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Thread: Tub replacement

  1. #1

    Default Tub replacement

    Greetings,

    I'm replacing an alcove tub/shower. I've already demo'd the old, squared and plumbed the walls in prep for the tile setup as well as replaced the valve.

    I was hoping to find a new tub with the same demensions as the one I removed but am not having any luck. I wanted to do this so I could use the same drain setup.

    how would the pros go about installing a new tub and setting up the drain to match? the current drain was set and concrete poured around it(probably for support?) see pictures. should concrete be set around the drain??

    My first thought would be to try measuring to set the drain and then cut a access panel in the wall to connect the overflow.

    ideas??

    thanks
    Scott
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    Thanks,
    Scott

  2. #2
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    You will have a better chance winning the Irish Sweepstakes than finding a match...even if the spec. sheet matches odds are the tub won't...

    You should bust out the concrete and remove the old trap then install the tub and reinstall a new trap and tub drain from and throuigh the wall behind the tub...

  3. #3
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default drain

    I, and most experienced plumbers, would break the concrete and remove the drain assembly, not the trap. Then assemble the new drain on the tub, measure where it goes, then take it off the tub, and assemble it to the existing trap riser. Once that is done, the tub is set over it, and if everythign was measured correctly it will be in place to insert and tighten the drain and overflow trim pieces. It is a rare tub where we have the luxury of installing the tub and then being able to fit the drain to it.

  4. #4
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    That is glued ABS and it is very likely to be glued into the trap...

    That is why I would likely remove and reinstall a new trap also...
    Last edited by Cass; 09-15-2009 at 06:42 AM.

  5. #5

    Default

    I was afraid you guys were going to say that probaby why I've been puttin it off for so long.

    so if all goes well do I fill the hole back up with concrete after the tub is installed?

    thanks for the input.
    Thanks,
    Scott

  6. #6
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scott99 View Post
    I was afraid you guys were going to say that probaby why I've been puttin it off for so long.

    so if all goes well do I fill the hole back up with concrete after the tub is installed?

    thanks for the input.
    The concrete should go back. This it to prevent termites from entering the home through the opening in the slab.

    John

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member
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    Question Help needed with tub installation!

    I too am installing an American standard model 2425 whirlpool tub. The size is 60x32. 1- Can anyone tell me how much morter I should have on hand for this installation and how to set the tub in the morter so it ends up correct? 2- The spec sheet says the drain center must be 10 1/2" from the front wall stud and 16" from the side wall stud. If I install the drain at this location will I still have to dry fit the tub to see if everything lines up, then remove it and fill the hole with cement and then reset the tub using the morter this time, or will the piping and drain location be good if the measurements are accurate and I only set it once? 3- The existing 2" piping comes in at an angle and the trap is all glued together. The old shower drain was 4 1/2" from the front stud and 15" from the side stud. I will have to locate the new drain 10 1/2" from the front wall stud and 16" from the side wall stud. I guess I will have to cut off the old trap and put in a new one in order to get everything in the right location. Is there a trick to getting the drain to end up in the right spot? Any tips that might make this easier are apreciated. I already chipped out the hole per the directions with the tub. Thanks for any help. Sorry the
    Last edited by Top Dogs; 09-20-2009 at 09:23 AM.

  8. #8

    Default

    should I use mortor mix or concrete mix to fill the hole after I replace the drain?
    Thanks,
    Scott

  9. #9
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default cement

    Our inspectors say the concrete is to keep gophers out of the house. NOTHING keeps termites out.

  10. #10

    Default

    okay, so about 2 hours of chipping away concrete I can see the drain and trap that I need to remove. looks like I don't have an option of changing just the drain as there is no riser showing in order to couple a new drain to.

    look like from the trap there is a 2 to 1.5 reducer coupling that the drain attaches to.

    so the plan is to cut the trap out at the main pipe and replace all. is that a standard config to have which looks to be a 2 inch main and a 2 inch trap, then the reducer to 1.5 for the riser? or should I look for a 1.5 inch trap?

    it also looks like there is carpet padding wrapped around the pipe and trap, I'm assuming that is for movement and I should do the same with the new setup before I fill the hole with cement?
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    Thanks,
    Scott

  11. #11

    Default ABS glue

    question on ABS cleaner:

    can you use the cleaner on the pipe and wait a period of time before you actually use the ABS glue and attached the pieces? or do you need to apply cleaner then glue in one step?

    it seems the cleaner is also a solvent that melts the pipe when applied.
    Thanks,
    Scott

  12. #12
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    Not sure about abs, but on pvc, you shouldn't wait too long after you use the cleaner before you add the cement and join the pieces. Have you read the instructions on the cans?
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  13. #13
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Default

    If you are using new pipe & fittings cleaner is not needed on ABS.

    John

  14. #14

    Default trap size

    It doesn't say on the cleaner jar if you can wait or not. I was just asking as I recall last time I used the cleaner it was almost like using the glue. definitely can tell the difference between ABS cleaner and PVC cleaner..

    anyway on my trap, should I go with a 2inch trap and then a reducer coupler for the 1.5 inch riser, or use the reducer coupler off the 2inch main and go with a 1.5inch trap? does it matter?
    Thanks,
    Scott

  15. #15
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Default

    NO...use 1.5" trap.....

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