46&2
New Member
Hi y'all, this is my first post on this forum; I've found tons of great info here in the past....so thank you!
I'm re-modeling my master bath. I have all of my new valves and trim, and I'm working on roughing-in the Tub/Shower valve, and I have a few questions.
First off I need a bit of clarification on my installation instructions.
The rough-in instructions have this note:
"Use only 1/2″ pipe (galvanized steel) or 1/2″ (5/8″ OD) copper pipe (type
L or M) between the valve and bath spout. Using other materials may cause
backpressure and result in water flowing from the showerhead and bath spout at the same time."
So basically; use only "standard" metal plumbing and maintain at least 1/2" ID all the way from the valve to the spout.. but what if I use brass or bronze elbows? I believe that this note is intended to address restriction/flow rather than the actual metal that is being used...right?
There is also this:
"Locate the valve and install 1/2" piping and elbows to bath and shower outlets. Do not use multiple elbows on the spout outlet."
Is the "Spout Outlet" referring ONLY to the "Bath Outlet" and NOT the "Shower Outlet"? I can not seem to find the proper nomenclature for the parts of the "system" and I intend to use more than one elbow between the valve and the "Shower Outlet" because I need to plumb around a recessed shelf that is going in the shower wall.
Now on to the real questions.
The install instructions call for 1/2" sweat to 1/2" Female NPT drop ear elbows to be secured to bracing in the wall, and then threaded nipples are used to connect the "Bath Spout" and "Shower Head" to the elbows.
Can I instead use 1/2" sweat to 1/2" sweat drop ear elbows in the wall with a straight coupler attached to a copper 1/2" sweat to 1/2" Male NPT adapter protruding through the finished wall, and thread my Spout and shower head directly to it? My escutcheons will fit over the adapters.
The way I see it, this will eliminate one of the two threaded joints, and the most critical one at that; the one in the wall, and allow me to more easily meet the 1-1/4" protrusion of the fitting from the finished wall with out jerking around with nipples.
I personally think this is a better approach in general, however I am concerned about twisting the copper when threading on the spout and head.
I am using L-Type pipe and it seems to me that the coupler would only serve to strengthen the pipe's longitudinal axis; besides that, the total length of the piece from threads to elbow will only be about 3". In my experience I'd be hard pressed to damage that setup unless excessive force was used. so what do you think?
Also, what is commonly used as bracing for the elbows in 2x4 walls? I will barely have a 1/2" of space between the ears on the elbow and the wall board. If I use the 1/2" sweat/sweat drop ear elbows, I can flip them over so that the ears are horizontal (on the bottom), and install a 2x4 brace between the studs (2" side up) directly under the elbow; the ears will end up centered on the 2" side of the 2x4 providing lots of material to fasten it to. Good?
I would really appreciate hearing your thoughts on this!
Thanks,
Matt
I'm re-modeling my master bath. I have all of my new valves and trim, and I'm working on roughing-in the Tub/Shower valve, and I have a few questions.
First off I need a bit of clarification on my installation instructions.
The rough-in instructions have this note:
"Use only 1/2″ pipe (galvanized steel) or 1/2″ (5/8″ OD) copper pipe (type
L or M) between the valve and bath spout. Using other materials may cause
backpressure and result in water flowing from the showerhead and bath spout at the same time."
So basically; use only "standard" metal plumbing and maintain at least 1/2" ID all the way from the valve to the spout.. but what if I use brass or bronze elbows? I believe that this note is intended to address restriction/flow rather than the actual metal that is being used...right?
There is also this:
"Locate the valve and install 1/2" piping and elbows to bath and shower outlets. Do not use multiple elbows on the spout outlet."
Is the "Spout Outlet" referring ONLY to the "Bath Outlet" and NOT the "Shower Outlet"? I can not seem to find the proper nomenclature for the parts of the "system" and I intend to use more than one elbow between the valve and the "Shower Outlet" because I need to plumb around a recessed shelf that is going in the shower wall.
Now on to the real questions.
The install instructions call for 1/2" sweat to 1/2" Female NPT drop ear elbows to be secured to bracing in the wall, and then threaded nipples are used to connect the "Bath Spout" and "Shower Head" to the elbows.
Can I instead use 1/2" sweat to 1/2" sweat drop ear elbows in the wall with a straight coupler attached to a copper 1/2" sweat to 1/2" Male NPT adapter protruding through the finished wall, and thread my Spout and shower head directly to it? My escutcheons will fit over the adapters.
The way I see it, this will eliminate one of the two threaded joints, and the most critical one at that; the one in the wall, and allow me to more easily meet the 1-1/4" protrusion of the fitting from the finished wall with out jerking around with nipples.
I personally think this is a better approach in general, however I am concerned about twisting the copper when threading on the spout and head.
I am using L-Type pipe and it seems to me that the coupler would only serve to strengthen the pipe's longitudinal axis; besides that, the total length of the piece from threads to elbow will only be about 3". In my experience I'd be hard pressed to damage that setup unless excessive force was used. so what do you think?
Also, what is commonly used as bracing for the elbows in 2x4 walls? I will barely have a 1/2" of space between the ears on the elbow and the wall board. If I use the 1/2" sweat/sweat drop ear elbows, I can flip them over so that the ears are horizontal (on the bottom), and install a 2x4 brace between the studs (2" side up) directly under the elbow; the ears will end up centered on the 2" side of the 2x4 providing lots of material to fasten it to. Good?
I would really appreciate hearing your thoughts on this!
Thanks,
Matt