing that I just need to eyeball how the rear spud lines up with the closet flange bolt. Is this correct?

Thanks

Are you talking about a toilet with a chrome flush ell between tank and bowl?
If so you just cut the flush ell to the length needed.

John

Thanks for the reply...

cutting the flush/tank elbow would work if the problem was that the bowl was too close to the wall --- my problem is (was - I just got a 14" rough in old bowl that matches the rest of the house for $50) that the bowl was too far for the 6" arm of the standard 6x8 flush elbow to reach the tank and I needed the full 8" for the vertical ... I have seen 8x10's on the internet (polished nickel for $165!!) but only could find 6x8 locally